Weighing my cost...worth it?

[Brantime]

I purchased a used 1976 Coleman Gettysburg PU about a year and a half ago, and now I have a question concerning renovations!

I paid $1,000.00 for the trailer and then promply rebuilt the beds. The trailer is in good condition (except for the crank being hard to raise) and looks to be in fair condition!

My question is a basic one that all older PU owners must face...is the 1976 PU worth the cost of having the canvass replaced?

Bear Creek can make a replacement canvass to fit for about $750.00-$800.00. Not a bad price...but I will then have a couple of thousand into it, making it harder to replace.

You end up with a very useable camper, just a 1976 model!

What say ye!

Thanks guys!

[SpeakEasy]

Seems to me that it all depends on what your reasons are for owning it in the first place. If you own it for the purpose of camping in it, then having new canvas is almost certainly worth it. (Depending on the condition of what you're taking out, of course.)

On the other hand, if your purpose in owning it is to maintain an investment, then you probably won't recoup your investment in new canvas. After all, it isn't exactly an antique, is it?

[tlhdoc]

How bad of shape is the canvas in?  If you are planning on keeping it, I would.  If you are not going to keep it a few years I would not.

[Brantime]

How bad of shape is the canvas in?  If you are planning on keeping it, I would.  If you are not going to keep it a few years I would not.

Thanks for the responses...I guess the main problem is trying to value the trailer and the time that we want to use it!

It is an older trailer...however, old does not tanslate into an antique simply because it is old, lol!

The trailer is in good working condition, and even the appearance is not bad! The crank is the only real problem that I have not addressed as of yet, but is on my list to tackle.

The canvass has some places, such as around the doors and windows where the fabric in itself is wearing through!

We took the sections down ourself and sewed what we could, but now, I believe a new canvass is warranted...but is it justified?

We enjoy our camper and use it often; and I know that we did not purchase a 1976 camper as an investment, lol!

Simply put, is it worth putting more money into, or is it time to start cutting our loses and think about updating?

We would like to keep a PU for about 4-5 years longer, then trading up and considering going RV'ING FULL TIME.

Thanks for the helpful words!

[wavery]

It really depends on the condition of the rest of the camper. The problem is that you may have more in the camper than it is worth. If anything else goes wrong you will be obligated to go deeper and deeper in the hole. More than likely, the only reason that you are thinking about replacing the canvas is because you are vested in the repairs that you've already done. I would try not to make decissions based on emotion if it were me.

If the new canvas will put it in excellent condition and you feel confident that you won't have to put more $ in it for a few years of use, it may be worth it. However, if the appliances, tires, brakes, battery, wiring, converter, stove, water heater, fridge etc are all still original you may be digging a hole for yourself. In that case, you may be better off trying to get $500 for it and buying a 5 year-old PU for about $2500. In the long run, you may get better service for less out of a newer camper.

If the crank is hard, that's not good. I would clean all of the moving parts including all cables and pulleys with WD40. Then I would grease all of the parts with white lithium grease. Make sure that all of the pulleys move easily under load. If a pulley is sticking, you may soon break a cable.

30 years is a lot to ask for any trailer IMHO. These things are built pretty light and I just don't think that you can expect them to last forever. Metal fatigue will eventually take it's toll.

[dthurk]

It really depends on the condition of the rest of the camper. The problem is that you may have more in the camper than it is worth. If anything else goes wrong you will be obligated to go deeper and deeper in the hole. More than likely, the only reason that you are thinking about replacing the canvas is because you are vested in the repairs that you've already done. I would try not to make decissions based on emotion if it were me.

If the new canvas will put it in excellent condition and you feel confident that you won't have to put more $ in it for a few years of use, it may be worth it. However, if the appliances, tires, brakes, battery, wiring, converter, stove, water heater, fridge etc are all still original you may be digging a hole for yourself. In that case, you may be better off trying to get $500 for it and buying a 5 year-old PU for about $2500. In the long run, you may get better service for less out of a newer camper.

