electrical converters

[brainpause]

What is a good brand of converters to look into? I am considering replacing ours (although not likely), so that it can easily power our two Coleman Powerchills, plus the lights in the camper. I am pushing our 9amp/113.4 watt (by calculation) converter to the limit.

Also, who is a good source for the brand you suggest?

Larry

[topcat7736]

Larry,

I'm confused (as usual). If you already are at a site with 110v, why not just use the optional Coleman Power Supply? They're only $28 each, directly from Coleman, and probably cheaper in one of their outlet stores. The cost of a new converter plus outlets is going to be a whole lot more $$$.

[brainpause]

Good question. I already have one of those Power Supplies that we use when hooked up to shore power.

However, I have installed two 12v power outlets to use while in transit. That way, I can keep the coolers running while driving. I got tired of loading them in the back seat of the truck.

In fact, the stupid Powerchill almost kept us away from last year's Eastern Rally. We were hooked up, loaded up, and ready to pull out of the driveway for the 400+ mile drive. The only thing that wasn't loaded yet was the Powerchill (always last so we could keep it plugged into shore power before loading it and running on truck battery).

Anyway, I picked it up (full of food), and tried putting it in the back seat, and BOOOIINNNGGG! My back muscles felt like they had sprung! Uh oh! I had to lay down on the ground. I was rolling around in pain. Holly "walked" on my back, and loaded me with ibuprofen, and I drove with an huge ice pack on my back for a couple of hundred miles.

We had to do SOMETHING because she wasn't about to tow that trailer, and I wasn't about to miss that rally!

Larry

[mike4947]

Larry, as the past owner of a lot of PU's with vintages older than your IIRC all the converters where at least 12 amps.

If it's outputing for 2 power chills, IIRC about 4 amps each, and 2 double bulb light fixtures (1.8 amps per bulb) (7.2 amps total) and doesn't keep blowing fuses IMHO it's a minimum of a 15 amp converter already.
 
Of course my numbers on the PowerChill are based on my old Koolatron and your newer ones may draw less amps.
Again JMHO but I'd be getting a flashlight and standing on my head (don't you just love where they mount those converters) and finding the data plate to see what it is.
 
A new 20 amp converter will run about $130 up. Ones such as the new WFCO converter that Fleetwood is now installing in their new PU's and has a fairly good battery charger in it also IIRC run about $170. More of course if the dealer sticks it to you on the price.
 
Our "fixes" over the years for underpowered trailer power center were; rather than spend the money on a new converter; was to add a small AC transformer to power something and plug it into another outlet on the shore power. We actually used a small battery charger for several years to power the Koolatron. At that time the 120 volt power supply was $49.95 for the Koolatron and I already had a 6 amp charger.
And/or We converted the ceiling fixtures to flourescents. They draw about 1.2 amps each so we saved the difference between 7.2 amps and 2.4 amps and gave out more light.
 
 
I hear you about the cooler weights, who knew you could turn them into a solid block of lead when you load them. DW at one time suggested we get one of the 120 quart ones. Needless to say they got vetoed real fast.

[brainpause]

Funny thing...It is a 9 amp converter, but it has a 15 amp AGC fuse in it. :confused:

Anyway, it has a nice big pretty "9" on it. Specs are: Output 9 amps at 12.6 volts (that's where I got the 113.4 watts).

Haven't blown a fuse yet under normal operation. Of course, we haven't been camping with two coolers yet either.

Larry

[MtnCamper]

If you only power them on the road, where does the converter come into play? You're running off the 12V circuit not the 110 converted to 12... The 12 may feed thru the converter, but the converter isn't doing anything. Your power ports must be wired in forward of the kill switch too.  Correct?

[brainpause]

Correct, but even when hooked to shore power, I am at my converter's limit, especially when using lights as well.

Larry

[mike4947]

Well Larry, your converter is a first for me, but then again I've never owned or worked on any Palaminos.
Sounds kinda like the Canadian's using 15 amp converters in models that sell in the US with either 20 or 30 amp converters.
 
If you'd like to know what exactly your light bulbs draw here's a link to a site with watttages and apm ratings: http://www.litebulbs.com/appchart_minilamps.html
 
If you have two double bulb ceiling fixtures and the cooler running off the converter be glad you've got the 15 amp fuse as you're drawing quite a bit over 9 amps without anything else.
 
Since you've obviously also have a 15 amp shore power cord you'll have to revise the estimates upwards apx $35-$50 for a 30 amp shore power cord as well.
 
Again JMHO, but I'd get a 110 volt power supply for the second cooler and run it on an extension cord out to a serperate outlet on the shore power.
Save you about $200 and we do it all the time for a second ceramic heater even with a 30 amp converter as the 110 volt breakers won't take 2 heaters.

