Question about electric service

[movein69]

Also get yourself some sort of voltage checker. An air conditioner run on reduced voltage can self destruct. Figure 110 volts as an ABSOLUTE minimum.

Isn't the typical outlet 110V or 120V? Just curious why I would need a voltage checker if this was the case.

[wavery]

Well - under one of my seat is where the water tank is. The A/C has a black cord coming down the wall going under the seat (a piece of the wood is cut out to allow for this)... The black cord runs into this white box that has a label on it saying this box is for the a/c unit only. Then another white cord comes out of this box and connects to the converter. When we lower or raise the PUP it doesn't matter because all the wiring is under the seat. Under this same seat is where the shore line electrical plug is stored as well.

OK....I got that part. What I am wondering is how the wiring is routed to the roof. Is it out in the open or do they run it inside of one of the lift supports? Either way seems rather hazardous to me. I'm just curious :confused: .

The outlets are 110v-120v. It is good to have a volt meter along to check the actual voltage that you are getting from the CG service. Some CGs do not have enough service to meet the high demand of a lot of AC units running on a hot day. Therefore, if the demand exceeds the supply, the result is lower voltage to everyone. If you check the voltage and it reads below 110v, your AC compressor won't have enough power to work properly and will have to struggle to start. This often results in shorter compressor life. IMO, you really don't start getting in trouble until it drops below 105v.

[movein69]

OK....I got that part. What I am wondering is how the wiring is routed to the roof. Is it out in the open or do they run it inside of one of the lift supports? Either way seems rather hazardous to me. I'm just curious :confused: .

The outlets are 110v-120v. It is good to have a volt meter along to check the actual voltage that you are getting from the CG service. Some CGs do not have enough service to meet the high demand of a lot of AC units running on a hot day. Therefore, if the demand exceeds the supply, the result is lower voltage to everyone. If you check the voltage and it reads below 110v, your AC compressor won't have enough power to work properly and will have to struggle to start. This often results in shorter compressor life. IMO, you really don't start getting in trouble until it drops below 105v.

Gotcha on the outlets. Now on your question, the cord from the A/C is under a piece of strip that is glued on to the roof, so it cannot move. It goes from the center of the ac to one of the sides. Then the cord from the top side does just fall down towards the seat, but the curtains and stuff keeps it from being in the way. It goes nowhere near the lift supports. Our lift supports are on the outside of the tent portion. We can't even see them inside.

By the way, you said you unplug your ac before putting down, where do you put the cord? I would think your way of doing it could eventually hurt the cord more. I guess what I don't understand is why you think it would be unsafe.

Now, what I also don't know is if our 2003 PUP was factory installed this way or if the people we bought it from did this. We have the books, but that doesn't mean anything.

I got a new question but I will make another thread.

[wavery]

Gotcha on the outlets. Now on your question, the cord from the A/C is under a piece of strip that is glued on to the roof, so it cannot move. It goes from the center of the ac to one of the sides. Then the cord from the top side does just fall down towards the seat, but the curtains and stuff keeps it from being in the way. It goes nowhere near the lift supports. Our lift supports are on the outside of the tent portion. We can't even see them inside.

By the way, you said you unplug your ac before putting down, where do you put the cord? I would think your way of doing it could eventually hurt the cord more. I guess what I don't understand is why you think it would be unsafe.

Now, what I also don't know is if our 2003 PUP was factory installed this way or if the people we bought it from did this. We have the books, but that doesn't mean anything.

I got a new question but I will make another thread.

On my AC the cord runs from the AC unit, through the roof brace. It comes out at the side of the roof. It is bundled up and retained with a Velcro wrap. When we want to use the AC, we undo the Velcro wrap and extend the cord straight down to an outlet that is specially designed for the AC only.

The only thing that seems a little hazardous to me is that a permanently wired cord could have the possibility of hanging up on something while lifting or getting pinched or cut by something while lowering or towing. Maybe I am just not understanding how it is routed. It seems what you are describing is that it just sorta hangs out there. Maybe I'm picturing it wrong :p .

On my PU, I prefer it being on a cord. That way, I can plug it directly into my Honda EU2000I generator and it works OK (just barely). When I run it through the camper wiring, all of the additional connections, circuit breaker and converter add just enough resistance that my AC won't run properly from my generator power.

