Pathetic Dometic (fridge)

[Mike Up]

One thing to watch out when replacing fridge to home style 120VAC is the amp draw.
 
Both of my PUPs were 30 amps, 15 amp breaker for camper outlet circuits, and 20 amp breaker for the AC.
 
So you only have 15 amps. My toaster convection oven draws 12 amps alone when used on it's max setting of 500 degrees. 1500 watt heaters can draw 12.5 amps and 1100 watt microwaves will draw 9.2 amps.
 
You'll run out of amps real quick if you use electric appliances in place of gas appliances. I remember the day we could run our microwave, lights, and TV at the same time because of limited current. We kept blowing fuses. The TV had to be off to use the microwave.
 
I try to stick with gas when ever it's possible. The 3 way 1.9 CF fridge I have is about $450 at camping world. I enjoy it because I precool my fridge without needing to hook up electric. With the addition of the cheap under $30 fan, it works efficiently now. The cost also includes the thermoswitch that is included on the fan. With my installation, the switch was to far away from the coil to detect the heat so I bypassed it.
 
Have a good one.

[PattieAM]

I've got the 3.7 c/f 3-way fridge, and it works very well.  I do not pre-cool as that would require raising the roof before a trip.  I carry cold stuff in the cooler and once set up transfer it and fill the ice trays.  For the first hour or so I will run the unit on the propane setting as it cools faster, then switch over to 120v.  I will have ice cubes overnight.  Naturally, the thermostat is on the max. setting.  Second day I will adjust the thermostat to about 3/4.

The only times I've had issues was when my PUP was not leveled properly - guess the ammonia compound couldn't circulate properly.