[topcat7736]

I'm with Cliff and still confused. Here's a few situations to ponder.

1) Let's say you are driving and want to keep the coolers running from your truck battery. You can't plug them into your cigarette lighter because it's only 10 amps. So, you'd need to run separate, fused circuits from the battery to the trailer to power the two of them (if they're 9 amps each). No converter is needed.

2) You're somewhere and hooked up to 110v. The Coleman power supply plugs into 120v and powers the cooler. No converter is needed.

3) You're somewhere without your truck and without 120v available. You must be using a 12-volt battery (and it better be a big one because those coolers will drain a Group 24 battery in a few hours)! The coolers probably came with a cigarette lighter plug to power them. Radio Shack has an outlet that clips to the battery & gives you a 12-v female cigarette lighter hookup. They also have a 2 to 1 adapter (and a 3 to 1) which when plugged in to the one that clips to the battery gives you multiple outlets to plug in the coolers. No converter is needed.

4) You're somewhere and hooked up to 110v. You don't want to use your Coleman power supply (for some unknown reason). Now you need a big converter! (But, you still won't be able to keep them running when you're driving because there isn't 18 amps coming into the trailer from the tow vehicle!

Forget bigger converters & just get the Coleman power supply, for 120 volt operation, and re-wire the 12-volt outlets you installed to allow you to connect directly to a battery.....a BIG battery!

[MtnCamper]

I guess that's were I am too, confused.

[brainpause]

OK, OK, all points taken. I probably won't get a converter anyway. It's a mess of wires in there, and camping season is too close to get into that anyway.

I understand needing/not needing a converter, but here are my answers to each of Al's points (well-made points, I might add):

1) I don't have a charge/battery wire from my truck to the camper, so that is a moot point. I do, however, have a nice Group 27 battery on the camper, which keeps the coolers running during travel. Agreed, no converter is needed.

2) I only have one Coleman power supply. A second power supply means cords are strung across the camper (for the second cooler's location). Agreed, no converter is needed, except for the second cooler, which is still running off 12V (from the converter). A Coleman power supply would be much cheaper than a new converter. But I don't like wires strung across a camper. I would also like to just keep it plugged into the 12V outlet that I have installed (actually, two of them).

3) See #1

4) This may be the crux of the problem: I had rather keep the coolers hooked up to 12V (from the converter) because the trailer is small and limited in 120V outlets. The coolers only pull 4 amps each at 12V. This is the reason I want a bigger converter, as they are pulling 8 amps, plus any lights I have on. Also, with both coolers running, it is (mathematically) very near its limit, and both coolers seem to really drag the converter down. This is why I thought a bigger converter might help my situation.

I sure don't want to seem stubborn or cranky. I came here for some advice and answers, and I am getting great discussion! I am hoping that it is/will help someone else too.

Now that I have gone to the trouble/expense of wiring a second 12V outlet where our old built-in ice chest was, and purchasing a second Powerchill, if I had known I would have these problems, I might have considered putting a Coleman 5-day cooler in there, as it MIGHT fit in that spot where the old built-in ice chest was. Hmmmmm.....I wonder if I can get a refund on that Powerchill? Guess not....it was a gift.

Thanks for the help!

Larry

[byrdr1]

Larry you are just thinking to hard for a Friday!!!
Take a chill pill and go campin'.. Thats what you need a shot for that campin' fever you have...
Oh the joys of having a large frig with freezer these days.....
Randy
who is glad we didn't get our 12 inches of white stuff, but one county away they got up to 18" of it.

[wynot]

Hey Larry,
 
Solution for the back problem (which we remember, btw). Load the empty chilled cooler in the truck, load it with the food, and run them on an extension cord until ready to roll.

[brainpause]

Well, looks like I need to get another Coleman power supply and deal with a cord running across the floor. Here's why:

Each power outlet in the camper puts out around 12.5 volts.
The Coleman power supply puts out 14.9 volts. No wonder it works so much better when it is hooked to 120V---->12V through the power supply

But the 12V outlets are good enough to keep the food respectably cool during a trip or while waiting in the parking lot while I'm at work (yes, I have taken my loaded camper to work with me).

Larry

[topcat7736]

Larry,
I looked around for an outlet that would have 12v and 120 volt sockets on it but couldn't find one. That would solve the cord problem. Just plug into one or the other.

The two coolers draw 8 amps/hour. Your Group 27 battery is probably only 105 amp hours max. Since there isn't any shutoff for the coolers, (via thermostat), they will continuously run and completely drain your battery within 13 hours.

I think these coolers are more intended to be used while driving than while camping. They are very inefficient, only cool so many degrees below the outside temperature and suck down power like there's no tomorrow. Guess that's why they're classified "thermoelectric COOLERS" instead of refrigerators.