Unhappy with my Viking PU.

[tlhdoc]

I'd love to argue with this but I'm afraid it's true.
 
Except...for me, it's knickers in a knot...
 
Austin

Humm, so when do we get to see a picture of you in knickers?

[TheViking]

I just paid $170.00 for a plastic water pump for my washing machine, that took the guy 3 1/2 minutes to install. So don't look this way for violins. That's life. If Viking can get 41.00 for a pulley, good for them. Anytime you have something that involves fun...it's gonna cost. Whether it's Campers, Motorcycles, boats, etc. Recreation is a big business.
 
 
As a side note, My first Pop-up was an 02 Viking and I had no problems with it.

[Done Working]

I just paid $170.00 for a plastic water pump for my washing machine, that took the guy 3 1/2 minutes to install. So don't look this way for violins. That's life. If Viking can get 41.00 for a pulley, good for them. Anytime you have something that involves fun...it's gonna cost. Whether it's Campers, Motorcycles, boats, etc. Recreation is a big business.
 
As a side note, My first Pop-up was an 02 Viking and I had no problems with it.

Oh yeah Motorcycles. I have one of those and oh yeah they do cost a bundle to keep on the road.

[howlinowl]

Yes.  They should make an effort to provide a replacement part and a reasonable price.




At this point, the argument is just getting dumb and I refuse to keep answering the same question asked in a different manner.  We're talking about a pulley that is about 1" in diameter and 1/2" in width.  This would be $1.50 at the hardware store, if I shipped it to Alaska it would cost 39 cents.  So, I figure a reasonable price would be 10 times the cost to make it.  THAT IS A 1000% MARK-UP, and still about 1/3 of the price from the dealer.  

There are two folks helping me with this off-list.  Hopefully this will pan out, if not, I'm going to get them made at a local machine shop.  I'll see if I can get 100 of them made and sell to the other Viking owners.

Not really an argument, just a discussion.  The other post I quoted from made it seem that Viking wasn't trying to do anything at all to help your problem.  When, actually they do have the part, and are willing to sell it to you.  I'm sure this isn't an "off the shelf" part that you could pick up at the hardware store for a buck and half.  If so, you wouldn't be on here.  Standard "off the shelf" parts come imported by the containerload.  Bolts and nuts come in 55 gallon drums.  By the time the distributor buys them, packages them into quantities that you and I would be willing to purchase (box of 50 to 100 or a pack of 5), the price of an individual piece (bolt or nut) has multipied many times over.

Viking may have these "built to order".  In other words, they have to have someone make them.  In the beginning, they may order thousands of them and have them available and manufacturing.  After they no longer use the piece in manufacturing, they keep some for replacement parts.  As these NOS (New Old Stock, New parts Old Stock) parts are used, they may have to order more built to keep in stock for replacement.  As they no longer use them in manufacturing, they have to order in smaller quantity.  The price per piece increases, as the manufaturer of the part would rather set up the machinery once and run off thousands than hundreds.  Also, as the units that these parts are used in get older, the demand for replacement parts diminish.  At some point, Viking may decide to stop carrying them and toss the rest of the stock, freeing up warehouse space for pieces for the newer units.  Therefore, the price of the pulley may cover the cost of the discarded pieces also.  All quite reaonalbe, as Viking is a for profit company.

If you do find something that works, that is great.  Many classic car restorers have to have parts custom made.  Some even have done the same as you and started distribution of "reproduction" parts.  My 1973 Mach 1 hood has severly rusted through.  I should have purchased a "NOS" hood years ago, but balked at the price wanted.  Now they have all been purchased.  I was entertaining purchasing a fiberglass reproduction from a company in California, but I have learned that they have some imported reproductions.  I haven't purchased one yet, as some of the quality is questionable on the import parts.  Years ago I replaced a rear quarter panel. Cut the old one off and the radius of the curve on the new one was to great.  I had to notch the mounting flange on both sides and bend the panel to relax the curve.  Got it to work, but it would be greater trouble to do a hood, with the bracing it has.  I want to hear from others who have purchased one as to the fit.

I've installed a remote ice machiine in a restaurant, also.  After installing the unit, attaching the remote lines and removing the panel, there is a service valve you have to open to release the refrigerant stored in the receiver to the lines and remote condenser.  The valve you turn is facing into the unit.  So it is a pain in the a$$ to open.  If the valve had the head on the other end, it would face the open panel and be easy to open.  Why didn't they put a valve like that in??  Because the one they used is a standard off the shelf part, used in thousands of other brands of ice machine, refrigeration and to order and manufacture the one opposite would have added cost.  Cost that would be passed on to the customer or would have taken money off the bottom line.  

I've worked in the automotive industry and the commercial refrigeration industry for number of years and I understand a bit how the parts industry works.  So, I can kinda understand why the pulley cost 41 bucks.  A lot of it has to do with supply and demand.

Allan

[chasd60]

How's this for you?

Coleman/Fleetwood gives a lifetime warranty on the ABS roof for the original owner due to a known design flaw.
Sounds like this company really cares about their customers.
 
Oh yeah, they charge upwards of $900 for shipping...........what a bargain!!!!

[AustinBoston]

Humm, so when do we get to see a picture of you in knickers?

Well, you'd have to figure out when I'm going to the next RenFair, then you'd have to figure out which one is me

Austin

[Sitting Bull]

If anybody needs one of these, please feel free to send me a PM.  I'm getting them custom for $10.  Steel replica, slightly larger diameter and both cables run through the same slot - similar to the replacements that Viking is charging the astronomical fee for.

