Honda EU2000i sufficient for 15000 BTU

[handfixer]

Hey gang.  Without getting too technical, can someone tell me if Honda EU2000i be sufficient to run 15000 BTU A/C unit. I know it depends whether I run something else concurently.

[wavery]

Hey gang.  Without getting too technical, can someone tell me if Honda EU2000i be sufficient to run 15000 BTU A/C unit. I know it depends whether I run something else concurently.

No........how's that for "Not too technical??" (although, I am assuming that you are talking about a roof-mount RV A/C unit)

[handfixer]

No........how's that for "Not too technical??" (although, I am assuming that you are talking about a roof-mount RV A/C unit)

Any recommendation?

[wavery]

Any recommendation?

Yep........get 2 EU2000ie generators and run them in tandem (4000W) for the A/C. When A/C is not an issue, you will only need to bring along 1 of them.

You can pick up good used ones on craigslist for about $750.

[CajunCamper]

Are you going to be running the generator on private property where there are no other people camping or are you going to be running it in a campground where other people are camping?

[handfixer]

Are you going to be running the generator on private property where there are no other people camping or are you going to be running it in a campground where other people are camping?

I am planning to operate the generator at public campgrounds according to campgrounds rules.

[handfixer]

Yep........get 2 EU2000ie generators and run them in tandem (4000W) for the A/C. When A/C is not an issue, you will only need to bring along 1 of them.

You can pick up good used ones on craigslist for about $750.

Thanks Wayne. I knew you had a answer. I went and purchased a new Honda EU2000i companion for my basic electrical needs. When I see a need for A/C unit then I will purchase A/C, another EU2000i and parallel cable.  

Thanks,

Steve

[wavery]

Thanks Wayne. I knew you had a answer. I went and purchased a new Honda EU2000i companion for my basic electrical needs. When I see a need for A/C unit then I will purchase A/C, another EU2000i and parallel cable.  

Thanks,

Steve

I know that it's an expensive way to go (in the short run) but in the long run, you will save on gas, set-up time, storage room and Dr bills. Those units are very lite weight (as you know) and you will only need 1, 90% of the time. If you rotate them, they will last a long time.

If you have a power outage at home, you'll be very happy to have 4000W of power.

[zamboni]

No........how's that for "Not too technical??" (although, I am assuming that you are talking about a roof-mount RV A/C unit)

Unfortunately... that is not true.

I have an RV Products 8000 (I think it is the same as the Coleman 13,500 BTU) in my 2006 Jayco.

I can very easily run my AC on my Honda 2000 generator.  Using my Kill-A-Watt meter, I determined that the AC is a "soft-start" unit.  It starts at 11,000 watts, and ramps up to about 1490 watt over the next 3 minutes.

On High.

After gaining that info, I bought a Honda 2000, and successfully ran my AC on high using my generator -- and this was with the camper's inverter using about 100 watts.  I did select "gas" as the fridge mode.

If I ran my AC on "low", it only took about 1100 watts.

Granted, a 15,000 BTU AC will take more - but mine is a horribly inefficient and very loud (especially at night) unit.  I'd recommend you buy or borrow a Kill-A-Watt meter (Costco carries them for $24, $30 online), so you can map out your camper's power needs.  If it is borderline, you can selectively unplug your AC and pipe that straight into your generator... leaving your camper (lights, fridge, water pump) to run off battery).

Note, I also found my microwave to be 1200 watts.

The fridge took a max of about 380 watts.

[wavery]

Unfortunately... that is not true.

I have an RV Products 8000 (I think it is the same as the Coleman 13,500 BTU) in my 2006 Jayco.

Where do you get, "Unfortunately... that is not true":confused:

:book: How does this have anything to do with running a 15,000BTU roof mounted RV A/C :confused:

The Honda EU2000Ie will not run one.......... period. It will barely run a 13,500 and then only with a perfectly balanced unit and often only with a custom start capacitor.

[handfixer]

Unfortunately... that is not true.

I have an RV Products 8000 (I think it is the same as the Coleman 13,500 BTU) in my 2006 Jayco.

I can very easily run my AC on my Honda 2000 generator.  Using my Kill-A-Watt meter, I determined that the AC is a "soft-start" unit.  It starts at 11,000 watts, and ramps up to about 1490 watt over the next 3 minutes.

On High.

After gaining that info, I bought a Honda 2000, and successfully ran my AC on high using my generator -- and this was with the camper's inverter using about 100 watts.  I did select "gas" as the fridge mode.

If I ran my AC on "low", it only took about 1100 watts.

Granted, a 15,000 BTU AC will take more - but mine is a horribly inefficient and very loud (especially at night) unit.  I'd recommend you buy or borrow a Kill-A-Watt meter (Costco carries them for $24, $30 online), so you can map out your camper's power needs.  If it is borderline, you can selectively unplug your AC and pipe that straight into your generator... leaving your camper (lights, fridge, water pump) to run off battery).

