HELP-More than we bargained for!!!

[K&TsMom]

We approached a friend who we knew at one time wanted to sell their p/u to see if they were still interested.  We ended up buying it...our first p/u.  It is a 1991 Starcraft Starflyer and I don't think they even realized the condition it was in.  DH brought it home on Saturday...and we have spent all weekend trying to clean it out.  The inside is definitely in great shape.  A few minor replacements in need...hinges, levers, etc.  But the canvas is a mess.  It appears to be mostly moisture damage but I am unsure of how to tackle it.  We are willing to put some elbow grease into this "family project" being we got the trailer for next to nothing - but I don't want to do any further damage to the canvas.  All mold/mildew came off the vinyl, floor, ceiling with a bleach, vinegar, water mix...but of course don't want to use on the canvas.  I did try some Murphy's Oil/Water on some spots and it is cleaning off the dirt/grime.  It did look like it "lightened" the tough spots.  If we do a light "power wash" on the outside will we be 1) causing water to come into the unit and, 2) spread the mold/mildew more.  We are TOTAL newbie's at this and I am trying to find ANY info I can on what I can do.  We do have two small holes in canvas and 1 4"tear that needs some tending to.  What are the canvas repair kits.  Will it work.  Can't see spending $900 for new canvas.  We would appreciate any helpful hints anyone can give us...don't want to start to get discouraged.  We really want to make this work.  Are there any other additional websites I can get some help on.  Thank you in advance for all those that will take the time to help!
Michele

[flyfisherman]

Michele - sounds like you got a hold on the things! I've been using the Murphy's Oil Soap on my campers for years and it does an excellent job, on hard surfaces as well as the canvas and vinyl. As for that mildew, a horse of a different color; after the Murphy's bath to remove the grime, you'll have to go over the mildew  area(s) with a bleaching compound - Starcraft recommends using 1/4 cup of Clorox to a gallon of water (just be sure to rinse well as the bleach will cause thread deterioration). Heard of people here who swear by the bleach/vinegar/water mix, just be careful not to breath the fumes as it's said not to mix an acid and bleach together in that the vapors can be harmful to the USER.

Don't quite follow you on the power wash ... are you talking about the hard sides of the camper? I would certainly be reluctant to apply to a canvas!. I've always washed mine with a soft bristled brush and all has come clean.

For canvas, Starcraft uses Aqualon. Why don't you give those folks a call:
(The Astrup Company) 800/786-7601
See if they might not have an idea or two that could help.


Fly

[mike4947]

Even a "light" power wash can destroy the fabric, not to mention it'll put water through places a hurricane wouldn't find.
 
Figure you'll have to rewaterproof the fabric after cleaning. Any product/material that'll kill and/or clean off mildew will remove the waterproofing.
 
Also don't be surprised if there are stains from the mildew you can't remove. They will lighten but not go away completely in some cases.

[K&TsMom]

Thank you guys so much.  I tried to read everything I could on here about what to put on it...but since we have never had a p/u before I am not sure about the whole water issue.  Most of the weekend was spent cleaning out the whole interior...and DH dealing with replacing lights, hitch/ball misc. and we figured we would tackle the canvas next weekend.  I am SO happy on how clean the inside got...but I have come to the conclusion we will have to put up with a some staining on the canvas.  But we will see where we are at after the first go over.  We just won't "judge a book by it's cover"!!!!  

After I do the washing with Murphy's Oil, light brushing...How do we rinse.  Do we spray it off with hose?  I just wasn't sure how "wet" we can get things, ie the canvas.  I realize now that the power wash thing is only for the hard shell.  

There are also a few small "holes" - do canvas repair kits work (anybody used anything they feel works good) or should I try and contact a canvas repair company.  I really don't feel we would do any camping in the rain - and I don't think we care about the "look" of patching...I just don't want the canvas to rip/tear any further.  Would like to fix these holes before we try and wash the canvas.  Any ideas?

Thanks again -
Michele

[K&TsMom]

Is there something we are missing on the bunkends...I see that the sides are velcro'd at the bottom...is there something more - let's say - safe.  I have a toddler - won't he just fall out if trapped in corner!  I know stubid question...but I didn't know if there was a remedy for this.

[SpeakEasy]

I repaired a canvas tent last spring by using an iron-on patch. It is the easiest tent repair I've ever done. I bought the iron-on patches at Joanne Fabric for $1.66! The patch is perfectly bound to the canvas. It does "show," of course, but it is structurally sound and waterproof.

Speaking of waterproofing, I recommend pure spray silicone. It costs a bit more than other products.

SE

[K&TsMom]

Again...more "dumb" questions - with the iron-on patches do I put one on each side of the hole...and

am I actually use an iron??? OK that is a really dumb question I know!!!  

I really don't care what it looks like - as long as I can stop the "spreading" holes.

Also - On a thread that I found here someone suggested using "Contact Cement...cutting the patch larger than tear and then follow the directions on the can".  Where can I find contact cement - and is it an actual piece of canvas I am using for the patch?  

Michele

[ColemanCampingFamily]

Again...more "dumb" questions - with the iron-on patches do I put one on each side of the hole...and

am I actually use an iron??? OK that is a really dumb question I know!!!  

