Roof Air

[rrduane]

I have an 1994 Jayco Eagle 8 with a roof/ heater air and I was wondering does anybody know what watt gerator is require to run this unit? Also do you kow the BESt Sealant to reseal the roof seam.

                                                          Thanks Rick

[tlhdoc]

Do you know how many BTUs the AC unit is.  Most are 13,500 btus and you will probably need 3,000 watt generator to run it.  Welcome to PUT!!!

[kjay]

I have an 1994 Jayco Eagle 8 with a roof/ heater air and I was wondering does anybody know what watt gerator is require to run this unit? Also do you kow the BESt Sealant to reseal the roof seam.

                                                          Thanks Rick

Welcom Rick:

Congrats on the Eagle 8.  If this is the unit that I think it is, I pray for your success in re-sealing the center seam!  

I have a Jay Series 1007 to which our dealer installed a roof air unit on when we purchased it a couple of years ago.  To make a long story short...roof air unit is TOO heavy for the lid that was on this 1997 unit.  Roof now has permanent sag of about 3 inches in the center seam and it is almost impossible for one person to stow the top portion of the door to the ceiling.  Additionally, several attempts have been made to re-seal the center seam...without success!  Now the water issues have nearly destroyed the lid.  The condensate from the air conditioner simply sits on the roof and seeps through the center seam...rotting out what support was there and causing mildew problems as well.

Cherio mate.

Ken

[drn1377]

Welcom Rick:

Congrats on the Eagle 8.  If this is the unit that I think it is, I pray for your success in re-sealing the center seam!  

I have a Jay Series 1007 to which our dealer installed a roof air unit on when we purchased it a couple of years ago.  To make a long story short...roof air unit is TOO heavy for the lid that was on this 1997 unit.  Roof now has permanent sag of about 3 inches in the center seam and it is almost impossible for one person to stow the top portion of the door to the ceiling.  Additionally, several attempts have been made to re-seal the center seam...without success!  Now the water issues have nearly destroyed the lid.  The condensate from the air conditioner simply sits on the roof and seeps through the center seam...rotting out what support was there and causing mildew problems as well.

Cherio mate.

Ken

I have one.

[drn1377]

I have one.

I have a fix for the sagging Jayco roof and it does not cost more than $10, nor can you see it when finished. E-mail me at drn1377@bellsouth.net and I will describe the entire thing to you, it worked great on my 95 Jayco 1207 after I experienced the same problem and never could find and answer, so I engineered one.
I tried to post this fix, but the site rejected it, maybe my explaination was too long?
Doug

[brainpause]

I have a fix for the sagging Jayco roof and it does not cost more than $10, nor can you see it when finished. E-mail me at drn1377@bellsouth.net and I will describe the entire thing to you, it worked great on my 95 Jayco 1207 after I experienced the same problem and never could find and answer, so I engineered one.
I tried to post this fix, but the site rejected it, maybe my explaination was too long?
Doug

Try it again. Not sure why it was rejected, except too long. When you type it, highlight it and Copy it, in case it is rejected. Then post it in the same thread, but two or three consecutive posts. (Sorta like Austin does on one of his trip reviews or stories .

Larry

[drn1377]

Ok,
   I'll try it again. The fix that I have come up with was as follows, I have a 1995 Jayco 1207 and after two years of fighting with the old sagging roof and no info available from anyone right up to and including the factory, I came up with this backyard engineering.

I removed the a/c unit and then removed the inside seam trim. I had already redone the exterior center seam and put it back together, making sure that the screws were good and tight. I realized that the inner trim was held in place by small (rusty) staples and that they had rusted to the point that they had caused visible chemical reaction to the aluminum that they were punched through. After removing all of them, I could stand inside and push the roof up in the center with ease. I noted that the aluminum that overlapped in the middle either slid together and overlapped more, or slid apart as I let the roof back down. The trick would be to hold the center of the roof up and now weight the roof corners and jack the roof down until the center was back into place with a slightly elevated pitch FROM the middle instead of TO the middle. I just used concrete blocks on the outside corners and two by fours inside cut to the proper length to hold the center up. Make sure that the boards are just off of center so that you can access the centerline of the camper You will need alot of 1/8" aluminum rivets, a rivet gun and a 1/8" drill bit with the drill. With the roof being held in place, drill the holes down the centerline about 1" apart from front to rear and rivet each hole, be careful not to drill too deep and punch out of the top of the camper roof. These rivets should be in such a location that they will be under the plastic trim that you will reinstall after this step, this will also ensure that you keep the holes and rivets at about the centerline to get the maximum grip from both pieces of aluminum. The idea is to keep the aluminum from pulling apart, which in turn gives the strength to the roof. I was able to walk across the roof with the a/c after this was complete with no sag and of course it diverts water away from the center seam too. I hope this helps, as I know that I am not the only one out there with this problem, I just can't believe that Jayco could not tell me how to overcome this.