If the crank is hard, that's not good. I would clean all of the moving parts including all cables and pulleys with WD40. Then I would grease all of the parts with white lithium grease. Make sure that all of the pulleys move easily under load. If a pulley is sticking, you may soon break a cable.

30 years is a lot to ask for any trailer IMHO. These things are built pretty light and I just don't think that you can expect them to last forever. Metal fatigue will eventually take it's toll.

Generally, the pulleys and cables are lubed with a silicone spray, not grease.  You would use grease on the wiffle tree.  Given the age of the camper and the condition of hard cranking, I would thinking cleaning and lubing the wiffle tree would be in order.  I'm assuming, of course, that this camper has a wiffle tree lift system.  tlhdoc might be able to set us straight on this.  She's a terrific resource, she's got more information on Coleman/Fleetwood campers than most anyone else I know.

[wavery]

Generally, the pulleys and cables are lubed with a silicone spray, not grease.  You would use grease on the wiffle tree.  Given the age of the camper and the condition of hard cranking, I would thinking cleaning and lubing the wiffle tree would be in order.  I'm assuming, of course, that this camper has a wiffle tree lift system.  tlhdoc might be able to set us straight on this.  She's a terrific resource, she's got more information on Coleman/Fleetwood campers than most anyone else I know.

I personally feel that white lithium grease is more appropriate for the pulleys and cables than silicone spray. Silicone spray has very little lubricating properties and is not intended to carry a load. IMO it's great on drawer slides and even the bed rails because the load is spread out over a large area. I feel that the pulleys carry far to much load in a concentrated area for silicone (JMO). Lithium grease is very light weight as well. However, it does stick and doesn't need constant replacement it is also designed to carry a pretty good load. I would think that silicone might need to be replaced after each use or at least every 3 months, on the pulleys.

[tlhdoc]

I personally feel that white lithium grease is more appropriate for the pulleys and cables than silicone spray. Silicone spray has very little lubricating properties and is not intended to carry a load. IMO it's great on drawer slides and even the bed rails because the load is spread out over a large area. I feel that the pulleys carry far to much load in a concentrated area for silicone (JMO). Lithium grease is very light weight as well. However, it does stick and doesn't need constant replacement it is also designed to carry a pretty good load. I would think that silicone might need to be replaced after each use or at least every 3 months, on the pulleys.

I would worry about lithium grease dragging dirt into the pulleys.  I had a lift cable break from a piece of a rag being in the lifter arm.  Fleetwood and Coleman before them recommended silicone for the pulleys and cables.  I spray mine every 6 weeks or so during the camping season.  When it is down, partly up and all the way up.  That way I am sure I am hitting all of the parts of the cables.

[tlhdoc]

Given the age of the camper and the condition of hard cranking, I would thinking cleaning and lubing the wiffle tree would be in order. I'm assuming, of course, that this camper has a wiffle tree lift system. tlhdoc might be able to set us straight on this. She's a terrific resource, she's got more information on Coleman/Fleetwood campers than most anyone else I know.

Dave you are making me blush.  There are many people out there that know a whole lot more about the Coleman/Fleetwood trailers than I do, but to answer your question, yes there is a whiffle tree on the 1976 campers.  Coleman used the crank lift system with an Acme whiffle tree, since 1968 IIRC.

[Brantime]

I would worry about lithium grease dragging dirt into the pulleys.  I had a lift cable break from a piece of a rag being in the lifter arm.  Fleetwood and Coleman before them recommended silicone for the pulleys and cables.  I spray mine every 6 weeks or so during the camping season.  When it is down, partly up and all the way up.  That way I am sure I am hitting all of the parts of the cables.

As usual, you guys have given me alot to think about! I am leaning towards replacing the canvass as the overall trailer is in such good condition.

We totally rebuilt the beds with 3/4"  tounge and groove plywood after new railings had been installed.

I think that I will tackle the lift system this week, and then decide if I can get the lift opperating easily enough, to replace the canvass or not!

Do I need to take the front panel off to expose the whiffle tree prior to lubbing?

Thanks again!

