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Roof sealing, which one?

Started by 01YZF6, May 07, 2009, 02:07 PM

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01YZF6

after reading through a bajillion posts on roof sealing, I decided I am going to use Kool-Seal.

For all of you roof repair experts out there, which ONE??  they have 5 different ones on their site.... do I use the elastomeric or the Aluminum coating one?  which one did you use? ( pics?)

thanks

flyfisherman

Quote from: 01YZF6after reading through a bajillion posts on roof sealing, I decided I am going to use Kool-Seal.

For all of you roof repair experts out there, which ONE??  they have 5 different ones on their site.... do I use the elastomeric or the Aluminum coating one?  which one did you use? ( pics?)

thanks



Let me ask ... whay are you sealing the roof? Is it leaking? Does it need painting?




Fly

01YZF6

ooops sorry I was in the middle of posting my roof rebuild when I got sidetracked, accidentally closed it, @#$%&!

anyway, I rebuilt the inside of my roof due to some rot/damage.... all that is left is to finish the seams with Geocell ProflexRV sealant, then to repaint/seal  the roof....

I filled in the dimples and divots int he roof and sanded them down too...

click on the WWW tag to see my pics so far.....

thanks for the answers!

flyfisherman

Quote from: 01YZF6ooops sorry I was in the middle of posting my roof rebuild when I got sidetracked, accidentally closed it, @#$%&!

anyway, I rebuilt the inside of my roof due to some rot/damage.... all that is left is to finish the seams with Geocell ProflexRV sealant, then to repaint/seal  the roof....

I filled in the dimples and divots int he roof and sanded them down too...

click on the WWW tag to see my pics so far.....

thanks for the answers!



You've done a nice job of repairing/re-building that roof!

Let me tell you what I've done with my Starcraft roof as far as repairing some damage, then re-painting. For openers, when the PU was relatively new, I waited too long with a coming storm front to take down the awning and while in the process a gust of wind jerked that awning we were rolling up whipped it in the air with the awning rafter poking a hole in the camper's aluminum roof (thank the Lord for duct tape!). Patched that hole, plus a dent, with a two part epoxy flexible filler. Later I was to drop the bow of the canoe onto the roof (my footing slipped!) and added another dent (but did'nt make a hole). Here awhile back I got caught in an hellacious hail storm while on the road and did try and hide under one of those overpasses but still caught a lot of wind and hail. Was carrying the canoe so that did protect the camper roof to some degree. But now I had a camper woth some dents and larage dimples! So I filled in the big dents, again with the two part epoxy, and then scuffed (sanded) down the roof, cleaned it real well and then painted the entire roof with a two part acid etch primer just for aluminum. Next, without sanding that primer, I sprayed a paintable automotive rubberized undercoat (3-M) over the primer. It has a sort of dimple effect, kind of like the rocker guard that was used on cars a few years back. But it fit the roof just fine. Took a tad over a quart of the rubberized undercoat to do the roof (two medium/light coats). Then I painted the roof with a latex, using a roller and right over the un-sanded (but dried) rubberized undercoat. The paint I used was Sherwin-Williams "Duration" and turned out better than I expected. You'll have to look hard to see the places where I filled in and sanded down the epoxy filler.



Fly

01YZF6

I am waiting on the gallon of Kool-Seal (white elastomeric stuff, not the cheaper Aluminum stuff) to come in, I had to special order it,  they had Sno-Seal ( same stuff but more money) but the sales guy at the hardware store said it was not as good and wish they had never dropped the Kool Seal line. ( they are a Do-it-Best place now).

rsgault

I have started repairing the wood rot in my 82 Redwood.  I replaced the panel on the inside of the front of the roof.  I still need to do both sides and the rear panel.  Did you remove the roof to do the repairs or did you leave it on?  I can't decide whether it is easier to just block the roof on each side or remove it and turn it over. Thanks for any input.

01YZF6

Rich, you can click on the WWW it will take you to the pics, and suggestions.  it is a 1000% easier to remove the roof and work on it upside down, just make sure you have several support pieces under it. I screwed 2 10' 2x4's to my sawhorses.  wish I had 2 more sawhorses though....  2 is not adequate IMHO...

01YZF6

the roof is DONE !!! wooohooo (well 99% anyway, I still WANT to paint the edge rails)
 
I scrubbed it simple green, then washed it with soap and water, rinsed it thoroughly twice !
For coating prep I used 1/4 cup of TSP and 2 gallons warm water ( per directions) and scrubbed the top again.
Rinsed it down with warm water ( just poured it over the top thoroughly) then rinsed it with the hose sprayer again.

After it dried, I taped off the edge rails and the center seam.
 
I stirred it and poured a 4" wide line of the Snow-Roof coating down the middle of one half of the top and began to roll it out.
I kind of spread it around the the first half of the top to thin it out, then the roller started doing the work!
 
I did the same for the other half of the top and the ends/sides.  I waited an hour for it to tack up, then repeated the process.

I rolled it the LONG way for the first coat, then Across from the edge to the center seam for the second coating. I even rolled over the corner caps.

I only had 1 gallon to work with, so I used a 1/4 gallon each time I applied a coat.  it worked out really well.

Pics are being uploaded