Which Caulking to Use to re-assemble roof?

[kmh1596]

Hello all, just found this great site, I hope to be frequenting often!

   I'm fixing some roof damages I have on my 04 Rockwood Popup, and am replacing the curbside wood at the same time..
  What is the best caulking to use when reassembling the wood, corner caps, and metal moldings,etc..?
 
   Also, where would I get the white vinyl or paper thin aluminum to cover up the board I'm using? Im trying to make this as close to factory as possible. Thanks in advance!

[austinado16]

I just did some major repairs to my roof and you can read about the fun in this thread: Starcraft rotted roof repair

I was able to reuse all of my aluminum siding and glued it to the 1/2" OSB to the aluminum skin on the inside and outside using a construction adheasive called "PL400" from Home Deep Hole (or similar building supply).  I clamped the skin to the wood and left it for about 24hrs.

I used galvanized sheetrock screws to screw the wood sides to each other and to the top......the factory had stapled it all together. I put the upper and lower metal trim back on using the thin version of the grey putty tape they sell at the RV store and then screwed it back down as the factory had done.

Once it was all done, I sealed all edges with the tan silicone sealer that the RV store sells (because my PUP is that fashionable late '80's tan).

Hope this helps.

[sacrawf]

The 3M Marine 3100 adhesive sealant is a great product, and appears to be near to what the factory used on the corner caps.  It is available in both toothpaste-like tubes for small jobs or in caulking gun tubes.  It is available locally from Wal-Marts and watercraft suppliers.  The only disadvantages is the week-long drying and curing time, but as it is rated for use under the waterline on boats, it should do a great job on your roof.  It is also very strong, and not removable.  You would want to use another removable high quality silicone based sealant around other seals that you would not want to be permanent for replacement of the vents, etc.

The factory cost of an entire new Rockwood roof for an 8' box is around $1,100 if you want to keep it purely original.  By the time you remove and install, replace the AC, vent fan, remove and reattach the door, tenting, and curtians, it would be a time consuming job.  Cost to have it replaced by a dealer would probably run about $2,500, depending upon whether you have AC or not.  (Might be a good time to add if you don't already have AC).

Very small  surface punctures can be repaired by carefully lifting up the outside skin of the roof, filling the void in the foam with 3100, bending the outside skin down flush, and making an outside seal bead with the 3100.  Allow to dry properly before use.

The roof is made of a "fiberglass vacuum banded radius roof" which is a sandwiched product with interior structural support, foam, and exterior layers of Filon. For an exact factory look, you might want to get some Filon Textured Flexroof sheeting to recover the roof.  You would have to probably get it through a dealer source, as it doesn't appear to be available from the manufacturer directly.  It is manufactured by Crane Composites.  Their webiste and a description of the material is at: http://www.kemlite.com/filon_frp/filon_flexroof.cfm

Good luck, and how about some before and after photos?

Hello all, just found this great site, I hope to be frequenting often!

   I'm fixing some roof damages I have on my 04 Rockwood Popup, and am replacing the curbside wood at the same time..
  What is the best caulking to use when reassembling the wood, corner caps, and metal moldings,etc..?
 
   Also, where would I get the white vinyl or paper thin aluminum to cover up the board I'm using? Im trying to make this as close to factory as possible. Thanks in advance!

[kmh1596]

Before: Keep in mind, I'm replacing the curbside wood as we speak:





 For the caulking, Id like something removable, like what they use from the factory, as I mainly need it for the curbside wood, moldings, etc...

  Thanks for the info, the PL400 may not be an option for me right now, as I just want it to seal it, but need to be able to remove if it comes down to it..
  As for factory roof, I was quoted about $1700-$1800 for a roof, after roof ~$900, crating $150, and shipping $~$500, and tax @ 6%... I'd rather try and fix what I have.. I dont care how it looks, I picked up the camper for veryyy little..
 Kevin

[kmh1596]

AUSTINATO16:
   I posted in your other thread too, but was wondering where to find the vinyl laminate, or paper thin aluminum to cover the curbside board in, when I replace it? Id prefer not to have plain wood or painted white colored curbside board... :/
 kevin

[austinado16]

Man Kevin, I saw that PUP on ebay the other night and thought......wow!!!!

