Receiver Hitch

[dkradcliffe]

Just bought a new vehicle and are searching for a Pop-Up....Saving for is probably a better description.  Stupid Question follows:

Should I install the cheapest receiver hitch or are there some favorites out there?  The new vehicle is a 2006 Toyota Sienna.

[CAPEd CODger]

I think that depends on what the vehicle is capable of handling.
Why spend the extra $$$$ on a hitch that can carry more than the vehicle is rated for?
Check your car's specs, and go accordingly.

Before you even consider any trailer, check and see what the vehicle is able to tow. Don't believe any salesperson that says "Oh you can pull this just fine with your vehicle".

Best of luck in your search.

Bob

[fritz_monroe]

My money says that all the name brands are pretty much the same.  I have looked at the WDH from a couple different brands and they look exactly the same.  Personally, I wouldn't feel safe installing a blue light special receiver.  I'd put the couple extra bucks into a name brand.  I have a Reese and a Draw-Tite receiver and both seem the same quality.  I know some prefer Hidden Hitch.  Go to E-trailer and see what's available for your vehicle.

Of course this is after you have determined what your vehicle can really[/url] tow.

[wynot]

I think that depends on what the vehicle is capable of handling.
Why spend the extra $$$$ on a hitch that can carry more than the vehicle is rated for?
Check your car's specs, and go accordingly.
 
Bob

I agree with Bob in principle, but at least make it a 2" receiver hitch, it gives a lot more options for other things than the 1.25" hitches do.  I also personally would prefer to have a higher capacity hitch than I need, just for reserve capability.  It is still going to be limited to the vehicle's tow rating.

[raptor]

I would also guess that brands differ little.  You can save some money if you know the weight of your eventual trailer and the capacity of your car, etc.  

As an example, my vehicle has a max towing capacity of 5000 in the owner's manual, but I also have a trailer that maxes out (even when fully loaded) at 2300 or so with tongue weight of 250 or so *max*.  So, a Class III hitch was overkill for me even thought my vehicle could handle it in theory.  I opted for a cheaper Class II hitch instead, which is plenty capable of handling the weights (gross and tongue) of my trailer.

Also, from recent research on this stuff (I'm admittedly a relative newbie here), the general consensus is that towing will eat up your transmission due to high heat if you don't have an auxilliary trans cooler.  You might have one from the factory.  If not, get one.  I just bought one for 52 dollars and installed it myself today.

[wynot]

I would also guess that brands differ little. You can save some money if you know the weight of your eventual trailer and the capacity of your car, etc.
 
As an example, my vehicle has a max towing capacity of 5000 in the owner's manual, but I also have a trailer that maxes out (even when fully loaded) at 2300 or so with tongue weight of 250 or so *max*. So, a Class III hitch was overkill for me even thought my vehicle could handle it in theory. I opted for a cheaper Class II hitch instead, which is plenty capable of handling the weights (gross and tongue) of my trailer.
 

Just a couple of thoughts, if I saw an undersized (but used) hitch on a TV capable of towing much more, I would wonder what abuse it had suffered.  Also, if I was looking for a used TV, and I needed the ability to tow a 4,000 lb trailer and all I saw was a little Class II hitch, I would keep looking for another TV, rather than mess with having to replace the hitch.  The difference in price between Class II and Class III is miniscule.  But that's my opinion.

[raptor]

Just a couple of thoughts, if I saw an undersized (but used) hitch on a TV capable of towing much more, I would wonder what abuse it had suffered.  Also, if I was looking for a used TV, and I needed the ability to tow a 4,000 lb trailer and all I saw was a little Class II hitch, I would keep looking for another TV, rather than mess with having to replace the hitch.  The difference in price between Class II and Class III is miniscule.  But that's my opinion.

Valid points.  

Of course beyond the numbers it boils down to personal preference and how much flexibility you want.  Fortunately, I plan to drive this vehicle in one capacity or another until it drives no more (and scavenge the hitch from it) and am not too concerned with resale at the moment.  It's been paid for for years already and still has many years left (I hope).  2000 Jeep Cherokee, 58k miles.

[howlinowl]

I just installed a class III hitch on my 1996 Ranger.  My PU is just a little taos, and the ranger is a 4 banger.  Overkill, maybe, but it was the only hitch the parts store had in stock.  I would have had to order a lesser hitch and the cost difference wasn't worth the wait for me.

Allan

[fritz_monroe]

One thing to think about is additional add ons.  There are tons of bike racks and other "things" that go into a 2" receiver.  You may have no intention of getting a rack mounted bike rack, but since you are obviously going to keep this TV for a long time, you might decide to get a bike rack some day.  Then since you are going to keep the TV until it dies, then scavenge the hitch, your next trailer might be bigger.  So you might need to get a different receiver then.  Might as well get it now, the price difference it minor.

[calstate360]

Just bought a new vehicle and are searching for a Pop-Up....Saving for is probably a better description. Stupid Question follows:
 
Should I install the cheapest receiver hitch or are there some favorites out there? The new vehicle is a 2006 Toyota Sienna.

I would get a truck and a Reese. The hitches are all made by Reese no matter what name they put on them, except for the "Helmsley Arrow"
I just bought a "5th Airborn" Made by Reese for our new 5th wheel. As we purchased a gap policy to cover all the things that were not included on the new 5er. and I wanted all the best, price was of no concern as it will only cost us $100 for all the addons.
 
They will all tow as designed as long as you follow the recomended tow weights. They just charge more for the ones with the fancy names on them even though they make them all. I have driven and towed everything from an empty utility trailer to a motorhome with a Diesel Tow Truck and a motorhome with a 1 ton Tow Truck. They all will tow bad with the wrong setup, and they all will tow good with the right setup.
Sal

[esclark]

I also tow with a mini van (Honda Odyssey).  I wouldn't worry about the hitch type until you find the right pop-up for your needs.  Watch the weight on the pop-up.  Better to error on the light side if in doubt.  

I just bought the Fleetwood Yuma.  We liked the Fleetwood brand for a number of reasons, one of them being that brakes are standard which is nice when towing with a mini van or smaller tow vehicle.

Best of luck in your search!

[dkradcliffe]

Thanks for all the feedback.  I think I will get the cheapest Class 3 I can find since the opinion is that they are all good enough quality!  You all are a good resource!

D