getting a rusted hitch out of the receiver?

[AustinBoston]

If that doesn't work.......to heck with it. Put the pin back in and call it a day. At least you will know that no one can steal your receiver.

I was thinking that, but then I remembered...she needs a different drop for this trailer.  We gotta get that sucker out of there!   :yikes:

Austin

[fairweathercamper]

Here's an idea (j/k of course) next time you come to a stop light JAM you brakes on real fast and hold on tight. The person behind you is probably on their cell phone and let them loosen it for you.  :-()

[rccs]

A person on the Popup Explorer forum delt with a similar problem. You can check out the results in the Fix It forum there.It is now on page 10 under the Stupid Hitch Insertion Trick post or http://www.popupexplorer.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC.ID=42070

[TXpopper]

I have one reciever that requires an adapter sleeve on it, due to the hole in the reciever being larger than the retaining pin, if yours happens to be using a similar smaller diameter pin, make sure the sleeve is not still in the hole.  If it is in the hole, a drift punch could be used to tap it out.

[brainpause]

I have one reciever that requires an adapter sleeve on it, due to the hole in the reciever being larger than the retaining pin, if yours happens to be using a similar smaller diameter pin, make sure the sleeve is not still in the hole.  If it is in the hole, a drift punch could be used to tap it out.

I was thinking about that sleeve too. It has held me back...for a second...a time or two.

I also thought about the torch trick too. I can't believe a good whack with a sledge isn't loosening things up! I have left drawbars in my Nissan for over a year, and they slid right out.

Larry

[mbopp]

Another vote for PB Blaster and a hammer.

I'd pull the pin and replace it with a 5/16" or 3/8" bolt or rod before I start hammering on it. That way you'll still be able to hammer a tapered punch in the hole if you got the hitch head to move. If you pound the hitch head past the bolt hole and you can't hammer it out from behind it creates more problems.

[lwbfl]

Are you sure it's not welded in?  Hard to believe a hard blow from the side with a hammer wont move it at all?

[mach8274]

Phwew!!! I'm relieved...............I thought maybe you tried the rope around the tree and the tree fell on your truck and...............well......you fill in the blanks :yikes:

Now......if the PB stuff doesn't work, let it dry out and take a propane torch to the hitch socket.........(please don't set the truck on fire )

When steel oxidizes it swells by about 25% but it also turns to powder (Rust). It's just that the powder occupies all of the space between the 2 pieces of metal. Heating the metal will make it expand and should allow for some movement.

If that doesn't work.......to heck with it. Put the pin back in and call it a day. At least you will know that no one can steal your receiver.

The only problem with heating the metal with a torch, propane or acetylene, is that it will weaken the metal. Heat changes the composition of the metal. That is why there is a warning on most trailer frames or tongues not to heat or weld.
Dave

[ScouterMom]

No, it's not welded, nor does it have any sleeve - It's very simple, though it always was a bit tight.  

I never kept the hitch in, because I haven't had a trailer to pull since 2001, and didn't pull it much before that.  I did use it occasionally to pull a trailer for the troop - but we had many dads who have full size trucks better equiped to pull the big trailer, canoe trailer and the flatbed bike trailer - so my van was seldom needed as a tow vehicle.  

So from the last trip with the '76 PUP in Oct 2001, to Sept 2006, the hitch has not been used, and stayed empty.  However, I live in Illinois, near the WI border, where we get lots of snow, slush and the state uses alot of salt on the roads. (my spare tire underneath is very rusty - I doubt it will ever come off, either) the receiver probably had some rust inside it when Will put the hitch back in  - in sept 2006.

It was a very crazy time, we weren't sure if Will  was going to stay with us permanently or what - the household was turned upside down, trying to settle his family's stuff and get him and his sister setlled somewhere after their Dad died.  Will put the trailer hitch in and used the van to haul his stuff for 4-5 weeks in Sept & Oct.  the hitch stayed in the whole time.  I asked him to remove it  a number of times, but it never happened.  After he moved out in late Oct, I tried to get it out, but couldn't.  We got snow early in Nov, and just never had time to work on it.  so it stayed in all winter. More snow, wet & salt.

SO....we're still trying to get it loose.  I think the PB is penetrating, but it's slow.  We can get at it from the back a little, but have been working with a reg hammer - I'll try the back of the Axe (though I know it's not the proper way to use an Axe!) as I don't have a sledghammer.  

the next step would be to try and drill out the hitch, trying to save the receiver.

Heat would be my last resort - before dumping it and going to a hole new hitch and receiver.  I don't want to have to spend the $$ - I'd rather put it toward the camper itself.

Laura

[wavery]

The only problem with heating the metal with a torch, propane or acetylene, is that it will weaken the metal. Heat changes the composition of the metal. That is why there is a warning on most trailer frames or tongues not to heat or weld.
Dave

I doubt very much that your trailer hitch or receiver was tempered (hardened) after being welded together.


I would bet that 90% of all hitches are made of cold-rolled steel and very receptive to heating and welding. There is NO WAY that you are going to change the hardness of the steel in a trailer hitch with a propane torch. You couldn't get the hitch red hot if you left the torch on it all day.  You may be able to heat it enough to get the receiver to expand enough to break the rust-weld.

If all else fails, you could even cut the receiver part of the trailer hitch off and have a new one welded on. However, It may be cheaper to just buy a whole new hitch. They really aren't expensive. You can probably buy a class 3 hitch for around $100. I had one custom made and installed on my Chrysler Concorde for $150.

[chip]

I'm a big fan of PB Blaster and sledge hammers.  I'm also a big fan of DIY, and hate the thought of having to pay someone do anything I that I know (or think) I can do myself.
 
But.  Sometimes you (and I) have to seek professional help. :eyecrazy:
 
I can't imagine that a decent welding shop, or garage, with  the proper equipment, would charge much to loosen and remove the offending piece. (Proper equipment=sledge hammers, drifts and the know-how to use flames-or not-around fuel tanks.  Metal expands when heated, but so does gasoline, but at a much faster rate.  Ax faces can chip when used as hammers, ruining the ax and maybe local vision devices.)
 
Give the PB Blaster a few more days, with daily applications of both the penetrant and the hammer to the part that is supposed to come out.  That should work, but if it doesn't, surrender.  Ask for help at the local shop.
 
Just my .02.

[wavery]

I was just thinking :yikes:

If you can get in behind that thing with an air hammer with a drift punch attachment, that may well just do the job for you. If you've ever tried to take a rusted not off of a bolt, it's the same concept. You can put a 3' breaker bar on the nut and it won't budge. However, you put and impact wrench on it and it may well free up within a matter of seconds. An air hammer can apply more blows to that part in 30 seconds than you can with a hammer in 8 hours.