1992 Flagstaff - roof, lift, fridge etc with pics

[coach]

Keep the fridge graphs coming.
The watts @ 12v is often the same rating as 120v and with the inefficiencies, about the same as propane burner rating!

here's the specs for a small Norcold

Ratings:
AC Operation: 110 Volts AC, 140 Watts
DC Operation: 12 Volts DC, 140 Watts
(3-way models)
LP Gas Operation: 640 BTU per Hr Input
11 Inch W.C. Gas Supply
No. 10 Orifice (LP10)

Current draws:
AC Heater: 1.3 Amps @ 110 VAC
1.2 Amps @ 120 VAC
Resistance 81.7 - 90.3 Ohms
DC Heater 11.7 Amps @ 12 VDC
10.0 Amps @ 14 VDC
Resistance .95 - 1.05 Ohms

See venting/bad venting at the bottom of this link!

[92_Flagstaff]

Fridge re-assembly went reasonably well.  No major issues.

This was just a cosmetic overhaul.  Painted the exterior with Krylon Appliance Epoxy Paint.

I think these before/after show an improvement.







Tested the electrical performance and it appeared okay.  I have it on propane right now.  Cooling down from 62øF.  We'll see if there is an improvement.  Flame doesn't look much bigger than before.  Maybe.

[4Campers]

Nice clean-up job on that fridge. I think the flame looks bigger, but then pictures are tricky to guess from.
What is next?

[92_Flagstaff]

Whats next? lol   More work... never ends.  Thanks for the kind words.

Today's mission was to see if I could make the fridge fit in the trailer.  Weather has been unusually pleasant this past week; good for outside projects.

This morning the fridge was in the mid-30's after running all night on propane.  It still doesn't cool as fast as the 120V, but it gets there.  That's all that matters for now.

The location of the fridge means that the vent holes I cut will remove the logos on the left rear of the pup.  Not much I can do about that.



To begin the installation I needed to remove the icebox, fold-over sink, and the cabinet in that corner.  Not too hard...just a few screws.



The conduit running front to rear for the lift mechanism will be exposed after I cut the side wall out.  There is a 120V wiring that I'll need to be aware of as well.  I am going to tap into this later for a surface mount outlet to run the fridge.  There appears to be anough slack in the wires to accomplish that.



I test fit the fridge in position, and measure where I need to cut the front fascia panelling back to allow it to fit.  The counter is factory curved to allow access to the fridge door lock.  This fridge is very similar to the Dometic and Norcold versions in that regard.  Lucky for me.





Fits like a glove

I had to cut the bottom of the paneling out completely, as the fridge sits on the floor.  The original icebox was flanged, and had a 3/4" lip on the lower opening.  Width increased by about 1" as well.



I borrowed a saw from my dad (a gift I had given him in the past).  Great tool for precise cuts to the paneling.  Between the two of us, we weren't quite sure what good this saw was, but now that I've used it it may become a favorite saw.



As usual, my little helper was also busy.   []

[92_Flagstaff]

I used lots of masking tape to protect the exterior surface, then attacked the outside lower area to cut the vent opening.  Started with a jig saw, but quickly noticed that a sawzall would be a better option.  Not perfect but it worked.  My helper was on the inside of the trailer making sure I didn't cut any wires or the conduit tie bar.  All went well.



I haven't connected the fridge yet, or done the baffles, but the exterior vents are in place and temporarily screwed in.  Looks okay.





Here you can see the vertical plywood wall I added on the rearward side of the fridge.  I need to add the insulation, reflectix and venting and clean all this up, but it fits.



The top of the cabinet an the sink are just resting there.



The door just clears the wooden support that the folding sink rests on when traveling.  Fridge is a perfect fit fir the trailer.

That's it for today...  hopefully this week I can get it wired up and finish that propane tee connection.

[92_Flagstaff]

I need to complete the sink plumbing before I finalize the fridge installation.  I won't be able to access the plumbing very easy later on.  My sink has a faucet like this:



I believe it must be  3-way version, as I have a city water connection, and a holding tank.  The faucet appears to also have a wire loop on it.

Does anyone have an installation instruction booklet for this unit?  None of the supply hoses were connected to the faucet when I got it although they were there, just disconnected..  Just curious what is the best (proper) way to hook it up.

I'm assuming the sink drain goes straight out without a P-trap, otherwise I'd get wet when I flipped it over from the residual water in the trap.

If this is in fact a 3-way faucet, what type of electric water pump am I looking for?  I suspect that loop of wire is just hooked up to a switch?  cut the wire, and splice in series?  Ground side of the circuit?

Thanks for advice in advance.

[92_Flagstaff]

I'll be very happy to get my hand one some instructions for this faucet.  It has three inlets, and that white wire loop.  I've looked every where online, and came up empty.  I'll probably just guess at the connections until it works.

