Newbie AC question

[cpnudge]

We just purchased our first pop up camper.  It's a 1999 Coleman Niagra with a slideout.  It's a beautiful camper, we just need ac.  How hard is it to install a roof mount ac in a unit without a roof vent?  What about the wiring?

Great sight  and thanks in advance for your help.

[tlhdoc]

Welcome to PUT.  If you are a handy person you can install one yourself, with a helper.  The big thing is putting the saw to the roof.  One mistake and you have a real problem.  Now that I have said that, there are a good number of people that have installed their own AC unit.  I will recommend the Carrier Air V with the heat option.  It comes with the instructions and a template for cutting the hole.  As far as wiring the AC, most PUs have a long cord coming from the AC unit with a plug on the end to plug into the 20 amp outlet in the trailer.  Good luck.

[mike4947]

As an addition, look at the ceiling of your trailer. You'll find 4 little "buttons". They mark the corners of a 14" square which is the standard opening for a roof vent or an air conditioner. That's where you cut.

[cpnudge]

Welcome to PUT.  If you are a handy person you can install one yourself, with a helper.  The big thing is putting the saw to the roof.  One mistake and you have a real problem.  Now that I have said that, there are a good number of people that have installed their own AC unit.  I will recommend the Carrier Air V with the heat option.  It comes with the instructions and a template for cutting the hole.  As far as wiring the AC, most PUs have a long cord coming from the AC unit with a plug on the end to plug into the 20 amp outlet in the trailer.  Good luck.

We have a furnace with a thermostat but no ac.  Seems strange to me. Do you think we still need a heat strip? Also, I've heard we shouldn't go with a small unit and over kill would probably be best.  We will be camping mostly at the beach in very sunny locations.   Do you think the 12,000 BTU range would be good?

 Can you recomend a certain saw and or blade to cut the hole?  Would a roto zip be better?

Thanks so much!

[cpnudge]

As an addition, look at the ceiling of your trailer. You'll find 4 little "buttons". They mark the corners of a 14" square which is the standard opening for a roof vent or an air conditioner. That's where you cut.

Thanks soooooooooo much.  We will pop up our unit this week to make sure the holes are there!
Great tip!

[wynot]

We have a furnace with a thermostat but no ac. Seems strange to me. Do you think we still need a heat strip? Also, I've heard we shouldn't go with a small unit and over kill would probably be best. We will be camping mostly at the beach in very sunny locations. Do you think the 12,000 BTU range would be good?
 
Can you recomend a certain saw and or blade to cut the hole? Would a roto zip be better?
 
Thanks so much!

Your furnace is propane fired.  Ever since we installed our heat strip in our AC, we haven't used the furnace.
 
You will be looking at 13,500 btu a/c, a 15,000 would freeze you out.  We've used ours all over the Maryland, VA, and DE shores with no problem.  Our two outings this year have been to North Carolina and South Carolina with temps close to 100 and 100% humidity.  No problem.
 
I've never cut my roof, but I would assume it would be the normal markoff, drill corner holes, and use a sawzall.  Although I am pretty competent with power tools, I don't know that I would want to make that cut in the roof myself.  That roof is not cheap to replace.

[dpomroy]

We have a furnace with a thermostat but no ac.  Seems strange to me. Do you think we still need a heat strip? Also, I've heard we shouldn't go with a small unit and over kill would probably be best.  We will be camping mostly at the beach in very sunny locations.   Do you think the 12,000 BTU range would be good?

 Can you recomend a certain saw and or blade to cut the hole?  Would a roto zip be better?

Thanks so much!

First off, Let me welcome you to PUT. Now as for the AC unit. I recently installed a Carrier AirV 13,500 BTU in my PU, and it was alot easier than I thought. I had to cut a hole in the roof which was the hardest part. But It went smooth.

I used the template that came with the AC unit and simply copied the template to the roof and followed it along. I cut the hole from the outside, don't cut from inside the PU. I have heard horror stories aboput cutting from the inside of the PU. Also remember to put a sheet inside to catch all of the saw dust from your cutting.

I did use a ROTO ZIP tool which worked well, just don't force it let the tool do the work. This will keep you from breaking the bit.

Good luck

[zamboni]

Also, if your AC-less camper does not already have it, you may need to install the internal roof brace (prevents sagging, especially with the weight of the AC).  Our Niagara, and all those that we've seen (granted, they had AC's) had the brace.