Please do not respond with even more 4 paragraph messages explaining supply vs. demand and the-more-you-buy-the-less-a-part-costs.  I think we all get 8th grade economics.

$10, get them while they're hot.

[Popupper]

WOW! What a thread.

I have a Coachmen Clipper 1285ST - identical to the Viking 2485ST with  different color canvas and striping. I don't think I'll ever use it enough to wear out the lift system. I backed into a tree once and busted the tail light that cost me a few bucks to replace. Pissed me off more than anything.

Though I can feel Sittingbull's pain, there are some very good comments defending the manufacturer. I wish I could found someone to make a $10 tail light.
Bruce

[howlinowl]

Please do not respond with even more 4 paragraph messages explaining supply vs. demand and the-more-you-buy-the-less-a-part-costs.  I think we all get 8th grade economics.

Glad you finally understand
Allan

[Sitting Bull]

Glad you finally understand
Allan

Yeah, isn't it amazing after all that, I can get them custom for 7 bucks a pop.


 :-()

[wavery]

If anybody needs one of these, please feel free to send me a PM.  I'm getting them custom for $10.  Steel replica, slightly larger diameter and both cables run through the same slot - similar to the replacements that Viking is charging the astronomical fee for.

Please do not respond with even more 4 paragraph messages explaining supply vs. demand and the-more-you-buy-the-less-a-part-costs.  I think we all get 8th grade economics.

$10, get them while they're hot.

If I went in to buy that pulley and they told me, "$41 please", I wouldn't be happy either.

I made a post early on in this thread but somehow it has disappeared. :confused: What's that all about??

Anyway, I have a lot of pulleys that I use around my apt bldg for sliding glass door rollers. If you'd give me the exact dimensions, I'd be happy to check my stock.

BTW, I would think twice about using steel pulleys. I believe that the cables are stainless steel, which is a fairly soft material. If you use steel pulleys, you may experience premature cable failure. That may be why they used plastic in the original design. You may want to consider using brass or bronze pulleys. You will also be faced with a much higher risk of rust with steel pulleys. That would really play havoc with the cables.

What you are experiencing is the "Typical" replacement parts game that you get with ANY manufacturer. I had to by an EGR valve for my wife's Camry a couple weeks ago. The dealer wanted $350. The parts house $196. Both were a rip-off. I bought a Hook & Ladder fire truck for my grandson the other day. It cost $29 and is a LOT more complex then that lousy little aluminum EGR valve that has a crummy diaphragm and one moving part :eyecrazy: . Go figure......

Don't take anything personal on this or any other board. There are all types of personalities here (and other places) some are more abrasive then others. In the end, most all are really nice people that only want to help (some just have a funny way of going about it :J ).....Sorry about the 6 paragraphs

[AustinBoston]

Yeah, isn't it amazing after all that, I can get them custom for 7 bucks a pop.


 :-()

And most businesses can't ship you an empty box for $7, especailly those that are not in the small-package shipping business.

Austin

[Sitting Bull]

Yes Austin, you are 100% correct, and I sincerely apologize for upsetting you with my compliant.  I, as well, feel that $34 is a fair shipping price.  

VIKING CAMPERS AND THEIR REPLACEMENT PART PRICES ROCK!!!

[Sitting Bull]

BTW, I would think twice about using steel pulleys. I believe that the cables are stainless steel, which is a fairly soft material. If you use steel pulleys, you may experience premature cable failure. That may be why they used plastic in the original design. You may want to consider using brass or bronze pulleys. You will also be faced with a much higher risk of rust with steel pulleys. That would really play havoc with the cables.

Thanks for the offer on the sliding door pulleys, but I'm going to give this a shot and see how long it lasts.  Its my understanding that stainless steel has a higher tensile strenght than standard.  In my Jeep club, we made tie rods out of stainless because of it's resistance to deflection.  You gotta weld it with a really powerful TIG to get any kind of penetration.  But I'll call the shop and see if they can make a brass one as well.  You make a good point, thanks!

[wavery]

Thanks for the offer on the sliding door pulleys, but I'm going to give this a shot and see how long it lasts.  Its my understanding that stainless steel has a higher tensile strenght than standard.  In my Jeep club, we made tie rods out of stainless because of it's resistance to deflection.  You gotta weld it with a really powerful TIG to get any kind of penetration.  But I'll call the shop and see if they can make a brass one as well.  You make a good point, thanks!

Actually, S/S has a lower tensile strength than steel. It makes good cables for the PU for the same reason that it makes good running rigging on a sailboat. It has a high amount of nickle and chromium which make it more resistant to corrosion and also make it more flexible for going over pulleys (it bends easier than steel). It is QUITE strong enough for the lifting the PU top and should last for many years if it doesn't come in contact with an abrasive surface (like rust on a pulley).

Take a look at the cables on any crane. They are ALWAYS steel (never S/S), because of the high tensile strength but they are also always covered with grease to keep down corrosion and to help them glide over the large steel pulleys (never under 4" in diameter).

A lot of people think that S/S is really hard because it is hard to drill through. Nothing can be farther from the truth. The reason that is is hard to drill through is because some of the alloy is very soft and heats up quickly. This causes the materials to harden and become brittle as they cool. When you drill it, you have to use lots of coolant and drill it in one shot without backing-off like you do with steel.

If you ever get the chance, take a 3' long piece of 1/4" steel rod and try to bend it. Then take the same length of 1/4" S/S rod and you will find that it bends quite easily.