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Roof Sealant Question

Started by Booner, May 06, 2009, 09:37 PM

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Booner

This is my first post here.  I was recently given a '80 Coleman PU by a friend and I'm doing a few basic things to get it ready for camping this summer.

I am currently resealing the roof joints and I'm searching for the correct type of sealant.  I've searched the Mr. Fix It forum and found various suggestions (Dow Silicone #999A, 3M 5200, marine type sealants, etc.).  

What I would like to do is use a sealant that is easy to work with and a sealant that I could also paint over (which eliminates a silicone based sealant).  I'd appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks!

flyfisherman

Quote from: BoonerThis is my first post here.  I was recently given a '80 Coleman PU by a friend and I'm doing a few basic things to get it ready for camping this summer.

I am currently resealing the roof joints and I'm searching for the correct type of sealant.  I've searched the Mr. Fix It forum and found various suggestions (Dow Silicone #999A, 3M 5200, marine type sealants, etc.).  

What I would like to do is use a sealant that is easy to work with and a sealant that I could also paint over (which eliminates a silicone based sealant).  I'd appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks!


Welcome to PUT ...!

Factory O.E.M. calls for the silicone sealant. With my Starcraft, that called for the Dow 999A, which I used to re-seal the roof seams after the camper was about 6 years old. It looked like some cracks were beginning to appear and not wanting to take a chance on a roof leak, I re-sealed the roof joints/seams.

The reason for the silicone is that it does a good job for what it was intended to do. And it can be removed and re-applied quite easily. This is important because if you had to remove a roof panel for an interior roof repair, the roof section could be removed and re-installed and re-sealed with no problems. Not so easy with a more aggresive sealant.

True, you cannot paint over the silicone, but the old silicone residue can be removed completely using isopropyl alcohol and not damage the original factory painted roof panels. In re-painting the roof, remove the silicone completely, cleaning the residue with the alcohol, re-paint the roof panels, and then re-seal with the silicone. It would look more original for openers.

But if you just had to seal the thing and be done with it, nothing, but nothing, equals that nasty black urethane sealant used for automotive windshields. Millions upon millions of cars and trucks live their entire life without a leak. Should a windshield ever have to be replaced, that old cured urethane has to be cut out, air chisled down to the metal as far as possible; and then a new bead of urethane sealant is applied over the old remanents and the new wind shield slapped on over that. You put that stuff on your roof panel/seams and it ain't EVER coming off. And you can paint over it, too! Now consider this, if that was such a good idea for the popup camper industry, why is it they have not done so before now? There's not that much cost difference between the two sealants. As for me, I'll stick with the silicone just in case I ever have to remove/replace a roof panel. Besides, re-sealing the roof is one of those maintenance chores I enjoy ... like getting out in the springtime and working on the boat and getting it ready for the upcoming season.



Fly

01YZF6

Geocell ProflexRV, it comes in white and almond, $6-$8 a tube, I just used this on my roof and like it a lot !
 
it goes on easy and is flexible for shaping...

dries pretty fast too...