Finger tight.

[Done Working]

OK gang.
What is the correct definition of finger tight when tightening the large centre nut? After repacking and replacing the wheel bearing.

[wavery]

OK gang.
What is the correct definition of finger tight when tightening the large centre nut? After repacking and replacing the wheel bearing.

Just tighten it down snug with a pair of pliers, then back it off 1/4 turn. The problem with "Finger tight" is, you may have a thick layer of grease between the bearing and race. Tightening it down "Snug" then backing off 1/4 turn is a safer option IMHO. It squeezes the grease out from between the bearing and race.

The important part is installing a new cotter pin and bending it back in both directions. The cotter pin is what keeps the nut from turning out and your wheel falling off. It's probably the A#1 most important part on your entire trailer. Don't skimp, it only costs $.10.

Once you've installed the cotter pin, give the wheel a good spin then try to move the wheel side to side. If you feel play, do it over again......Up snug, back off 1/4 turn.

[mike4947]

Good advice except for the 1/4 turn. All the literature says tighten and back off to the first notch in the castle nut.
 
From the Dexter bearing, seal, hub service section:
 
 
 

1. After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut

back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the

previous section on hub removal, rotate the hub assembly

slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50

lbs.-ft. (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force.)

2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. [/size][/font]Do not

rotate the hub.

[/i][/size][/font]3. Finger tighten the spindle nut until just snug.

4. Back the spindle nut out slightly until the first castellation

lines up with the cotter key hole and insert the cotter pin.

[/size][/font]

[wavery]

Good advice except for the 1/4 turn. All the literature says tighten and back off to the first notch in the castle nut.
 
From the Dexter bearing, seal, hub service section:
 
 
 

while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50

lbs.-ft. (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force.)

2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. [/size][/font]Do not

rotate the hub.

[/i][/size][/font]3. Finger tighten the spindle nut until just snug.

4. Back the spindle nut out slightly until the first castellation

 
[/size][/font]

You might want to re-read that. It doesn't say "tighten and back off to the first notch in the castle nut".

I think that you will find that procedure is about as close to backing off 1/4 turn (from snug) as you're going to get. Will probably find the cotter key in about the same hole.

The poster's question is a valid one. "What is the correct definition of finger tight". The proceedure that I quoted is what I was taught and taught others for many years. Trust me, it works. I've probably done it 100 times and have never had a wheel bearing failure.

[mike4947]

First castellation is the first notch in the castle nut. Usually this amounts to at most an 1/8 turn. I always get a laugh at folks who know better than the manufacturers of the product. Or the ever famous "we've always done it that way."

[wavery]

First castellation is the first notch in the castle nut. Usually this amounts to at most an 1/8 turn. I always get a laugh at folks who know better than the manufacturers of the product. Or the ever famous "we've always done it that way."

I always get a kick out of people that don't read instructions properly. He did not say "Tighten it down then back it off a notch".

You still didn't read the guys instructions. He said to torque it down to 50 ft lbs then back it off, then "Finger tighten", then back it off 1 notch.

I can just about guarantee you that it will end up in the same slot in the castle nut, (depending on what "Finger tight" means) if you just tighten it down snuggly and back it off 1/4 turn.

I'm not quite sure what you don't understand about that or why you are criticizing the age old "Crank it down & back it off a 1/4" method for. I'll bet that anyone here, that ever had any automobile training, was taught that way. You are quoting from one person's article. I'm not saying that he is wrong. I'm just saying that it just a more complicated way of getting the same results. There-in, this poster posed the question, "What is the correct definition of finger tight".

[tlhdoc]

You are quoting from one person's article. I'm not saying that he is wrong. I'm just saying that it just a more complicated way of getting the same results.

First what Mike copied and posted was not just from some guy, it is from Dexter's website.  In case you didn't know Dexter makes most if not all axels for PU trailers and many other trailers, so I would think they would be telling you the correct way to do this.  
 

I always get a kick out of people that don't read instructions properly. He did not say "Tighten it down then back it off a notch".

That is correct, the directions from the manufacture did not say to tighten and then back it off.  I think you were the one that said it, but you didn't say a "notch", you said 1/4 turn.  If Mike said that I missed it.
 

I can just about guarantee you that it will end up in the same slot in the castle nut, (depending on what "Finger tight" means) if you just tighten it down snuggly and back it off 1/4 turn.

I'm not quite sure what you don't understand about that or why you are criticizing the age old "Crank it down & back it off a 1/4" method for.

Well here is a problem with your way of doing it.  I am sure that you have more upper body strength than I do, so when you tighten it down snuggly and I tighten it down snuggly, it will be tightened to two different levels.  I probably would not have used enough force so it may not have seated properly.  By following Dexter's instructions and using a tool (torque wrench)  I would do it correctly.  
 

I'll bet that anyone here, that ever had any automobile training, was taught that way.

There are many, many people here that have not had any automobile training.  I am one of them.
 

The poster's question is a valid one. "What is the correct definition of finger tight".

I don't think anyone questioned the validity of the question.  It was an excellent question and Mike's post has let me know that Dexter has directions on their website that are very useful.  I would feel more comfortable in repacking my own bearings now.  Thank you Gone Camping and Mike.

[Done Working]

You are very welcome tlhdoc.
I didn't think this would cause such a healthy discussion.  I always wondered what finger tight really means. So I asked the question. Like you said everybody

[wavery]

Glad that you got your question answered .

My main concern was that you did not read the directions from Dexter Bearings "Guy" the same way that Mike4947 did in his first post:
"All the literature says tighten and back off to the first notch in the castle nut."

That was simply a mis-interpretation of what "Some guy" at Dexter's wrote in his technical instructions. I never questioned his instructions, all I said was that it accomplishes the same thing as mine. However, "tighten and back off to the first notch in the castle nut" would be far too tight. Just didn't want you (and others) to mis-understand the instructions also. Sorry if I seemed confrontational. That wasn't my intent. I just didn't want you (or others) to get your ball bearings in an uproar