Painting Help

[o2jmpr]

Hi All!,

     Just purchased a '76 Coleman Valley Forge.  The unit is in good shape except for the canvas (getting replaced) and there are a handful of dime sized minor surface rust spots.  I want to paint the lower half of the unit but need some help.
 
     Can anyone tell me what material it is?  I know aluminum doesn't rust and steel does, but I don't know if it's ALL steel.  I was leaning towards using Rustoleum clean metal primer (after prepping of course) and their plain old "stops rust" paint in Gloss with a clearcoat.  Is there any reason this would not be a good idea?

     I think my only other option is get some real auto paint, but, I was hoping to avoid the much higher cost and trouble if I can acheive good results with Rustoleum.

    Please post up if you have any experience.  Thanks for your help everyone!!

    Happy Campin'

[tlhdoc]

Welcome to PUT!

I have not painted my PU, but I would think that would be fine to do.  In a PU that age I wouldn't want to put the $$$ into a professional paint job.   I would tape and paper everything that you don't want paint to go on and then go to it.  I would think that the side panels would be steel from that time.  Good luck and take some before and after photos if you can.  I love to look at older trailers being brought back to life.

[batsignal2]

Hello,

If it is a steel body, your system will work.  If it is part aluminum (or in places), the primer will probably work there also by now.  They don't recommend painting aluminum right away with regular paint because of the curing process aluminum goes through while aging.  However, after 25+ years, you should be OK.  May want to try a test spot if unsure.

I know from my years at Sherwin Williams, they have several options other than Rustoleum products.  You are looking at a two part system (primer and top coat).  They have several products can go over directly over steel and rust without a primer.  The one off the top of my head is called Industrial Enamel.  Those types of coatings have special bonding agents to stop rust and to bind the top coat to the metal at the same time.  The cost was in the $40 per gallon range.  I bought some and painted the lower frame of our pop-up a few years ago and it worked fine.  Obviously, you want to sand lose rust first.

Good Luck in your paint project!

[o2jmpr]

Thanks for the response.  Yeah, I guess I'm just too uptight, considering  it's age, it's nothing to sweat over.  I think I'll get me some paint and get to it!!  Maybe in the next week or two (weather pending) I'll have some pics.  Got a few other small things to do and the canvas won't be here for a while so I guess I'll have a go!

[CAPEd CODger]

If you're not sure if it's steel or aluminum, use a magnet to find out. Magnets stick to steel, but not to aluminum.

Cheryl and I had a '76 Valley Forge. We purchased it around '91. We got many years of service out of it.

Best of luck to you.

Happy Camping!

[o2jmpr]

Thanks to everyone!  I took the plunge today and assembled the painting items.  I'm going to use Rustoleum Clean metal primer and gloss sand.  Hopefully this weekend we'll have a newer looking camper!  I appreciate the responses.

[o2jmpr]

Update:  Got the 'ol Valley Forge sanded and masked.  I'm gonna paint tomorrow. Will post some pics afterward.  I also decided to add a clearcoat when done.  That is major overkill but, I figure this will be a good project to try it out on. The canvas should arrive later next week so I gotta hurry!

[astrowolf67]

As long as you follow the instructions on the paint for prep, drying, and recoat times, you should be ok.  And, from past experiences, don't mix brands or types.  I would let the final color coat cure for a good time, then lightly wet sand with 600 grit or higher before clear coating.  And, if you need to know if the paint is cured or not, smell it.  If it still smells, it isn't cured.  Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!

David

[o2jmpr]

I'll have pics when it's done and after I get the lights and utilities re-installed.  

[DGrant09]

Are you planning on using a spray gun or cans??   I too would like to re-do the lower half but am skeptical on my spray can abilities..

[Old Goat]

As long as you follow the instructions on the paint for prep, drying, and recoat times, you should be ok.  And, from past experiences, don't mix brands or types.  I would let the final color coat cure for a good time, then lightly wet sand with 600 grit or higher before clear coating.  And, if you need to know if the paint is cured or not, smell it.  If it still smells, it isn't cured.  Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!

David

The paint I have used has a urethane base and  directions say to apply clear coat, if using, with in 30 minutes after spraying, no sanding recommended..Clear coat then bonds with urethane for a very smooth no peel finish....... I have also used this paint on projects without clear coat and it holds up long and well...I applied this on a new wood [oak] bumper that I made for my Niagara. Used urethane varnish for a sealer-primer, sanded and then applied two coats of black without clear coat and after five years it still looks new with no cracks or peeling.......

[o2jmpr]

Painting is finished!   Turned out pretty well except for a few light streaks that I need to touch up.  It was my fault for not having enough light in the shop to be able to tell exactly how the coverage was going.  No troubles using spray paint, just takes a little longer due to the narrow pattern  (my index finger is still kinda numb).  I did use the Rustoleum clean metal primer (4 cans) then Rustoleum Sand color enamel. The Girlfriend thought it was too dark of a color so we painted the whole darn thing then repainted again with Almond color.  Then clear coat.  Only allowed a few minutes dry time inbetween.  I would not have changed a thing regarding using Rustoleum.  The only other issue we ran into was after peeling the pinstriping off.  I used a heat gun which took the graphics and paint off with it for the most part however, there were spots where some adhesive was left behind and it is a bugger to get off!!!  Used Brakleen and Goo Gone but still had a hard time.  Then of course you have to re-sand.  Anyway, a little touch up in about 4 spots and we are set!!!