Yet another Bearing post

[tknick]

I have searched and read all the posts I could find on repacking the bearings.  I have the dexter instructions that came with the axle/wheels. I still don't quite understand everything.  I have both the inner and outer bearing out.  I pryed the inner seal out and pretty much destroyed it in the process.  

Can someone explain how you are supposed to "pry the seal out of the hub using a screwdriver" as the dexter instructions say without damaging it?  Secondly, where are the cup or cups.  They didn't come out on their own and I'm not really sure what to look for.  When I pulled the inner seal, (which was metal with a rubber ring in the center) the inner bearing fell out.  

I have one wheel apart now and am heading to the parts store to look for a replacement for what I damaged as well as cotter pins and new grease.

Any help and a thorough explaination of the disassembly process would be GREATLY appreciated.  I understand the process of repacking the bearings with the grease and have actually done that before.  It's this business of seals and cones that is confusing me!

thanks
travis

[cwilson]

try this web site.

http://www.rd.com/content/openContent.do?contentId=17452


the cups or race are in the hub(silver ring) and you have to pound them out, be careful not to damage, have extra cups on hand to replace if needed. they also make a special tool for installing the cups that makes the job very easy. i do not know the name of the tool.  it is very difficult to remove the seal without damage, it is probably wise to replace them anyway. hope this helps

[chip]

Try this link:  http://www.arveeclub.com/showthread.php?t=52107&highlight=bearing+service

I have yet to get a rear seal off without destroying it.  I was always told to replace it anyway.  Most of the big auto parts stores should have kits to complete the process.  Take your old seal with you to the parts place to match up with the new one.  The counter guy should be able to cross reference any numbers on the seal.

Unless you are replacing the bearings because they are scored, show signs of overheating (blue tint on the rollers), or just because you want to, there is no real need to remove the races (cups).  Just make sure that the inner bearing goes back to the inner side and the outer goes back in its place after they've been repacked with grease.  

If you replace the bearings, use the new races that come with the new bearings.  

HTH.

[Beerlifter]

My 2 cents worth!!  This works for me.....after removing the hub and bearings slide the hub back on and screw the nut on about 2 or 3
threads then let the hub rest on the spindle and give it a quick tug and usually the seal will pop right out by catching on the nut....give it a shot it has always worked for me.

[ScoobyDoo]

My 2 cents worth!! This works for me.....after removing the hub and bearings slide the hub back on and screw the nut on about 2 or 3
threads then let the hub rest on the spindle and give it a quick tug and usually the seal will pop right out by catching on the nut....give it a shot it has always worked for me.

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    CAUTION!   The nut will not always fit thru the race for the outer bearing; you can mark the race and kill the bearing.
   Don't worry about damaging the seal, all you want to re-use is the number. If you plan to keep the trailer get extra seals, you will need them and you can get  the number off the box.
   I always clean and inspect the races (in hub) with rag and bright lite before I clean the bearings. The races are easier to clean than the bearings, and a small bad spot is easier to see. If the race is bad just scrap the old bearing, you don't waste time cleaning it. Most times the race is good the bearing will be good too.

[wavery]

Just so that there is no mis-understandings. I would never recommend using an old race with a new bearing. I no that no one suggested that, just wanted to make that clear.

Every bearing has it's own unique wear pattern that it makes on a race. If you use a new bearing on an old race that has a previous wear pattern, you may experience early and possibly catastrophic bearing failure.

[adwtex]

I recently repacked my wheel bearings and I tried to use a screwdriver but it was very awkward. I did a search on the internet and found they make a tool just for this very purpose. The tool reminded me of a claw hammer, so I decided to try using my claw hammer. I placed the "claw" of the hammer under the edge of the seal and gave it a quick jerk and the seal popped out with virtually no damage. With the seal in tact it was easier to match up to a replacement.

Hope it helps,
Alan

[tknick]

thanks for all the input.  I was able to sucessfully repack the bearings and adjust the brakes.  after a 15 min or so test ride the right side hub was a little warmer that i would have liked.  The left side was warm but could I could have left my hand there all day.  I could still touch the right side without it burning my hand, but after 5 seconds or so it would definitely become uncomfortable.  

It may have been because I was really using the brakes to make sure they were working correctly, or it may have been because I set the brake too tight on that side when I adjusted it.  I am certain the bearing are adequately packed with grease and the castle nuts are not too tight.  I am planning a short trip this weekend (only about 30-45 mins away).  I will leave the beautiful hub caps off and see how warm the hubs are when we get there.

thanks again for all the help. this site is invaluable!  not worthless....invaluable. slight yet subtle distinction.

travis