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popup - roof latch = small leaks - loose

Started by justkdue, Jul 11, 2005, 07:16 PM

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justkdue

Bought a 1998 Rockwood Premier 2308 popup from orig owner - generally good condition but with two problems I'm not quite sure what the easiest way to fix is - this problem is with the roof latches : When you fold down the camper, there is a latch on each of the four corners of the roof that latches in place with a corresponding connection on the side body of the camper. I have noticed in a couple of places, the (2) wood screws that are holding the roof latch part in place are about ready to "burst" out of there when applying any pressure to them. From what I can tell, the pressure on these (2) wood screws on each latch has been just enough that it pulls them out "just a little tiny bit" - just enough for a little water to leak into these two holes - most of the roof/side material directly around these two holes is "mushy" or "spongy" which further leads to the concern of "when" and not "if" these screws will pop out.

It seems like the best solution might be to find some kind of larger (ie. maybe 4" square) metal re-enforcement to place one the inside of this area to secure the latches to - thereby displacing the pressure out over a larger surface area instead of a 1/4" hole that is likely to give way when hitting the next big pothole on the highway. And then of course to somehow "seal" the holes on the outside so that they can't leak any more.

Any thoughts on this?

Thanks,
Kevin

Old Goat

Using the plates on the inside of the top sounds like a good way to solve the problem...Make sure you have a clear flat area on the inside of the top for the plates...Fastening the latches with flat head  bolts [#10 or 12] with fender washers and nuts on the inside might be the way to go too.........

AustinBoston

Quote from: justkdueIt seems like the best solution might be to find some kind of larger (ie. maybe 4" square) metal re-enforcement to place one the inside of this area to secure the latches to - thereby displacing the pressure out over a larger surface area instead of a 1/4" hole that is likely to give way when hitting the next big pothole on the highway. And then of course to somehow "seal" the holes on the outside so that they can't leak any more.

As I was reading your problem, I was picturing a solution like yours.  A stress relief plate on the inside (and maybe a small one on the outside as well), switch from screws to small bolts, and use a caulk around the outside of the screw holes to seal it up.

Austin

astropunk

Also be aware of how much "pressure" the latches are under when locked.  If the screws are pulling out, it would indicate to me that they are way to tight.  They only need a reasonable amount of pressure to secure the top down.

Bikrchar

I've been dealing with this exact issue on my Camplite.  I found the problem was a little deeper than just needing support.  Those screws go into t-nuts in the plywood that makes up the sides of the roof under the aluminum.  In my case, I found that the plywood was getting soft (rotting) from water leaking in around those screws.  I fashioned a plate out of galvanized sheetmetal as an experiment.  I removed the t-nuts and secured my plate to the inside surface of the plywood with short screws. (there was adequate clearance)  I used stainless steel screws from the outside, and placed stainless fender washers and stainless steel stop nuts on the inside.  I cut the screw off flush with the nut.  Result??  This worked fairly well, but not exactly what I had hoped for.  The bracket still moves when clamping the roof down.  It seems like a plate on the outside in addition would probably improve the situation.  It will just mean more places to caulk.  At least if I can get the bracket to not move, the caulking will be so much more effective.  I also found that the wood was getting soft all the way through where these screws penetrated the roof.  I found that I needed to cut spacers out of a piece of copper tubing which are literally sandwiched between the bracket on the outside, and the new plate on the inside.  Having done one corner this way, I plan to modify my design by using heavier metal on the inside and possibly adding a plate on the outside.  I'll post when I get the next experiment completed.

mike4947

If you do go with just an inside plate and bolts and the latch still moves adding an outisde plate really won't cur the problem. What's needed is to enlarge the plates so they are over good, not dry rotten wood and add two more through bolts. The extra bolts secure the plates which in turn secure the latches.But, normally just the inside reinforcement plate and through bolts are all that is necessary.

justkdue

Quote from: BikrcharI've been dealing with this exact issue on my Camplite.  I found the problem was a little deeper than just needing support.  Those screws go into t-nuts in the plywood that makes up the sides of the roof under the aluminum.  In my case, I found that the plywood was getting soft (rotting) from water leaking in around those screws.  I fashioned a plate out of galvanized sheetmetal as an experiment.  I removed the t-nuts and secured my plate to the inside surface of the plywood with short screws. (there was adequate clearance)  I used stainless steel screws from the outside, and placed stainless fender washers and stainless steel stop nuts on the inside.  I cut the screw off flush with the nut.  Result??  This worked fairly well, but not exactly what I had hoped for.  The bracket still moves when clamping the roof down.  It seems like a plate on the outside in addition would probably improve the situation.  It will just mean more places to caulk.  At least if I can get the bracket to not move, the caulking will be so much more effective.  I also found that the wood was getting soft all the way through where these screws penetrated the roof.  I found that I needed to cut spacers out of a piece of copper tubing which are literally sandwiched between the bracket on the outside, and the new plate on the inside.  Having done one corner this way, I plan to modify my design by using heavier metal on the inside and possibly adding a plate on the outside.  I'll post when I get the next experiment completed.

Well, unfortunately, you are more accurately describing my situation than I first realized ... upon further review, it seems the "wood" is all "mushy" in a somewhat circular area around the "loose" (now aka "leaking") screws. Looks like I will have to get a larger support plate and maybe on the outside as well. For some reason this is the case on both latches on this side of the camper - and neither of the latches on the other side...

crazyjne

Quote from: justkdueWell, unfortunately, you are more accurately describing my situation than I first realized ... upon further review, it seems the "wood" is all "mushy" in a somewhat circular area around the "loose" (now aka "leaking") screws. Looks like I will have to get a larger support plate and maybe on the outside as well. For some reason this is the case on both latches on this side of the camper - and neither of the latches on the other side...


I am the owner of a 1989 Palamino pop up.  My locks are also in need of repair.. Since I only use the pop up once a year  I have been using the bingy method to hold down this corner.. Hopefully I can find a way to replace them.. It is rotten in this corner also.
Any idea how to get an owners manual for a Palamino?  I also have problems with the lights when I attach to my jeep.. THanks Crazyjne