[dthurk]

Dave you are making me blush.  There are many people out there that know a whole lot more about the Coleman/Fleetwood trailers than I do, but to answer your question, yes there is a whiffle tree on the 1976 campers.  Coleman used the crank lift system with an Acme whiffle tree, since 1968 IIRC.

I knew you'd know.  And you probably didn't even have to look it up.

[Recumbentman]

I purchased a used 1976 Coleman Gettysburg PU about a year and a half ago, and now I have a question concerning renovations!

I paid $1,000.00 for the trailer and then promply rebuilt the beds. The trailer is in good condition (except for the crank being hard to raise) and looks to be in fair condition!

My question is a basic one that all older PU owners must face...is the 1976 PU worth the cost of having the canvass replaced?

Bear Creek can make a replacement canvass to fit for about $750.00-$800.00. Not a bad price...but I will then have a couple of thousand into it, making it harder to replace.

You end up with a very useable camper, just a 1976 model!

What say ye!

Thanks guys!

Just wanted to mention that I had a 1997 Gettysburg and I know that those PU were built very solid. After you replace the canvas and use it for a few years. you will be able to sell it for what you paid for it easily.
Just my 2 cents, but you can't go wrong upgrading it and then selling it down the road. Hope you enjoy your PU as much as we did.

[wavery]

I would worry about lithium grease dragging dirt into the pulleys.  

You are right about that. Very good point.

White Lithium spray grease tends to be a bit sticky, after the solvents in the spray dry. When I did mine, I was careful to wipe the cables clean after spraying them. However, it may be best to use silicone on the cables. Personally, I will stick to a squirt of lithium grease on the pulleys (once a year). They are hard to get to and if they are greased once a year, they should last a long time. If you are concerned about the lithium grease being too sticky, You may want to consider a light oil, like 3-In-1 oil.

However, if you feel like servicing the pulleys & cables every couple months, the silicone may be adequate. My experience with silicone, in the automotive industry, is that it does not last very long.

BTW, (side point) you can buy silicone in pure liquid form. It can be wiped on with a rag or brush. Spray silicone has a lot of solvents and/or propellants in it. With the spray, you actually end up with very little silicone on the surface that you are servicing.

If you put a little on a rag, you can wipe it on the bed rails and leave a nice coat, while wiping off the dust at the same time. Spraying tends to get silicone everywhere, including your lungs and you may be spraying a dirty surface. Running a soaked rag over the cables will accomplish the same thing. You would want to make sure that the rag has enough silicone to give the cable a good soaking though. It needs to penetrate all of the strands of wire.

[Brantime]

Just wanted to mention that I had a 1997 Gettysburg and I know that those PU were built very solid. After you replace the canvas and use it for a few years. you will be able to sell it for what you paid for it easily.
Just my 2 cents, but you can't go wrong upgrading it and then selling it down the road. Hope you enjoy your PU as much as we did.

Hey thanks for the imput on the Gettysburg...we have enjoyed it so far! We have taken it out several times, even to neighboring states, and just love the way it handles on the road, and while camping.

Have you lubed the lifting system on your Gettysburg since you have had it? I am trying to determine if I need to disassemble the outside covering to get to the whiffle tree or from the inside :eyecrazy:

Thanks again!

[Recumbentman]

Hey thanks for the imput on the Gettysburg...we have enjoyed it so far! We have taken it out several times, even to neighboring states, and just love the way it handles on the road, and while camping.

Have you lubed the lifting system on your Gettysburg since you have had it? I am trying to determine if I need to disassemble the outside covering to get to the whiffle tree or from the inside :eyecrazy:

Thanks again!

Brantime
you know i had that Gettysburg for over 18 years. I had no one to tell me right from wrong. it wasn't until i found these forms that i learn I had been doing a lot of setup steps wrong. I used to use the stabilizers as jacks and would lift the tire off the ground if needed to level the PU. I never lube the bearing or whiffle tree. ( didn't know I was supposed too !!!) and through all that it held up fine.
To answer your question!! I remember reading here that you access the whiffle from under the PU. there should be an access cover that you remove to get to it.
do a search here for whiffle repair manual. someone here as the PDF file that you can copy. and as mentioned above don't forget your bearings