If anyone has them, please email me at:  glastron @ live . ca



SHURflo probably made this faucet (Model 131-?) but they have every manual online except for this older faucet.

After a second look, it appears to have its own built-in version of a P-trap (sort of).  I'll just hook the drain up straight to that fitting.

[aw738]

I just replaced my faucet with one like that but it only had two hoses. I don't have an electric pump. The instructions were for the two hose only.

My Taos has a screw in plug in the sink that keeps water from leaking onto the floor when I fold the galley over.

[92_Flagstaff]

Had a busy week, so I accomplished very little until today.  Started today by installing the tee-fitting in the LP line, and ran new lines to the fridge and stove.  I ended up putting the tee in the center, knowing that this could make the fridge harder to start.  Fridge still lights well, which I have since tested.



I need to purchase a couple of grommets, but otherwise the LP lines are complete.  Tested all connections with liquid soap and water.  All is well.





While I was at it, I cleaned the stove up.  Looks okay.



Next step was to mount a surface outlet, allowing for the 120V fridge connection.  I simply cut into the existing line, and wired the outlet in series.







Next step was to make the lower baffle plate.  I cut aluminum flashing running straight in towards the fridge, then up, and out to the lower side of the upper vent opening.  Turned out well.



I screwed the outer edge to the existing vent opening, both upper and lower.



It sits about 1/4" or so away from the fridge coils, and should work well.

[92_Flagstaff]

I added reflectix material on both sides, and filled in the gaps with adhesive aluminum foil to seal it all up.  The conduit you see is the lifting rod for the roof.







I also cut a sheet of aluminum to cover up the damaged floor covering and clean it up a bit.



There is a lot of room to access the necessary switches and flame ignition.  Should be no problem for routine maintenance later.





Next on the agenda was to focus on the upper vent.



I insulated on both sides of the fridge with standard fiberglass batten, and then added a layer of reflectix on the top and taped the joints.

[92_Flagstaff]

I used reflectix on the sides in this upper vent area as well.







With the exception of a 12V supply line, the fridge install is done.  Its running on propane now, and cooled  to 46øF now after a couple of hours.

[austinado16]

Super nice job on the install.  Man you're settin' the bar high!

[92_Flagstaff]

Thanks again Austin.  I'm really happy with how it looks, and works.

Luckily, I was able to remove that little drain screw without any problem.  Cleaned out the drain accordingly, and re-assembled.

I attached the city water to the center connection, and the potable water for hand pump to the open connection.  I left the plugged connection as-is.   Had to buy a new drain line, which sounds simple but is not easy to find.  I tried the hardware store black rubber version but it kinked too easily and proved useless.  I ended up buying a ribbed drain line from the RV dealer.  Not cheap, but works great.

I haven't hooked up a 12V water pump yet, but might next year.  I'd probably go with a different faucet if I installed a pump.  If I had city water pressure or pump pressure, I'd prefer a tradition faucet handle without a hand pump where you just open it to turn the water on.

When I flip my sink over for travel, it drools out the faucet spigot.  Is it normal to have a water shut-off at the sink to prevent it from siphoning out the potable water storage tank?  The water level in the full tank may be above the faucet spigot if it was full.  Either way, mine runs out to the floor.

I have an extra water shutoff valve for the 3/8 tubing.  Wasn't sure where it belonged.  Now I think I know where it went...lol



Good news...the fridge running for 12 hours on propane (overnight) is down to 24øF !  It appears the air flow circuit helps.

[waygard33]

Awesome job! Looks better than new. Like Austinado said...You have really set the bar high...I can't even see it from where I sit.:eyecrazy:

What the heck are you going to do with all your spare time once your Pup is finished?

Wayne in Oregon

[92_Flagstaff]

Thanks Wayne.

I wasn't trying to set a 'high bar', just did what seemed to be the correct way to install it.  That fridge gets really hot in the back, and I didn't want the excess heat to seep into the camper through crevices.  This time of year it might be nice to have extra heat, but in the summer months (camping season) I suffer in the humidity as it is.  Added bonus it that any CO2 or propane issues should vent out to atmosphere well.  I suppose a LPG and/or CO2 detector would be a wise investment.

The upper vent (running on propane anyways) gets noticeably hotter than the lower intake vent.  That a good sign there must be air circulation.  I'll probably toss that thermometer in the upper vent area next year just for curiosity.  I need to install screens behind the vents in the spring.

May or may not get camping again this season.  Busy, busy, busy at work with lots of travel.  Most campgrounds around here have closed, or will be closing shortly for the season.

Added a pic of the venting just for clarity.  Center baffle extends 8" inward from outer skin, and is 6 inches high.  Upper baffle is only slight tilted upwards as the fridge height is almost as high as the pup.  Only had enough room for one small layer of reflectix between the top of the fridge and the counter-top.  Even then, it was compressed.