Socket jeanie

[cdavis]

We are having trouble making the socket work on our Viking Legend. I noticed about using the drill with the right power. Dewalt 18 Volt drill. This drill has 2 settings 1 or 2 . Is that where the torque and speed are set? Do you use it with the drill setting or a number from 1-17 as the setting. We Have changed drills twice trying to find the correct one. HELP!!!!! My husband is ready to throw it in the trash. Thanks in advance for the help. : :confused:

[tknick]

We are having trouble making the socket work on our Viking Legend. I noticed about using the drill with the right power. Dewalt 18 Volt drill. This drill has 2 settings 1 or 2 . Is that where the torque and speed are set? Do you use it with the drill setting or a number from 1-17 as the setting. We Have changed drills twice trying to find the correct one. HELP!!!!! My husband is ready to throw it in the trash. Thanks in advance for the help. : :confused:

I don't have the DeWalt, but on an older Craftsman drill/driver I had, there was a switch for high speed and low speed (possibly your 1 and 2 settings).  As for the 1-17 I'm guessing that is the torque setting.  If you have that set too low, the clutch in the drill will activate and the socket jeanie will not turn (It is designed to help prevent stripping of screws as the screw tightens down).  You should hear a clicking sound when the clutch activates.  If you have the torque set too high, when you get the camper to the top, it will continue to try to turn the lifting mechanism and it could break a cable or some other part.  

Again, this is a suggestion only since I do not have the DeWalt, but I would use the high speed at first and switch to the 2 (low speed) as you get towards the top.  With the clutch/torque settings, start at the 1 setting and keep turning the clutch up until you reach a number where the clutch does not activate.  Keep in mind as you get towards the top and the going gets a little tougher, you will need to adjust the torque accordingly.  You should only have to do this once because when you find the proper setting you can set it an forget it as Ron Popiel likes to say.  Be careful as you approach full roof height.  Most people suggest doing the last few cranks by hand just to be safe.  If you are using the jeanie on your stabilizer jacks there really isn't much to worry about there.  They should be all steel and the chance of you overtightening those is pretty small.  That being said, use your common sense.  As with raising the roof, you may want to use the jeanie only to get the jacks on the ground and use the hand crank for actual leveling.

hope this helps

[cdavis]

I don't have the DeWalt, but on an older Craftsman drill/driver I had, there was a switch for high speed and low speed (possibly your 1 and 2 settings).  As for the 1-17 I'm guessing that is the torque setting.  If you have that set too low, the clutch in the drill will activate and the socket jeanie will not turn (It is designed to help prevent stripping of screws as the screw tightens down).  You should hear a clicking sound when the clutch activates.  If you have the torque set too high, when you get the camper to the top, it will continue to try to turn the lifting mechanism and it could break a cable or some other part.  

Again, this is a suggestion only since I do not have the DeWalt, but I would use the high speed at first and switch to the 2 (low speed) as you get towards the top.  With the clutch/torque settings, start at the 1 setting and keep turning the clutch up until you reach a number where the clutch does not activate.  Keep in mind as you get towards the top and the going gets a little tougher, you will need to adjust the torque accordingly.  You should only have to do this once because when you find the proper setting you can set it an forget it as Ron Popiel likes to say.  Be careful as you approach full roof height.  Most people suggest doing the last few cranks by hand just to be safe.  If you are using the jeanie on your stabilizer jacks there really isn't much to worry about there.  They should be all steel and the chance of you overtightening those is pretty small.  That being said, use your common sense.  As with raising the roof, you may want to use the jeanie only to get the jacks on the ground and use the hand crank for actual leveling.

hope this helps

Thanks alot, will show this to my husband and will have a chance to try it Mother's Day weekend.  

[Gone-Camping]

Like the above post, I'm not sure which setting is which for the DeWalt (although I used to own a 24v one) However, to determine whether you set it on 1 or 2 is easy enough, one setting makes the drill turn faster than the other setting. You want to set it so that it turns SLOWLY...we're trying to crank the top up not drill a hole!