[movein69]

On my AC the cord runs from the AC unit, through the roof brace. It comes out at the side of the roof. It is bundled up and retained with a Velcro wrap. When we want to use the AC, we undo the Velcro wrap and extend the cord straight down to an outlet that is specially designed for the AC only.

The only thing that seems a little hazardous to me is that a permanently wired cord could have the possibility of hanging up on something while lifting or getting pinched or cut by something while lowering or towing. Maybe I am just not understanding how it is routed. It seems what you are describing is that it just sorta hangs out there. Maybe I'm picturing it wrong :p .

On my PU, I prefer it being on a cord. That way, I can plug it directly into my Honda EU2000I generator and it works OK (just barely). When I run it through the camper wiring, all of the additional connections, circuit breaker and converter add just enough resistance that my AC won't run properly from my generator power.

I see. Other than the "something else you gotta do" portion of it, I too would rather it be a plug in I guess. Especially in the situation I will be in Then I could decide what to do. But it isn't, so I have to deal with it. The cord is a THICK and HEAVY black cord (almost like the shoreline one). It is so heavy that it doesn't move easily. It only comes down from the side. I guess you'd have to see it and experience it to realize it never even crossed my mind as it being hazardous. Nothing inside the PUP could hurt it. The only thing that could happen (although remote) is it getting stuck between the roof and bottom when lowering.

[wavery]

I see. Other than the "something else you gotta do" portion of it, I too would rather it be a plug in I guess. Especially in the situation I will be in Then I could decide what to do. But it isn't, so I have to deal with it. The cord is a THICK and HEAVY black cord (almost like the shoreline one). It is so heavy that it doesn't move easily. It only comes down from the side. I guess you'd have to see it and experience it to realize it never even crossed my mind as it being hazardous. Nothing inside the PUP could hurt it. The only thing that could happen (although remote) is it getting stuck between the roof and bottom when lowering.

When I say, "Hazardous", please don't get me wrong. I don't mean hazardous to humans in any way :p . I was just thinking of the hazards that the cord itself may encounter .

Ya, I guess if the cord is as heavy as the shoreline cord to the PU, it must just bend in half and find it's way to the same spot each time. I guess that I was thinking of a lighter cord that might tangle in something or get crushed in the roof. Thanks for explaining .

I use the AC so rarely, that my cord really isn't on the "To-do list" :p . In fact, I sometimes wonder why I have it at all. If it wasn't such a pain to remove, I would take it off in October and reinstall it the following May. Maybe I'll find out why I have it when we go to Yosemite at the end of June.

[movein69]

When I say, "Hazardous", please don't get me wrong. I don't mean hazardous to humans in any way :p . I was just thinking of the hazards that the cord itself may encounter .

Ya, I guess if the cord is as heavy as the shoreline cord to the PU, it must just bend in half and find it's way to the same spot each time. I guess that I was thinking of a lighter cord that might tangle in something or get crushed in the roof. Thanks for explaining .

I use the AC so rarely, that my cord really isn't on the "To-do list" :p . In fact, I sometimes wonder why I have it at all. If it wasn't such a pain to remove, I would take it off in October and reinstall it the following May. Maybe I'll find out why I have it when we go to Yosemite at the end of June.

Well not sure how CA weather is, but I am on the opposite side of the country and in the south. Here the weather gets extremely hot in the summer, so an A/C is a must.

[AustinBoston]

I am not an electrician, but my guess is that you run the AC wires to the 20 amp circuit on the power converter and there you have it.  A hard wired AC unit.  You plug the AC unit into the 20 amp outlet, so I don't see why it would be more dangerous.

I think the issue becomes "what happens when it's popped down?"

Can the wires get pinched (probably), or the AC be come powered up (possibly)?

Otherwise, it wouldn't be a problem.

UPS's and other battery backups notwithstanding, pulling the plug is the ultimate "off" switch.

Austin

[tlhdoc]

Well - under one of my seat is where the water tank is. The A/C has a black cord coming down the wall going under the seat (a piece of the wood is cut out to allow for this)... The black cord runs into this white box that has a label on it saying this box is for the a/c unit only. Then another white cord comes out of this box and connects to the converter. When we lower or raise the PUP it doesn't matter because all the wiring is under the seat. Under this same seat is where the shore line electrical plug is stored as well.