I really don't care what it looks like - as long as I can stop the "spreading" holes.

Also - On a thread that I found here someone suggested using "Contact Cement...cutting the patch larger than tear and then follow the directions on the can".  Where can I find contact cement - and is it an actual piece of canvas I am using for the patch?  

Michele

I was wondering the same thing about the inron-on patches, and plan on getting some this weekend to repair a few spots. As for the "contact cement", you should be able to find it at any craft store.

Jennifer

[Gone-Camping]

Perhaps it's time you consider spending $700 or so for new canvas! You said you got the trailer for next to nothing, and this would be money well spent...it'll look AND smell mighty nice too! Check out bearcreekcanvas.com for more info...

[K&TsMom]

Thanks Jennifer...I thought I was the only one who was feeling clueless!  We spent all we have on the trailer...and it will definitely be on ongoing project.  Maybe someday we can get new canvas...but I haven't found that money tree yet in my backyard    I will keep looking.  As for now, we have to try and salvage what we got.  I just don't want DH to get the duct tape out...

[mike4947]

I've used both the iron on patches and ones like they have in the PUT store. I prefer the sticky ones like in the store.
The iron on ones do need heat to get them to stay stuck. We'd make it a two person job, with one on the ones side holding a folded up towel to the canvas and the other on the other side using the iron. There are probably easier ways but that's what worked for us.
The ones in the PUT store are definitely easier to use.
 
As for the velcro bunk end sides. No worries about kids falling out of them as long as the velcro is still "sticky". It holds better than the bungy cords. You can try it by climbing in the bunk end and attemping to get it to release. I could never do it from inside the trailer. Had to go outside and pull.

[TroutBum]

I posted this in a differnt thread tonight, but it works for you as well...

" I am yet to need to repair my PU, but I have a 12 year old Jeep Wrangler softtop, and there is one product I love for fixing seams and sewing on canvas patches. It is called a speedy stitcher and is designed specifically for sewing canvas. It does the same lock stitch as a sewing machine, but is basically an awl that has a hole in it and holds/feeds thread. It is available from REI among other places. After sewing, I reccomend applying a silicone product like seam grip over the repaired area."

I don't know how to insert a link directly to the items, but both the stitcher and Seam Grip are available at //www.rei.com just search for "stitcher" and "Seam Grip".

Hope this works for you... (too)

[SpeakEasy]

The complete instructions for the iron-on patches are right with the patch when you buy it. Yes, you use an iron, set to the temperature they tell you in the directions. Yes, the patch has to be cut larger than the hole. I cut mine in an oval shape to avoid angles which would tend to peel off. No, you don't need one on the inside and outside. As long as the patch is larger than the hole, there is a good strong bond. The heat-activated glue is very strong. I actually set an ironing board up inside my tent and lowered the tent onto it where my hole was. (The hole was in the roof.) Then I went outside the tent and ironed the patch into place. The hardest part (and it wasn't that hard) was making sure I didn't iron a crease into the canvas as I was attaching the patch. You want it to be perfectly flat and smooth.

It wasn't a two-person job, but this was a large tent rather than a popup.

I hope this helps.

[cjpoppin]

Taken from our Jayco manual....Exterior:If the tent becomes dirty, use a damp cloth or sponge with water. DO NOT USE DETERGENTS SOAPS OR SOLVENTS SINCE THEY MAY REMOVE WATER REPELLENCY,FIRE RETARDANTS, AND DAMAGE THE SURFACE OR COLOR. Do not use acrosol type cleaners. Do not use insect repellent,hair sprays or suntan lotions around fabrics as they may stain fabrics and damage or destroy water repellency.  If accidental contact occurs,apply fabric protector or utilize a professional to provide water repellant treatment.  Be sure to clean bird droppings, tree sap, dirt and soot from campfires off of the tent.
Assure that your canvas and trailer have good ventilation, especially after a rainy period.  The most common cause of a damaged canvas is mildew, which is the result of storing your unit for any period of time with a damp or wet canvas, even for short periods.  This is even more important in humid climates.  If the tent must be stored wet, open the unit and allow it to dry throughly as soon as possible.
For vinyl awning, use only nonabrasive cleaners with warm water and a sponge to remove excess dirt and grime.  Do not use cleaners with a bleach ingredient.  Chlorine or bleach will strip the finish and color from your vinyl.
If water seepage occurs in the seams of the vinyl awning, you may want to apply a spray type water sealant on sewn seams......

Hope this information helps you .....  carol

[luvourjayco]

I just bought some iron on patches at Wally World and patch a SPUT on my older Jayco. I bought the kahki coloured ones and it matched perfectly. I was amazed by how well it sealed up. Because our tear was in a seam that I could not stitch back together I applied the patch to the inside with great result. I am thinking of putting the stop fray stuff on the outside though. Since these patches are made to be applied to clothing and washed, I am simply going to rewaterproof the area and keep an eye on it to make sure there is no leaking.

We have used the water/bleach/vinegar combo after camping in some really humid weather with good results. Be very careful you don't breathe it in or get it on anything else because it will bleach the colour out. I used a lot of water and a sponge to make sure all the solution was removed from the canvas.

Good luck with the restoration. We are all too quick to throw things out now a days. Make it a labour of love and it will pay off in the end.