Leveling your Pop-Up camper

[fallsrider]

One explanation for out of square doors may not have anything to do with the frame. I replaced my canvas last spring. I put the new canvas back just like the old one, but I think it pulls towards the front just a little bit once the shepherd's poles are inserted on the bunk ends. The canvas isn't pulling laterally on the roof when raising and lowering, so that's not an issue, but when I put the pressure on the bunk ends, I believe the roof leans forward ever so slightly, wracking the door frame just a little. That's why I compensate with another crank down on the rear stab.

At any rate, it works just fine, and I'm sure with my one more crank routine that I'm not hurting anything at all. Now if I lifted it 2" or 3", that's another matter entirely.

[wavery]

No pop-up is perfect.  If you don't notice a problem (i.e. if you can't feel it being out-of-level when walking or when laying in bed), then it's level enough.  People get concerned about the fridge being level, but on a typical pop-up, the fridge only needs the pop-up level to within 3-4 inches side-to-side, and 7-11 inches (depending on length of pop-up) front-to-back.  I know if I were off by 3 inches when I leveled, PJay would make me level again (no comments please).

Anywhere on the frame, a good bullseye level will get you within 1/2-3/4 inch every time.  You do not need to be that accurate.

I've actually outdone myself on leveling.  Without trying, I have developed a skill for just looking and knowing how much I'll need to level side-to-side.  I will check with a bullseye level after deciding, but I and the level have not disagreed in many years.

Austin

The point of being as level as possible is to have your lifts push straight up, directly in-line with gravity. Any off-level and you start the roof leaning to one side or the other (toward gravity). The further off center the lifts are the more stress on the entire lifting system. Having said that, I agree that an inch or two probably won't make a huge difference. The differences are in degrees.  At a 25 degree angle, you may not be able to move the roof at all.

What we are talking about here is "Ideals". Like you say, nothing is perfect but the goal is to do the best you can to avoid lifting mechanism issues and maximizing the life of your camper.

[chasd60]

Here WAS what I did for my Viking popup. Setting the door in place prior to installing the shepherds poles helps stop the roof from being pushed too far in one direction and screwing up door alignment.

 
1. Back into lot and check for side to side level, adjust as required with blocks or BAL leveler and add wheel chocks
2. Unplug trailer/vehicle wiring.
3. Crank tongue jack to remove camper from hitch
4. Remove safety chains
5. Pull tow vehicle away
6. Adjust front/back level with tongue jack
7. Remove required items from front storage trunk (i.e. Screenroom, portapotty, roof crank, stabilizer crank.. etc)
8. Unsnap roof clips
9. Remove items from rear bumper storage compartment
10. Unzip awning bag if you are vertically challenged;)
11. Crank roof up until guide wire is taut
12. Install roof safety supports on opposite corners (don't forget these when lowering)
13. Lower stabilizers and snug (fine tune leveling by lowering the lowest side first and more snug)
14. Insert bunkend supports on tongue end
15. Pull strap on bunkend out until the bunkend stops
16. Insert two additional supports under bunkend
17. Pull tent material over end and attach bungie cords
18. Close zippers on this end and close tenting over support arms/zippers
19. Insert bunkend supports on opposite end
20. Pull strap on bunkend out until bunkend stops (adjust for teflon slide under bunkend)
21. Pull tent material over end and attach bungie cords
22. Close zippers on this end and close tenting over support arms/zippers
23. Enter camper and close bottom of door
24. Lower upper half of door from ceiling
25. Insert top door guides into the bottom door and snap clip (careful of fabric pinching on sides)
26. Press top of door in and close the clips (careful of fabric)
27. Twist clip to unhook upper door from doorframe
28. Attach tenting to door frame velcro from inside
29. Removes shepherd poles from under mattresses and place to hold tenting up on bunkends.
30. Organize interior (i.e. flip galley up insure drain is open and valves are closed, close water heater drain valves under u-shaped dinnette seat, place cushions, remove stove etc)
31. Exit camper
32. Attach exterior tenting to door frame, careful of alignment
33. Shut 12V supply off to refrigerator
34. Open gas valves
35. Connect 110V and water if hookups
36. Set refrigerator to either 110V or gas and use piezo if gas to light
37. Hookup any graywater container used
38. Open outside shower compartment and bleed air from both hot and cold sides
39. Light water heater after air is purged from system
40. Undo awning from bag and place awning arms, both support and tension, including the center tension bar
41. Install screen room if desired
42. Relax and have a glass of wine or a beer

[Old Goat]

Wavery, Your sheet of plywood theory is good but it does not apply here. If the 2x4 frame around the edges is only fastened at the sheet's four corners like a popup roof is latched down. it will still twist and flex. If turned upside down with the frame on the top, the plywood will sag in the middle. If the frame is fastened all around the sheets  edges it will become more rigid. Same thing with a popup roof. If you have towed your popup a long distance as I have, you will notice shiney spots and black marks where the roof gasket sits on the top edge of the box. These are caused by movement of the box under the gasket when the frame constantly flexes and twists while being towed especially on the door side. Popups that have slide outs will flex and twist even more than one that does not.