[cpnudge]

Also, if your AC-less camper does not already have it, you may need to install the internal roof brace (prevents sagging, especially with the weight of the AC).  Our Niagara, and all those that we've seen (granted, they had AC's) had the brace.

I'm assuming the roof brace is the bar on the inside of the camper about 2" square.  If so, we already have a roof brace.  Where is the ac located in your niagra?   Is it in the back right corner as you step into the camper?

[tlhdoc]

I'm assuming the roof brace is the bar on the inside of the camper about 2" square. If so, we already have a roof brace. Where is the ac located in your niagra? Is it in the back right corner as you step into the camper?

The standard 13,500 btu AC should be fine, but you have a larger PU and may want to go with the 15,000 btu unit.  I also have a propane furnace, but if it is chilly or cold and we have an electric campsite we use their electric and save the propane.  I have used my AC on heat more than on AC.  That may change next week when we go on a 2 week trip, IF the heat wave keeps up.
 
My 1999 came with the roof brace and your trailer does too.  Mike is correct about the 4 buttons in the ceiling being the location for the hole.  If you go with the Carrier you may only have to cut ?two? round holes and not the 14 inch square hole.  Then if you make a mistake you can always go back and cut the 14 inch hole.  Good luck on the project.

[cpnudge]

The standard 13,500 btu AC should be fine, but you have a larger PU and may want to go with the 15,000 btu unit.  I also have a propane furnace, but if it is chilly or cold and we have an electric campsite we use their electric and save the propane.  I have used my AC on heat more than on AC.  That may change next week when we go on a 2 week trip, IF the heat wave keeps up.
 
My 1999 came with the roof brace and your trailer does too.  Mike is correct about the 4 buttons in the ceiling being the location for the hole.  If you go with the Carrier you may only have to cut ?two? round holes and not the 14 inch square hole.  Then if you make a mistake you can always go back and cut the 14 inch hole.  Good luck on the project.

Just checked, we do have the holes.  This eliminates the "where do I cut" problem.  I think we're going to get the heat strip option.  It seems like it is only a $50 difference.  

Thanks for the good wishes. Love all the great information here!   I'm sure I'll have another question soon!

[zamboni]

Where is the ac located in your niagra?

Our (old) Niagara had the AC pretty close to the middle of the roof - very close to the steel brace.

Definitely get the AC with the heat strip.  I installed a heat strip on our hybrid's AC this past February, and we've used it quite a bit.

The advantages are:
1)  Uses campground electricity instead of your own propane
2) "built in", so does not take up floor or counter space
3) The fan in the AC "pushes" the air into the bunks, making the camper far more evenly warmed than a heater in the middle.

Bear in mind:  It is a 1500 watt heat strip.  The same as a stand-alone unit, or hair dryer.  Bear in mind, because the AC's fan pushes much more air over the heating elements, it may feel "cooler" than you'd expect.  Many people thus say it is "worthless".  However, the unit is still transferring 1500 watts of heat into your camper, and pushing it onto the bunks is where it is needed most.  Definitely the best, economical, upgrade I've done so far.

[tlhdoc]

If you get the Carrier Air V you have to buy the inside section with the heat when you buy the AC.  You can not add the heat to the AC at a later date like the Coleman Mach AC units.

[cpnudge]

If you get the Carrier Air V you have to buy the inside section with the heat when you buy the AC.  You can not add the heat to the AC at a later date like the Coleman Mach AC units.

I think we are going to order a 13,500 BTU Carrier Air V with the freeblow ceiling assembly w/ heat option.  I have found it on the internet for about $500 complete. I will assume the ceiling assembly doesn't hamper the pup's ability to close properly :confused: .  I'm hoping to order one from a vendor that my employer does business with and save a bit of coin .  I'll let everyone know when we have completed the project.  Cross your fingers!

[moose1959]

We just purchased our first pop up camper.  It's a 1999 Coleman Niagra with a slideout.  It's a beautiful camper, we just need ac.  How hard is it to install a roof mount ac in a unit without a roof vent?  What about the wiring?

Great sight  and thanks in advance for your help.

Hi,
But the unit new! It should be about a 13500 btu, and it will come with a template to cut the hole. As far as the wring, it has a plug-in style and plugs in the outlet under your table. It took me about 3 hours to do my Coleman/Fleetwood Bayside. Brrr it does kick even on the warmest days.
Jay