additional 12v power needed

[rmojo]

I have a 1976 Venture popup that has a convertor that says that the covertor only can power the overhead lights no other assessories.  Has anyone ever used a computer power supply to power other assesories?  I need 12v for 2 fans, cellphone charger and additional lighting.  thanks!

[mike4947]

Instead of trying to cobb something up you'd be much better off updating the current converter to a modern one. IIRC your's is a 6 amp and a newer one could be 20/25/30 amps output.t might take a little work on the openig, but other than that it would be just unhooking the current wiring and replacing the converter in the panel. The new one comes with multiple 12 volt fused circuits to connect to.

[tlhdoc]

I agree with Mike, updating to a newer unit is the best way to go.

[rccs]

If you are thinking of gettin a new converter check out //www.bestconverter.com
I bought the 25 amp one from them this spring and installed it in my camper because all mine had was the 6 amp one also. The price they ask includes shipping and I recieved the converter just 2 days after I ordered it. The new converter is much better than the one my camper came with and I am glad I made the upgrade, it was well worth the money spent. Installation was fairly easy and took me about 2 hours. It probably would have taken less time to install but my converter is located in the rear of my camper across from the dinnette and there is only about 15 inches between the two to work in.

[AustinBoston]

I have a 1976 Venture popup that has a convertor that says that the covertor only can power the overhead lights no other assessories.  Has anyone ever used a computer power supply to power other assesories?  I need 12v for 2 fans, cellphone charger and additional lighting.  thanks!

One of the problems with using a computer power supply is that they don't supply a lot of 12V power.  The computer itself (and nearly all other circuitry) runs on 5V (or 3.3V for laptops and some newer PC's).  The 12V only runs things with motors (and then only the motor part) and possibly the sound card.

I agree with others; look into upgrading the converter.

Austin

[rmojo]

I think those convertors are too expensive.  You can get a power supply for a computer with 28A DC for less than $60 and you just wire the sockets to the +12 side and it does the same thing as the pop up convertor. see this

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=719596&CatId=1079

thanks

[tlhdoc]

It sounds like you didn't really want our advice, that you are set on buying the computer power supply.  

The converter suggested is a top of the line converter.  You don't have to spend that much to get a regular RV power converter, check on eBay.  You can get one for less then what the computer power supply cost and an RV converter is made to do the job you want it to do.  Good luck with what you decide.

[AustinBoston]

I think those convertors are too expensive.  You can get a power supply for a computer with 28A DC for less than $60 and you just wire the sockets to the +12 side and it does the same thing as the pop up convertor. see this

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=719596&CatId=1079

thanks

They end up being cheaper.  Why?  Because 12V in an RV isn't really 12V.  12.0 volts is a nearly dead battery.  And that's the performance this computer power supply will give you.

Check the specs on the RV converters.  Notice that they put out 13.6-14.4 volts?  That's because that's what "12V" devices actually expect for power.  If you used one of those in a computer, it would destroy it.  If you use the computer power supply to supply a 12V device (such as an inverter or 12V television) it would eventually toast the device.  It won't charge a battery at all.

Go ahead and buy the computer power supply, but you will end up buying the RV converter when your choice disappoints you.

Austin

[CAPEd CODger]

They end up being cheaper.  Why?  Because 12V in an RV isn't really 12V.  12.0 volts is a nearly dead battery.  And that's the performance this computer power supply will give you.

Check the specs on the RV converters.  Notice that they put out 13.6-14.4 volts?  That's because that's what "12V" devices actually expect for power.  If you used one of those in a computer, it would destroy it.  If you use the computer power supply to supply a 12V device (such as an inverter or 12V television) it would eventually toast the device.  It won't charge a battery at all.

Go ahead and buy the computer power supply, but you will end up buying the RV converter when your choice disappoints you.

Austin

Good point, Austin

All 12 volt systems are 12 volt nominal. Charging and "running" voltages are 13.8vdc.

If you are dead set against buying a "real camper converter", buy a power supply designed to run car accessories. Check into Astron or ICT for a suitable amperage.

Just my two cents.