Sorry I can't help you with locating the sheet aluminum you need.

However, it seems like someone just the other day was on here asking that, and someone else answered with a couple of links to aluminum suppliers.

Search the archives here in the Mr. Fixit forum, or scroll down a ways and see if you find it. I think it was the post about fixing the rotted rear roof on a starcraft.

I think if it were me, I'd take that whole roof off and use it as a pattern to simply make a completely new one.  Then paint the whole roof with that EPDM roof paint and call it a day.

[kmh1596]

I didnt buy it on ebay, so must have been another one you had seen.. Picked it up on Craigslist for cheap. It's an 04, and I already have the roof off and am working on replacing the curbside wood currently.. Just need to find the thin aluminum to cover it in, hopefully.
 Kevin

[ScouterMom]

OUCHIE!  What'd they do? Drop a tree on it?

But hey, when you fix it up, it will be something you can really be proud of. Looks like a nice camper, otherwise.

 Keep us posted - do you have a photo site? I'd love to watch your progress!

Larua

[austinado16]

Sorry Kevin, I confuse it with this one:Rockwood XL

If yours has a nice interior and floors, then you scored.  Fun finding deals like this and then making them "your own" by doing all the work.  Good job!

[kmh1596]

I will update later with the address to my photobucket page, but it is an 04 1940 LTD.. and yes a tree fell on the top.. one of the countertops needs to be redone, and of course the roof, then just odds and ends, (one of the bed slides is bent)... I can't wait! I already have the curbside wood off of it just am looking for a replacement piece now that is long enough.. The roof may not look too pretty once I go over it with fiberglass, but I will be Kool-Sealing it after, so at least itl be all one color. I dont care how it looks so long as it doesn't leak! this will be my first popup, and it was used for 2 weeks, for 2 summers in a row.. I definitely scored for what I picked it up for!
Kevin

[kmh1596]

Here is the only pics I have so far... I will get more as the process continues.. Like I said. Im not looking for beauty on this roof, just functionality!
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v465/kmh1596/Misc%20Pics/2004%20Rockwood/

 A random question is that since the roof is damaged, I can see the metal bracing on either side of the vent of the roof.. Does this mean its built to hold an AC unit already? itd be great to install that now if so!
Kevin

[austinado16]

I tried to find that thread where someone posted sheet aluminum buying sources, but couldn't.  I know it's here somewhere though.  I guess you might have to search google, or call your local RV place.

I think you can get 4x10 sheets of certain plywood.  Maybe that would be long enough, even if you had to cut the piece you need on the diagonal out of the plywood sheet?

Otherwise, Simpson makes those stamped steel plates for joining roof truss systems together without nails.  Those are incredibly strong once pounded into the wood on both sides.  You can't use them on OSB or particle board, but they should work good on plywood or regular wood planks.

[kmh1596]

Yeah I can't find any place that will have or make a sheet bigger than 4x8.. I did however find thicker planks which will work length wise, id just have to have them planed down so that they will work.. I did find a piece of pine that would work well, its just flimsy stuff and I dont want to be replacing this again soon.. I really need the thin aluminum sheeting to apply over it, but I can't seem to find a link or info for it anywhere..

[austinado16]

Building or roofing supply places will carry aluminum flashing on rolls of various widths and lengths.

I've seen in where on one side it was a brown semi-gloss like primer, and on the other side, gloss white paint.  I've also seen it where it was just bare silver aluminum.  You can typically cut it with scissors, so it's pretty easy to work with and cheap.

You could PL400 glue that to both sides of your side wall board/plank, and then take a jig saw and trim the proper curvature to the top and ends to match how the orginal one was shaped.  Then PL400 the edges where they'll meet the roof and end panels and galvanizes sheetrock screw it right into the existing wood.

Then straighten out the original edge trim and mount that using the thin version of the grey putty tape sold at RV stores, using the original screws.  Finish up by caulking the edge seams in white, and you'd be ready for the large fiberglass repairs and cool seal.

[kmh1596]

Where can I pick up some of the PL400? Also, do I NEED to use that tape, or will caulking it surfice? If I have to, I'll grab the tape just didnt know if the caulking would be enough.. I'll stop by a building supply place tomorrow or Saturday. Thanks!
 Kevin