Several years ago I saw a popup that had accidently hit a big pot hole. The frame and 12ft. box had flexed enough on the door side to pull the rear top latch away from the ABS roof, screws and all. The roof had not made the box or frame any stiffer. The frame did not bend and the door still fit perfectly. The TV's right front tire was ruined also. I saw this with my own eyes so I know for sure that it happened. Popup frames, like vehicle frames are made to flex and twist with loads and motion. Otherwise they will self destruct over time....

[AustinBoston]

42. Relax and have a glass of wine or a beer

If you don't get here, may as well stay home.

Austin

[wavery]

Here WAS what I did for my Viking popup. Setting the door in place prior to installing the shepherds poles helps stop the roof from being pushed too far in one direction and screwing up door alignment.

 

I love checklists and this is a good one :sombraro: ...........some people think that they complicate things too much :eyecrazy: . In reality, they simplify things because when you forget to do something on the list is when life can get very complicated :yikes: .

[Old Goat]

Checklists? Never ever had one. They don't ever help me remember everything when setting up, especially after having a couple of cold boys........

[wavery]

Checklists? Never ever had one. They don't ever help me remember everything when setting up, especially after having a couple of cold boys........

That's because you have to remember to "Check" it :sombraro: .

When we were making long ocean passages on our sailboat, we had 3 different checklists. Let me tell you, if we didn't physically check-off every single item and switch lists to double check, all hell would break lose once we got out to sea. We refined our lists over a period of several years. They were terrifically complicated.

That's a pretty extreme example but I have forgotten stuff on the PU nearly every trip. We are thinking about making a list for "Loading & leaving" and another list for popping up (the above one is good) and another list for popping-down and packing-up.

Heck.....as I get older, I may have to have a list for getting up in the morning and another one for going to bed at night :sombraro: .............ye gads......don't remind me............I'm getting to be an "Old Goat"... :J

[campdaddy]

Great thread!  Now I have a Rookie question:

Where on the trailer do you check with your level?  I've been checking side-to-side by placing my level on the back bumper.  I check front-to-back by placing my level on the tongue near the propane tanks.

If I double-check by placing the level on the floor in the middle of the PUP, it doesn't always seem to agree.  This puzzles me. :confused:

My door has never fit perfectly.  There has always been a small gap on one side at the top of the hard wall.  The wingnut on the door doesn't make good contact on that side.  My dealer said popups are just like that.  After reading this thread, I'm getting concerned my frame may have been bent from the day I bought it!  How does one go about correcting this?

I have a set of these on ours. Level
I mounted them on the drivers side front of the camper. The good thing about them is that you can see immediately how many blocks of wood are required to level it side to side. If it's two lines off..it takes two boards to level...and then as for for and aft, its right there where the tongue jack is located. so i just crank it up or down as needed. THEN i use the stabilizers to....well...stabilize...but not to level. You can find these at Wallyworld too. You can see them in this photo Photo If you look closely just above the right forward marker light and just in front of the right forward latch.

I set them up the first time -before glueing them on- by utilzing a carpenters level just inside the doorway.

[campdaddy]

That's because you have to remember to "Check" it :sombraro: .

When we were making long ocean passages on our sailboat, we had 3 different checklists. Let me tell you, if we didn't physically check-off every single item and switch lists to double check, all hell would break lose once we got out to sea. We refined our lists over a period of several years. They were terrifically complicated.

That's a pretty extreme example but I have forgotten stuff on the PU nearly every trip. We are thinking about making a list for "Loading & leaving" and another list for popping up (the above one is good) and another list for popping-down and packing-up.

Heck.....as I get older, I may have to have a list for getting up in the morning and another one for going to bed at night :sombraro: .............ye gads......don't remind me............I'm getting to be an "Old Goat"... :J

wavery, I too like checklists. I have checklists for most things that we need to take with us camping and for checking out the TV and PUP before leaving home, like tire pressures and oil levels, but not one for setup or teardown. The one above by chad60 looks pretty good to me. The one time we left for only (luckily) a 3 day outing and we didn't use our checklists is the time I forgot to take my BP medication with us.

I spent 8 years in the U.S. Air Force (SAC) and we lived or died by checklists. If it wasn't listed on a checklist somewhere it didn't happen . I guess that's where I developed my checklist mania. Heck, we have so many checklists that I may need a checklist to check all my checklists. :eyecrazy:

[Old Goat]

Half the fun of camping is learning how to get along without all the things you forgot to bring. You would be surprised how simple camping can be.
Never worry about becomming an "Old Goat".I am really enjoying the trip. It's much,much better than the alternative of residing six feet under or being converted into a small pile of ashes..........

[PattieAM]

My Owners manual (Fleetwood Niagara) tells me to level side to side first (in the event there is a 'low' side), then front to rear, using the tongue jack to level.  Then it tells me to raise the roof.  After the roof is raised then I am to use the crank-down stabilizers..."Do not lower the Stabilizer jacks prior to raising the trailer top as this can place an undue stress on the trailer frame and lift system resulting in premature wear.  Do not use the stabilizer jacks to take the weight of the trailer off the tires.  The jacks are inted ONLY TO 'STABILIZE'."

[A2SuperCrew]

I have a set of these on ours. Level
..................

Thanks, CampDaddy!  Those levels do seem like a nice way to simplify leveling, or at least make it more consistent.