Replacing tongue jack ~ help!

[Kelly]

The tongue jack on my PU needs to be replaced.  Right now it has an Atwood topwind 1000 lb capacity jack.  I would like to replace it with a BAL topwind ~ either 1000 lb or 2000 lb capacity.  I know if I go with the bigger BAL that I will have to replace the wheel as well.  

What I really need to know is ...
both jacks have a triangular mounting plate ~ are the bolt holes in the same place on both mounts?  In other words ~ can I just remove the old one and install the new without having to drill out new holes?


Comments, ideas and suggestions greatly appreciated!  [/FONT]

[wavery]

I would be willing to bet that the bolt patterns are the same. However, I would recommend contacting the manuf for the bolt hole dimensions. I notice that they are not are their dimension chart.

I'm just curious why you are thinking of going to a 2000# jack. IMHO a 1000# jack is over-kill. You have dual axles on that trailer, don't you? I just couldn't imagine a circumstances where you might even have 500# in tongue weight.

The other thing is, you don't have to stick with the center mount jack. The side mount jacks work quite well and there are some available with a large inflated tire that make it easier to roll the trailer around by hand.

[Kelly]

I would be willing to bet that the bolt patterns are the same. However, I would recommend contacting the manuf for the bolt hole dimensions. I notice that they are not are their dimension chart.

I'm just curious why you are thinking of going to a 2000# jack. IMHO a 1000# jack is over-kill. You have dual axles on that trailer, don't you? I just couldn't imagine a circumstances where you might even have 500# in tongue weight.

The other thing is, you don't have to stick with the center mount jack. The side mount jacks work quite well and there are some available with a large inflated tire that make it easier to roll the trailer around by hand.

Good point on calling the manufacturers ...

As far as the 2000# vs 1000# ~ just exploring options at this point.  Single axle on the trailer and you're right 1000# is probably enough.

When you say side mount ~ I assume you mean a swing down jack.  Hadn't really considered that ~ had one on the old trailer and liked it just fine.  I was under the impression looking at the tongue that it might be a tight fit ~ but in looking at pics from the previous owner I see that there was one mounted on it!  hmmmmmmmm .... wonder if it's on her new-to-her PU.  

Guess I just keep gathering info for now!

[brgmgb]

I just purchased a replacement.  On mine, the bolt holes are very elongated to account for slight differences.

I was planning to purchase a swing-down jack, but I could not find a place to mount it that would not block the bed support pole slot.

I have not yet replaced the jack with the new one because the bolts are very rusted.  I have been spraying and need to move the boat so I can use the air tools.

Bill

[AustinBoston]

I just purchased a replacement.  On mine, the bolt holes are very elongated to account for slight differences.

...

I have not yet replaced the jack with the new one because the bolts are very rusted.

Try PB Blaster.  I would never have imagined anythng able to work so well until I tried it.  at least 10, and perhaps 30, times as good as WD-40 for loosening stuck/rusted bolts.

Austin

[zamboni]

I replaced the default hand-crank on my Jayco hybrid with an electric one from camping world.

The new one also had elongated holes.  The downside was it meant that not enough of the bolt "caught" on the new crank base.

So, I bought new, longer bolts (same thread) from Home Depot, along with several large washers.  Put them on, then bolted it to the frame.  Also, went ahead and stuck another washer, locknut and nut on the bottom of the bolt where it came throught the threaded frame... only because the new bolts were long enough and the extra 3 nuts/washers came to under $1

[Kelly]

I replaced the default hand-crank on my Jayco hybrid with an electric one from camping world.

The new one also had elongated holes.  The downside was it meant that not enough of the bolt "caught" on the new crank base.

So, I bought new, longer bolts (same thread) from Home Depot, along with several large washers.  Put them on, then bolted it to the frame.  Also, went ahead and stuck another washer, locknut and nut on the bottom of the bolt where it came throught the threaded frame... only because the new bolts were long enough and the extra 3 nuts/washers came to under $1

Thanks ~ this helps a lot.  Do you suppose all Jayco frames are threaded the same?  Do you remember what size bolts you used?

I'm going to replace the Atwood with a BAL and call it a day!  

[zamboni]

Do you suppose all Jayco frames are threaded the same?  Do you remember what size bolts you used?

I would presume they're all threaded the same -- but I don't remember what size.  I took the bolt off mine, took it to HD, and screwed it into the different holes in their "identifier template" until I found the one it matched.  I recall it was a bolt in the stack of drawers to the right of all the bins of regular screws.  The "M-something" (metric).

[Kelly]

Thanks ~ this helps a lot.  Do you suppose all Jayco frames are threaded the same?  Do you remember what size bolts you used?

I'm going to replace the Atwood with a BAL and call it a day!  

I lied.   :p

Turns out I replaced the old Atwood with a new Atwood ... and thought I was all done.  Nope. The old wheel didn't fit the new jack so I went back for a new wheel.  Now I have a brand spanking new (1000 lb) tongue jack and a brand spanking new wheel.  

The frame was threaded the same and after several liberal applications of WD-40 the old bolts came out quite easily.  Don'tcha just love it when things go well?  

[wavery]

I lied.   :p

Turns out I replaced the old Atwood with a new Atwood ... and thought I was all done.  Nope. The old wheel didn't fit the new jack so I went back for a new wheel.  Now I have a brand spanking new (1000 lb) tongue jack and a brand spanking new wheel.  

The frame was threaded the same and after several liberal applications of WD-40 the old bolts came out quite easily.  Don'tcha just love it when things go well?  

That's great...All's well that end's well.............Who said that? :p

BTW....just a tip on using rust penetrants. Before applying the penetrant, tap the nut or bolt lightly with a small hammer, apply the penetrant, then tap it again. This will help distribute the penetrant and loosen the corrosion. This is especially helpful on aluminum and/or stainless steel.

[tlhdoc]

The frame was threaded the same and after several liberal applications of WD-40 the old bolts came out quite easily. Don'tcha just love it when things go well?

I know how you feel.  I replaced the crank down jacks on my PU this winter and I was very worried about the new and the old having the same bolt pattern.  They did and with the help of WD-40 the old nuts came right off.

[brgmgb]

I just purchased a replacement.  On mine, the bolt holes are very elongated to account for slight differences.

I was planning to purchase a swing-down jack, but I could not find a place to mount it that would not block the bed support pole slot.

I have not yet replaced the jack with the new one because the bolts are very rusted.  I have been spraying and need to move the boat so I can use the air tools.

Bill

It was a nice day last Saturday, so I finally tackled this job.  One of the rear bolts snapped, but I thought I could just drill it out.  However, the jack I purchased was too big in diameter to fit in the hole the old one came out of.  I returned the jack and purchased a smaller swing-down that did not block the support pole slot.  We are very happy with the new jack and really like how it does swing out of the way.  It makes for much easier and faster times on and off the ball.