Bob

[rmojo]

sorry guys I do want your advice.  I just know nothing about these convertors but I am very comfortable with computer PS.  The one in the PU is working fine,  if I get another one can I run two of them?  That would be nice to add a few more outlets and have 12v for the other things I need.  Is there a place to find out how to wire up something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CENTURION-3000-RV-110-V-12V-POWER-CONVERTER-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ50070QQitemZ4589540871QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

thanks for you help

[ForestCreature]

sorry guys I do want your advice. I just know nothing about these convertors but I am very comfortable with computer PS. The one in the PU is working fine, if I get another one can I run two of them? That would be nice to add a few more outlets and have 12v for the other things I need. Is there a place to find out how to wire up something like this:
 
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CENTURION-3000-RV-110-V-12V-POWER-CONVERTER-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ50070QQitemZ4589540871QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
 
 thanks for you help

 I'm don't know a whole lot about wiring up the converter, but I do know you don't really want that Centurion. That model has had issues. We had to repair ours twice so far in 5 yrs, practicaly rebuilt the whole thing. Plus it's a pretty bad battery charger, dosen't know when to stop charging and will fry a battery in 1 season. I believe they stopped making them. We added a cut off switch on the battery side so it cannot charge the battery when plugged in.

[tlhdoc]

The directions should come with the converter.

[AustinBoston]

Another option, if you don't mind doing a little rigging, might be a low-end battery charger.  It could be cheaper than both a converter and a computer PS.

One thing you never want to do is connect two power supplies together, unless they are specifically designed to run in parallel (very few are).  Most would last less than a few minutes under those circumstances.  So if you used two supplies, you would need to have them run separate 12V circuits.

As far as connecting, I replaced the power converter in our Bayside a few years ago.  In our setup, the converter was the heart of all electrical power in the whole pop-up.  There was a 30-amp, 120 volt feed from the power pole into the converter.  There was no 30-amp breaker, because there is suppoed to be one on the pole.  This fed into the "breaker panel," a small space on the front of the converter with room for two dual breakers (four circuits possible).  One dual breaker was supplied, one 15 amp and the other 20 amps.  The 20 amp breaker fed one outlet rated for 20 amps and intended for an air conditioner.  Everything else in the pop-up (refrigerator, converter, and two other outlets) ran off the one 15 amp breaker.  More about that later.

On the 12 volt side, there is also a "fuse box" section on the front of the converter.  All of the 12V circuits connected through this section, including the line to/from the battery.  The converter I put in actively monitors battery use, and charges the battery based on that use.  The only 12V circuit that does not go through there is the "charge line" from the tow vehicle, which has it's own charging mechanism (and therefore connects directly to the battery).

The holes for the two converters were the same size, so installing the new one was simply a matter of disconnecting and re-connecting all of the wires, then scewing it into place.

The whole process proably took about 2 hours, but I was being very maticulous (I insist on being that way with my wiring - it is always better than it has to be).

Since your existing unit is relatively small (power-wise), I'm guessing you will probably need to cut a larger hole.  You may need to find a different place altoghether.  In any case, it is also important to note that any power converter needs air to breathe.  If there is not sufficient clearance around the back, top, bottom, and sides, there is a risk of heat buildup, premature failure, and even fire.  Whatever unit you buy will specify what the clearances need to be.

Now I mentioned that there was room for two double breakers, but only one was installed.  The fortunate thing in my case is that the two converters used the same type of breakers, so I scavenged the breakers from the old unit and installed them in the new unit.  I wired the converter and refridgerator to the new 15 amp breaker (leaving the two 15-amp outlets on the old breaker).  I didn't wire anything to the new 20 amp breaker, because nothing else was rated to carry 20 amps.  But now the 15 amp outlets can actually supply 15 amps.

I don't know if this is very helpful, but if you have specific questions, I'd be glad to try to help.

Austin

[rmojo]

Does anyone have one of these convertors?

http://americandirect.ibuilder.com/a/americandirect/default.asp?SID=18J7T5PERQ13IN5S7894S&C=12&S=E3&Document=Over+30+amp+Converter+Product+Features&DesignNo=1&

I am new to all this and I need some advice from people that know about convertors.

thanks

Scott

[mike4947]

Here's one that used in all the Fleetwood PU's http://www.bestconverter.com/view_category.asp?cat=63