Note, I also found my microwave to be 1200 watts.

The fridge took a max of about 380 watts.

Thanks Glen,

I will purchase a kill-a-watt meter.  

Whether I buy a 13500 or 15000 BTU RV air, it probably would not hurt trying my one Honda EU2000i before I purchase the second one.

Although, I was told from wisesales.com, I would need two Honda EU2000i to run a 15000 BTU.

I thank everybody for your input.

[zamboni]

It will barely run a 13,500 and then only with a perfectly balanced unit and often only with a custom start capacitor.

Sorry -- nothing CUSTOM about my camper.  Modern camper AC units are "soft-start"; mine takes 3 minute to ramp up to target wattage.

No "barely" -- the Honda 2000 is rated for 1600 Watts "continuous" and 2000 watts "peak" (for 30 minutes only).  My 13,500 (or more?) AC unit is less than 1600 watts.  So how is that "barely"???

On HIGH, my unit started at 11,000 watts.  I speculated that a 15,000 BTU unit (that is only 11% more capacity than mine) SHOULD work fine.  I even recommended using a $25 device to determine exactly.  Newer AC units are more efficient than earlier units.  So, it is very likely that my 2006 13.5K BTU unit does not use any more electricity than a newer 15K BTU (especially how LOUD my unit is!).

I was trying to be honest & forthcoming.  I stated *my* experience, but gave the OP the tools he needed to obtain *his* needs -- namely, a $25 Kill-A-Watt meter.  Problem solved.

[zamboni]

Although, I was told from wisesales.com, I would need two Honda EU2000i to run a 15000 BTU.

After giving my AC model number, I was told by several shops that I could not run it with a single Honda 2000.  Please bear in mind -- they are not impartial 3rd parties; they derive their livelihood by sales.  If they convince you to upgrade to a Honda 3000, or 2 x Honda 2000... they win.

My livelihood is engineering -- so, much to my elementary-school-teacher-wife's chagrin, everything I do is backed up by empirical data.  I verified modern camper AC unit's electrical draw via my Kill-A-Watt meter.  In 2006, I bought & returned a generator that was (a) MUCH louder than its rated amount, and (b) could not maintain its 900-watt (it died at 332 watts) capacity.

All I can recommend, is if you buy a Kill-A-Watt meter... when investigating a new camper, (a) determine the camper's draw with no extra charge (including fridge).  Then, (b) add in the AC unit and note the increased draw -- this will let you know the AC's added START and FINAL draw.  You can use this info to determine if your desired generator will power your unit.

Note, Yahama (and Kipor) sells a nearly-as-quiet unit that is 2300 watts instead of the Honda's 2000 watts.  Either of these are ALMOST as quiet and will give you perhaps that little extra power to get your generator going... if that is what you need.

[coach]

Temperature has  something to do with how much energy is needed to operate an air conditioner.

The hotter it is, the higher the compressor output pressure ...

The Mach 3 P.S.™ data sheet suggests it is under the 1600 watt rating (13.3A) of a honda 2000.
The Mach 3 P.S.™ data sheet - 1157 watts standard and 1355 maximum conditions (95 F DB/71 F WB indoor/115 F DB outdoor).
Their 'regular' model spec (13.5KBTU) at 1595/1924 watts, which is more than a Honda 2000 is rated for (13.3A).

Their 15KBTU (not a P.S.) uses more (1748/2117) than the 1600 watts continuous rating of the Honda 2000 (13.3A).

A 3500 continuous rated generator with a RV 30A plug is adequate.
$350 brand new with warranty.

[CajunCamper]

Okay here's my two cents. When we are camping in a site that has full hook ups, I expect to hear AC running and people watching TV outside at their site, you just come to expect a louder camping experience in that type of a setting. But when I'm in a primitive site even if the campground allows campers to run their generators during the day and then cut them off during quiet hours, it is still very annoying. One of our favorite primitive campgrounds allows for the use of generators except during quiet hours and 90% of the time no one in the primitive area uses a generator. But occasionally someone does use a generator and even if they follow the campground rules, just hearing that dull "varoom" all day really is an annoyance for those of us that have to listen to it. I know I need to try and be more understanding, perhaps the person with the generator needs it for health reasons, but I'm guessing that would be a rare situation. I can remember times when we have been camping in primitive sites and someone there was running a generator, after a while you sort of try to ignore it, and then the generator stops and you feel instant peace and your stress level drops and you thank God for the quiet. Then the guy fills it back up with gas and starts it all over again and the peace and quiet is broken again. Hey you have every right to run a generator in a primitive sight if it falls within the rules, but what's the point of camping in a primitive area if you're going to turn your campsite into a noise making power station. There are alternatives for you if you have to run your air that doesn't disrupt the peace and quiet of those around you.