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Tent brace reinforcing

Started by wavery, Dec 08, 2005, 11:55 AM

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wavery

Does anyone have any suggestions for reinforcing the brace that holds the top of the tent out, over the bed?

Mine is a "J shaped thingy that you push the outer supt out with, then it goes into a bracket in the roof. It's a very thin aluminum tube and there isn't much strength in the curved portion of the "J". The curved part is actually a "U" shape where it goes down under the edge of the rooftop (I hope that makes sense :p ).

It just buckled in the wind last weekend. A new one is $50 and I will still have the same flimsy piece of aluminum tubing. Any suggestions for reinforcing that "U" portion of the "J" will be much appreciated.

AustinBoston

Quote from: waveryDoes anyone have any suggestions for reinforcing the brace that holds the top of the tent out, over the bed?



It just buckled in the wind last weekend.

What kind of wind?  Our Coleman/Fleetwood has been subjected to 35MPH winds on several occasions without a problem.

Austin

Old Goat

I have seen one made by an electrician using 3/4" metal electrical tubing [EMT] and bent to shape using a hand tubing bender. He used the undamaged pole for a pattern and to get the exact lenght...Installed the ends from the damaged pole and painted it white..Looks and works great......If you don't know how to bend tubing you can probably find an awning shop that can do it using aluminum or metal tubing.........

wavery

Old Goat,
Great suggestion on the electical conduit tubing. I might try that. I have a freind that is an electrician and he has a tubing bender.
Thanks :)

AustinBoston,
We had 50-60mph gusts. Not uncommon in the Point Mugu area after a cold front comes through. It would be relatively calm then..............WHAMM!!! :yikes: , like a freight train hit the camper. It would last 5-10 seconds then stop. I was a little concerned that it may have bent the top lifting supports and the top may not go down. That was OK though.

wavery

Quote from: Old GoatI have seen one made by an electrician using 3/4" metal electrical tubing [EMT] and bent to shape using a hand tubing bender. He used the undamaged pole for a pattern and to get the exact lenght...Installed the ends from the damaged pole and painted it white..Looks and works great......If you don't know how to bend tubing you can probably find an awning shop that can do it using aluminum or metal tubing.........



DONE!!!   :D

It works perfectly. I used 1" conduit and my friends tubing bender. I haven't painted it yet but it's bent exactly like the originals, the holes are drilled and I took the clip out of the old one. The entire project cost me $6 (for 2 of 'em).

Thanks again. Don't think I'll have that problem again but if I do, I have a spare. :D

tknick

I had to replace one of our tent supports because the curved part had collapsed, cracked and bent.  I ended up buying one from the dealer because I didn't even think about using the conduit.  The replacement one I got was noticeably thicker aluminun and doesn't seem likely to fail witout some serious abuse.  As for the conduit, I assume you don't have the length adjustment capablility.  If you do, how did you do that?

just my two cents....

travis

Old Goat

Once you have adjusted the pole to it's correct lenght it never needs to be changed....

wavery

Quote from: tknickI had to replace one of our tent supports because the curved part had collapsed, cracked and bent.  I ended up buying one from the dealer because I didn't even think about using the conduit.  The replacement one I got was noticeably thicker aluminun and doesn't seem likely to fail witout some serious abuse.  As for the conduit, I assume you don't have the length adjustment capablility.  If you do, how did you do that?

just my two cents....

travis
I replicated the original brace exactly. I even drilled the adjustment holes in the same places. The original extension pole slides right inside, just like it did before. However, I did cut the original brace and used it as a bushing inside of the conduit because the conduit was a slight bit larger.

Now, instead of the "J" brace being the weak link, the straight piece is the weak link and it is much easier to replace, if needed. I think the problem is solved though.

The big difference is, the conduit braces are considerably heavier but I don't see that as being a problem.