A friend of mine also has a PU that has the AC unit hard wired.  They have never had a problem with it.  I don't think you have anything to worry about.  
 
Before I had to get a replacement roof for my PU, I used to leave my AC cord plugged in all of the time.  I can't do it now, because the great minds at Fleetwood moved the location for the AC unit behind the axel (it takes weight off of the tongue) in my new roof.  On my old roof the AC was located above the axel and my cord was able to reach the 20 amp outlet.  A friend of mine leaves their AC cord plugged in all of the time too.  My wire would go from the AC unit, down between the pushed in bunkends to the 20 amp outlet located near the converter (under a dinette seat).  For those of you that think wiring going between the roof and the box is dangerous, keep in mind that there are 12 volt wires doing that on all of the campers that have ceiling lights in them.  I know they are only 12 volt and not a 110 line, BUT they are a much lighter wire than my AC cord is.  I haven't had a 12 volt wire damaged yet and never had a problem with my AC cord being damaged or hanging up during the popup or tearing down of the camper.  
 
Just because it is done different, doesn't mean that it is wrong or dangerous!!!
 

 
PS: Austin the only time my camper is plugged into an outlet is when we are camping, so I don't have any fear of the AC coming on when the camper is popped down.  If I am precooling the fridge I use an extension cord.

[HersheyGirl]

My a/c cord is plugged in at all times too.  The cord comes from the a/c, is supported by ceiling hookie things, and runs across by the center brace, then down a fabric sleeve along with  12 volt lines, then down by the dinnett seat and then into the outlet.  My Jayco was the same way.  Never had any problem what so ever with the cord in either one of the campers.  My sisters a/c is hardwired and she has never had any problems either.  Just goes to show you that you can do  things differently and still have the same results.

[movein69]

My a/c cord is plugged in at all times too.  The cord comes from the a/c, is supported by ceiling hookie things, and runs across by the center brace, then down a fabric sleeve along with  12 volt lines, then down by the dinnett seat and then into the outlet.  My Jayco was the same way.  Never had any problem what so ever with the cord in either one of the campers.  My sisters a/c is hardwired and she has never had any problems either.  Just goes to show you that you can do  things differently and still have the same results.

One comment - I said in an earilier post I had a suburban A/C... that is WRONG - I have a suburban furnace and an Air V A/C. I felt I needed to correct that.

[tlhdoc]

One comment - I said in an earilier post I had a suburban A/C... that is WRONG - I have a suburban furnace and an Air V A/C. I felt I needed to correct that.

The Carrier Air V is the same AC unit that I have.  Did you get yours with the heat option?  I have used the heat on more trips than I have the cooling side of the AC unit.

[movein69]

The Carrier Air V is the same AC unit that I have.  Did you get yours with the heat option?  I have used the heat on more trips than I have the cooling side of the AC unit.

Unfortunately mine only has fan and a/c. We have the furnace, but I brougt a small electric heater last trip. Good thing because it got cold here in the south so we had to use it.

[zamboni]

Unfortunately mine only has fan and a/c. We have the furnace, but I brougt a small electric heater last trip. Good thing because it got cold here in the south so we had to use it.

You can purchase "heat strips" to add into your AC unit.  I put some on mine this past Feb, and it was a great upgrade ($70 from Camping World)-- the heater on the floor/table was such a tempting thing for the baby to play with.  Plus, that did not "push" the heat out into the bunks like the AC unit can.  The heat strips came with a new control dial that has "low heatheat" (my previous dial had 2 "low fan" settings, so it replaced one).

There are those that dislike heat strips, saying they are useless, etc.  They are 1500 watts - but may feel "cooler" because so much more air is being passed over them than a small 1500-watt heater...

[tlhdoc]

You can purchase "heat strips" to add into your AC unit.

Not for the Carrier Air V.  You have to buy an entire new inside unit if you want to upgrade to heat from no heat.  That is why I recommend to everyone that is getting AC added to a trailer to get the Carrier Air V with the heat option.  It is only about $50 more than the no heat option.