RE: No Propane

[campingeyedoc]

 
I am getting no propane to either the inside or outside stoves/furnace. I know the tank works. I did get some fluid when I disconnected the green nut from the tank. I disconnected the nut and first hose from the first regulator and hooked it back up to the tank. I did get some gas thru the hose, but not as much as I thought there should be. What should be my next step? Should I just replace the green nut and hose? Or should I replact the first regulator, as this is the last step that the inside and outside lines have in common? Also, if I replace the regulator, it says " do not try to replace hoses only" . Well, which hoses comprise the regulator unit? And what do you put on the joint (putty,etc) to help prevent leaks. I,m hoping I can do this myself, but I need to isolate the problem first. Thanks!

[Tim5055]

 campingeyedoc
Step 1, prior to turning on the LP Gas tank is to make sure that ALL appliances are in the off position.  The new style valves have a safety device in them that will not allow the gas to flow if something is turned on.
 
 Check out the question [link=http://www.title-3.com/FAQ.htm#LPFlowLimit]What is an LP Gas Flow Limiting Device?[/link] on my [link=http://www.title-3.com/FAQ.htm]Frequently Asked Questions Web Page[/link].  Its under the LP Gas Information area.
 
 
 Now with that said I had the same problem as you several times.  My dealer replaced the hose once and the regulator twice.  The last time if failed we were miles into the national forest - no LP Gas![:@]
 
 I drove out to the closest thing to civilization I could find and found an LP Gas distributor who also sold grills.  He did not have an RV style hose (green nut, has the safety bells and whistles) but did have a grill hose (black nut, no new safety features).  I chose to replace the RV hose with a grill hose.  I have never had a problem again!  
 
 Remember this is a life safety issue, and you should think long and hard before you defeat a safety feature.  Don t do it just because I did it!

[MattH]

 campingeyedoc
I m not sure if this will work for you but it s worth a try before replacing anything.
 
 Our maiden voyage involved a tank that I knew was full and a water heater that would not light. Having my cell phone with me, and the dealer s number I gave them a ring.
 
 His suggestion, which worked, was to turn off the gas at the bottle and start over.
 
 1) close all gas knobs
 2) open gas at the tank
 3) light the inside stove (he emphasised that this was critical). Air is now purged from most inside lines.
 4) light water heater
 
 Now when he first told me this I swore to myself that he was an idiot and he didn t understand my problem. Of course air was purged.......#$*&^.........start over....&*^%$....this is stupid....^&*$%#@........must be cobwebs in the gas lines...*&%$#.....
 
 I have never had a problem since. Go figure
 
 Matt

[topcat7736]

 campingeyedoc
Tim is correct about the hose with the green nut on it. The new OPD style hose has a valve inside it to prevent gas leaks when the valve on the tank is initially openend. It will shut off the flow of gas to devices if they are initially in the " on"  mode. Unfortunately, the valve won t reset when you turn the tank off & back on. You must disconnect the hose completely and re-connect it to have the valve re-open.
 
 It also has a major drawback to those using a large amount of LP gas at one time, ie water heater, fridge, stove & furnace. The valve may see the large flow as being a leak & begin to close thus restricting the flow of gas to the appliances and causing some to turn off due to a lack of pressure.
 
 Your best bet is to replace the hose with the green nut with an old style POL hose. While it will cause you to use a wrench to screw it on each time you change tanks, you won t have any more restrictions in the hose & all LP devices will function properly. My guess is the valve inside the hose is failing....and a LOT of them have since their inception.