help with flooring

[ColemanCampingFamily]

I need to replace the sub-flooring in our camper (not to mention the vinyl). What type of flooring should I get? I have been told that I should get marine grady plywood, but wanted some advice from those of you that have gone through this process.

There is really only one soft spot, so do I really need to replace the whole thing?

We are going to have a wonderful weekend here weather-wise, and I am having withdrawls and want to get "Patches" ready for her first trip...

Thanks!!

[wavery]

I need to replace the sub-flooring in our camper (not to mention the vinyl). What type of flooring should I get? I have been told that I should get marine grady plywood, but wanted some advice from those of you that have gone through this process.

There is really only one soft spot, so do I really need to replace the whole thing?

We are going to have a wonderful weekend here weather-wise, and I am having withdrawls and want to get "Patches" ready for her first trip...

Thanks!!

You do not necessarily need to replace the entire sub-floor.

It will take a little cutting to find out how far you need to go. The important thing is to get ALL of the damaged wood out. It's best to cut between frame members and replace an entire section, from one frame member to the next. Cut it so the the old and new piece covers about 1/2 of the frame width, meeting in the center of the frame member.

After cutting out the damaged flooring, it's a good idea to coat the cut edges of the old flooring with epoxy resin.

I don't think that marine plywood is necessary but it is certainly the best option IMO. A-C plywood would probably be quite sufficient and much less expensive. If it were me I would give it a good coat of a wood sealant and use epoxy on the end cut edges.

Make sure that you get the exact same thickness as the original flooring or you will have a terrible time with the joint.

[mike4947]

Partial replacement is definitely the best option for one main reason. The floor material extends under the sdie walls. To replace the entire floor means removing the entire box from the trailer frame/floor. I saw this first hand when one of my trailers had to go back to the factory to replace a floor that cracked due to the then acceptable and recommended practice of leveling with what are now called stabilzers, but then were called stabilzing jacks.

[tlhdoc]

what are now called stabilzers, but then were called stabilzing jacks.

They are still called stabilizing jacks.  I just purchased  new jacks and that is what BAL, the company that made them, calls them.
 
 
Yes you can just replace part of the floor.  What is the original flooring?  You will want to make sure what you use is the same thickness as the original flooring so that you don't have a hump where the old and the new meet.

[orangepridepopup]

Like you I am interested in replacing the vinyl that is currently in our "Dreamcather".  There is nothing wrong with the floor itself other than somewhat scuffed and stuff I just think that a different vinyl pattern would look better..so anyay I guess my question is what kind of vinyl should I use- can i use the stick and peel tiles from Home Depot or Lowe's or do I need something different and how do I remove the old vinyl?  Thanks in advance for the advice!!

[garym053]

I could be wrong, but I seem to recall that the vinyl isn't glued down to the plywood floor. Something about letting it breath or something! Anyway, probably someone else knows for sure, but the vinyl in my Jayco seems to be attached by means of the cabinets and trim being screwed down to the floor and not actually glued down.

[mike4947]

like the subfloor the vinyl goes under the walls as well. Common practice is to just put new down over old and use 1/4 round moulding around the perimeter. Peel & stick tiles tend to not like the extreme temperature ranges that it would see inside a PU and they will pop/curl over time.

[orangepridepopup]

Do you have any recommendations for what would be good to use if the stick and peel tiles won't make a good long term decision?

[wavery]

Do you have any recommendations for what would be good to use if the stick and peel tiles won't make a good long term decision?

They make different grades of that peel-n-stick tile. You can get them that are almost like ceramic tiles. I wouldn't think that they would be a problem. They sure won't turn up on the edges.

I think, if I were doing it, I would cut the old lino, around the edges and take it out first.

[ColemanCampingFamily]

I think, if I were doing it, I would cut the old lino, around the edges and take it out first.

That sounds like a good idea for replacing the vinyl. Now I have another question for all of you experts (be nice, I'm a woman who does more DIY stuff than my DH, who is absolutely useless when it comes to this stuff). What would happen if I just put a thin sheet of plywood over top of the existing flooring (leaving the old vinyl)? That way I wouldn't have to worry about tearing the whole camper apart in order to get rid of the old stuff or just replacing part of the floor and making sure it is level with the existing floor. Then I was thinking I could put new vinyl over that and use the 3/4" round that was suggested. Remember, my camper is old and we don't want to put too much into her, but would still like to get a few years use before we upgrade. And don't even get me into the patches we have had to put on the canvas!! She is truly starting to live up to her name!!!

