Couple of Questions

[jmaddox]

OK...We're having some issues with our 2001 Viking 2170ST...and I figured asking here would be cheaper than hauling it to a dealer...

- On lowering the camper, it seems to 'bump' it's way down.  It's not smooth at all, and we have to push the various poles down as we go.  It also stops about 6 inches shy and we have to push it down the rest of the way.  This is our 2nd popup, and that may be normal...plus, I figure if we aren't level, that could be affecting it as well.

- We are unsure about how the fridge functions.  We have tested the outlet, but we don't hear the fridge ever come on.  We've even tried it on propane...but still, we don't hear a motor or anything....which leads us to our last issue...

We finally got the furnace to come on- but its burning with a bright yellow flame- which doesn't seem right to me.

I will tell you that we didn't test this stuff before we bought it.  It's my understanding as well that the camper basically sat up for a year.

[austinado16]

I would start by lubing the lift system.  I think silicone spray is what's recommended because it doesn't attract dirt/dust.

If the roof doesn't come down that last 6", make sure you don't have your tenting folded in such a way that it's too piled up.  Or that you don't have a bunch of bedding and/or pillows on the bunks that might be stacked too high.

Regarding the fridge, there is no motor, no refrigerant pump like on your house fridge, or your car's a/c system.  The fridge works on the magic of heat and amonia vapors/liquid.  Called an absorbsion fridge, and you can read all about that online.

To get the fridge going, you need to start 24hrs before leaving to camp.  Plug it in to your house voltage with an extension cord if it's a 3 way fridge.  That fires up an electric heating element in the chimney, and in turn, the liquid amonia is heated and starts to do it's thing.  After a few hours you should be able to feel heat coming off the louvered upper grills on the outside of the camper, and you should have cold evaporator fins inside the fridge.  While towing to your camp ground, you switch over to 12 volt operation and the fridge continues to "cook" using the 12 volt heating element and be powered by your tow vehicle or the camper battery.......just make sure you have your TV wired to send 12v to the camper's battery.  Once at the campsite, either plug in to shore power, or switch to propane.  You have to light the propane burner located on the back of the fridge.  

Your owner's manual should help explain all this in detail.

[Micksc]

Cleaning the furnace combustion chamber and orfice may correct your improper combustion problem. If not you're gonna need a pro.  

[wavery]

Leveling your PU before you raise/lower the roof is essential. If your PU is off level, you may experience exactly what you describe. It is also very hard on the entire lift system. The system is designed to go STRAIGHT up. The only way that you can accomplish that is to level the camper side to side and front to back before lifting the roof. Be sure not to put pressure on your levelers too, as uneven pressure can contort the frame slightly and and cause mis-alignment of the lifting posts. This will cause them to try to go up in slightly different directions which may cause binding.

Imagine having a 10' long steel pole (about 40#) that is standing up, leaning against your house and you have to lift and move it. If you lift it straight up (keeping it perfectly vertical) it is relatively easy to lift. If the pole is at an angle, it will cause you a lot of stress and contortions to lift. It's the same thing on the PU lifting system x 4.

[Jim K in PA]

The suggestions offered above are all right on.  Our 2170ST also is a bit "notchy" on the way down, but usually drops to within the last inch or so before we have to start compressing the tenting to get it to latch.  As you are lowering the roof, have a helper walk around to make sure the tenting is collapsing evenly and relatively flat, and not bunching up.  Stop lowering and flatten as necessary.  The roof will stay put in mid-cycle.  Even though ours was nearly brand new when we bought it, spraying the lift arms and cabling under the PUP with silicone made a noticeable difference.

As Austinado pointed out, the refirgerator is silent.  Give it time and it will get nice and cold.  The rule of thumb is to start it 24 hours before you need it, but ours cools off within 4-6 hours of starting.  Do not try and run it on propane as you tow, as the flame will likely blow out.  Also, make sure the 12V switch is off if you are not plugged in, or are running it on propane or 110V.  You do not need both heaters on to make it work.  Also, running the 'friedge on 12V alone wil kill your battery in a few hours.  Don't ask me how I know . . .  

Our furnace runs nice and clean with bright blue flame.  Yellow flame sounds like a blockage in the diffuser pipe or just outside of the supply port.  Check for spider webs, as that is usually the culprit.  It does not take much to interfere with the low pressure flow.  You can access the burner from inside by taking off the front cover.  

Let us know how you make out!

[jmaddox]

Thanks to everyone for all of your suggestions...

- We probably weren't level which could have attributed to the issues with lowering.  It's a lot more popup than we had previously (1998 Starcraft Single Bunk).  I've figured out with the winch type system being level is even more critical than before.

- Thanks for the advice on the fridge.  I'll plug it up tomorrow and let it stay plugged up for 24 hours or so and see what happens.

- As for the furnace, I think we figured out the issue there.  Turns out that dirt dobbers and wasps like to build nests in places like that.  Who knew. lol.  I'll buy a couple of the screens and get it cleaned out and see if that helps.