As for the clucth settings, I'd set that thing to it's strongest setting, then click back one notch... On it's strongest setting the clutch shoudn't engage, and by going back one you should be able to put maximum torque into the lifting process without the clutch going into slip mode halfway up. If you do run into this even one notch back, they you might have to lock the clutch in all the way! If you do that, be real careful as you near the top of the run...you don't want to shear anything...nor do you want that drill to torque it's way out of your hand....you could wind up with a sprained or twisted wrist if it does that!!

[b2220128]

Always use the drill on the slowest setting when raising the roof, that is where the drill will produce the most torque.  The fast setting is for use with drill bits.  You can play around with the clutch to find the smallest number that will still raise the roof so you will have some protection damage from over raising the roof.  The locked position on the clutch is for using drill bits, only use it if you have to.  As the top gets close to the fully open position, slowing the drill down will make it easier to stop at the right place.  These drills can put some torque stress on the arms so I sometimes put a foot on the bumper and let the drill turn against my leg.  You also need to be cautious of over turning when closing the top.  That can damage the lift system as well.  Once you get the top started down, you can significantly lower the clutch torque setting and when the top is almost closed go very slow with the drill.

[cdavis]

Like the above post, I'm not sure which setting is which for the DeWalt (although I used to own a 24v one) However, to determine whether you set it on 1 or 2 is easy enough, one setting makes the drill turn faster than the other setting. You want to set it so that it turns SLOWLY...we're trying to crank the top up not drill a hole!

As for the clucth settings, I'd set that thing to it's strongest setting, then click back one notch... On it's strongest setting the clutch shoudn't engage, and by going back one you should be able to put maximum torque into the lifting process without the clutch going into slip mode halfway up. If you do run into this even one notch back, they you might have to lock the clutch in all the way! If you do that, be real careful as you near the top of the run...you don't want to shear anything...nor do you want that drill to torque it's way out of your hand....you could wind up with a sprained or twisted wrist if it does that!!

Thanks for your reply, My husband and I are ready to give it a try.

[cdavis]

Like the above post, I'm not sure which setting is which for the DeWalt (although I used to own a 24v one) However, to determine whether you set it on 1 or 2 is easy enough, one setting makes the drill turn faster than the other setting. You want to set it so that it turns SLOWLY...we're trying to crank the top up not drill a hole!

As for the clucth settings, I'd set that thing to it's strongest setting, then click back one notch... On it's strongest setting the clutch shoudn't engage, and by going back one you should be able to put maximum torque into the lifting process without the clutch going into slip mode halfway up. If you do run into this even one notch back, they you might have to lock the clutch in all the way! If you do that, be real careful as you near the top of the run...you don't want to shear anything...nor do you want that drill to torque it's way out of your hand....you could wind up with a sprained or twisted wrist if it does that!!

Thanks sounds like it should work
 

[cdavis]

Always use the drill on the slowest setting when raising the roof, that is where the drill will produce the most torque.  The fast setting is for use with drill bits.  You can play around with the clutch to find the smallest number that will still raise the roof so you will have some protection damage from over raising the roof.  The locked position on the clutch is for using drill bits, only use it if you have to.  As the top gets close to the fully open position, slowing the drill down will make it easier to stop at the right place.  These drills can put some torque stress on the arms so I sometimes put a foot on the bumper and let the drill turn against my leg.  You also need to be cautious of over turning when closing the top.  That can damage the lift system as well.  Once you get the top started down, you can significantly lower the clutch torque setting and when the top is almost closed go very slow with the drill.

Thanks for all the help..
 

[sandykayak]

So THAT's why I've been having trouble.  Will print and read these tips carefully.

No what's the name of the doohickey I need to hold the drill steady?  Do I just go to Home Depot?

The only way I've been able to do it is by using my knee to stop it from spinning.

[tlhdoc]

No what's the name of the doohickey I need to hold the drill steady? Do I just go to Home Depot?

I am guessing that you are talking about the torque handle.