[ColemanCampingFamily]

like the subfloor the vinyl goes under the walls as well. Common practice is to just put new down over old and use 1/4 round moulding around the perimeter. Peel & stick tiles tend to not like the extreme temperature ranges that it would see inside a PU and they will pop/curl over time.

Thanks for the advice...I almost bought some peel & stick vinyl this past weekend. I think I will just go to Lowe's or Home Depot and see if they have any "spare" cuts of vinyl that will fit.

______________________

DW - 69:U
DH - 67:!
DS - 00:Y

1986 Coleman Aspen AKA "Patches"
1999 Chevy Tracker

[wavery]

That sounds like a good idea for replacing the vinyl. Now I have another question for all of you experts (be nice, I'm a woman who does more DIY stuff than my DH, who is absolutely useless when it comes to this stuff). What would happen if I just put a thin sheet of plywood over top of the existing flooring (leaving the old vinyl)? That way I wouldn't have to worry about tearing the whole camper apart in order to get rid of the old stuff or just replacing part of the floor and making sure it is level with the existing floor. Then I was thinking I could put new vinyl over that and use the 3/4" round that was suggested. Remember, my camper is old and we don't want to put too much into her, but would still like to get a few years use before we upgrade. And don't even get me into the patches we have had to put on the canvas!! She is truly starting to live up to her name!!!

I don't see any need to adding more sub-flooring. The reason that I recommended taking out the old stuff was to not let the weight get out of control and keep from adding thickness to the floor.

[Jeremy]

Peel and sticks will work, just clean the original floor surface really well and make sure it's relatively warm outside (or maybe bring a space heater in the camper if it's still cool).  The heat will help the tiles stick better initially.
 
I did 12" peel & sticks myself on my '85.
 
before:

 
 
After:

 
Made a world of difference in lightening up the inside (that and the painted cabinets help too).

[ColemanCampingFamily]

Peel and sticks will work, just clean the original floor surface really well and make sure it's relatively warm outside (or maybe bring a space heater in the camper if it's still cool).  The heat will help the tiles stick better initially.
 

 
Made a world of difference in lightening up the inside (that and the painted cabinets help too).

Thanks for the advice. I ended up going with the peel & stick because it was CHEAP, and you seemed to have a good experience with it. As for the floor, my DH came home from work on Sunday to find me inside the camper ripping up the old floor. He got the bug and decided to go out and buy a reciprocating saw so that we could fix her right. We managed to get all of the bad flooring out (and then some), but haven't put the new flooring in yet because it was getting dark. Never fear, we placed the uncut new piece over the hole so no critters could invade!! I also managed to fix all of the holes in the tenting. I bought this "no sew" adhesive, then used "vinyl repair" around the edges. Worked like a charm!! As soon as the floor is in I will share some pics of our work on "Patches". We can't wait to take her out on her "first" trip (April 22nd).

__________________
DW - 69  :#
DH - 67  :!
SH - 00  :Y

1985 Coleman Aspen - AKA "Patches"

[wavery]

As for the floor, my DH came home from work on Sunday to find me inside the camper ripping up the old floor. He got the bug and decided to go out and buy a reciprocating saw so that we could fix her right. We managed to get all of the bad flooring out (and then some), but haven't put the new flooring in yet because it was getting dark.

That's great. I think that you will be very happy that you got the bad flooring out. Leaving rotting wood in the floor is a recipe for disaster on many levels, including health.

Try to make sure that all of you joints are made in the middle of a frame member for the correct support. In the areas that it is not possible to join over a frame member, you might want to put a 2x4 under the joint and screw both sides of the joint to the 2x4 (from the top down) for added support. I would pre-drill it and use 1 1/2" drywall screws. They are easy to run in with a power screw driver (or drill with a phillips attachment) and they are strong. I would run the 2x4 tight in between 2 frame members.