Brake Controller Qs...

[RCA]

Mmmkay, we're towing our 1600 lb Jayco with our Toyota Sienna.  Still relatively new to popups / towing but thanks to the good people on this message board, we went and had the brakes installed last summer, which has brought us great peace of mind.

What would be considered good settings for the brake controller?  And what's the best method to determine that?  The installers set the voltage/timing at 6.5/5 respectively, which was awfully grabby.  We've fiddled with it some and now have it at 3.5/4... better but maybe not ideal.  It is a "towing products" controller (prolly not the best on the market, but certainly adequate for our situation).

[AustinBoston]

Mmmkay, we're towing our 1600 lb Jayco with our Toyota Sienna.  Still relatively new to popups / towing but thanks to the good people on this message board, we went and had the brakes installed last summer, which has brought us great peace of mind.

What would be considered good settings for the brake controller?  And what's the best method to determine that?  The installers set the voltage/timing at 6.5/5 respectively, which was awfully grabby.  We've fiddled with it some and now have it at 3.5/4... better but maybe not ideal.  It is a "towing products" controller (prolly not the best on the market, but certainly adequate for our situation).

What brand and model controller do you have?  I suspect from your post that you have a timer-based controller.  If that is the case, you will never be happy with it because it is impossible to get it right more than 40% of the time.

Austin

[dtamez]

I went through the 'less expensive" brake controller, then bought a prodigy.

One time setup, not grabby, works every time.

I pull a coleman Niagara 12 ft box at about 3500 pounds.

Worth the extra money and peace of mind.

Dano

[RCA]

It is a Draw-tite and yes, it is a timer based unit.  Perhaps being novices is to our advantage here, as we are not at all familiar with what else is out there.  

Our camping pals (former PU owners who changed up to 5th wheel) have just suggested starting with a very low voltage setting of 2 - given that our PU is so small (8') and light - which may be all we need... and just play around with it on local roads.  Still vague on how the timing part of it factors in, though.

[copcarguy]

As said before, I would recommend the Prodigy first, Voyager a distant second. Trust me in that the Prodigy is WELL worth the extra cash you pay for it. It has diagnostic modes should something go wrong. It will tell you if it's connected to the trailer and will flash "NC" (not connected)if the trailer becomes unplugged. It is simple and easy to install. U-Haul actually sells a re-badged Prodigy and tacks on like $50 for their sticker covering the Tekonsha one.  The Prodigy doesn't have to be leveled or anything...  I wouldn't tow without trailer brakes and I wouldn't control the brakes with anything other than a Prodigy. I have had many, many different controllers over the years and I wouldn't trust my family's safety to anything else, well maybe except a Voyager, but for the small price difference why not get the top of the line? I have seen Prodigy's online for as low as $99, do a search and I'm sure you'll find a deal!



Also, I would NOT recommend a "time based" controller. Basically, these are just a timer. When you step on the brake pedal, it just counts a few seconds before delivering whatever the maximum power you set it at. In a panic stop, I don't want my brake controller waiting three seconds before putting out full power. On the other hand, if I am slowly coming up to a red light, I don't need 100% power at that moment, which will lock up the trailer wheels. Time based controllers end up being very "jerky" and will wear out the trailer brakes a LOT faster! Look for a "proportional" (ie: Prodigy, etc.) controller, which knows the difference between slowing rolling up to a stop sign, and when both feet are smashing the brake pedal to the floor because a kid ran out in front of you. Check out http://www.brakecontroller.com/differencevideo.htm they might be able to explain it better than me...

Click here to also see a video on how easy it is to install and set up a controller:
http://www.rvwholesalers.com/resources/prodigy.wmv

I HOPE THIS HELPED!!

[AustinBoston]

It is a Draw-tite and yes, it is a timer based unit.  Perhaps being novices is to our advantage here, as we are not at all familiar with what else is out there.

Our camping pals (former PU owners who changed up to 5th wheel) have just suggested starting with a very low voltage setting of 2 - given that our PU is so small (8') and light - which may be all we need... and just play around with it on local roads.  Still vague on how the timing part of it factors in, though.

Timer based controllers work by gradually increasing the braking as you hold the brake pedal down, until they hit the maximum gain (voltage) that you set.  How long it takes to reach max. gain is the timer setting.

If you set the gain low, then in an urgent situation when you need the brakes the most, you will not get them.  If you set the gain high enough to deal with the panic stop, then the brakes will always be grabby in other situations.

The timer decides how long it takes the brakes to reach the full voltage gain.  If you set it long, the brakes will come on gradually.  In a panic stop, the trailer brakes will come on and reach full after the collision.  If you set it short, you will never be able to come to a gradual stop.  The pop-up brakes will end up pulling on the tow vehicle, and you will find yourself pumping the brake to get the controller to let go.

The only alternative is to be constantly fiddling with the settings.  Turn it up on the highway, turn it down in the city, and it will always be wrong in that panic stop when you really need the brakes.

There is nothing - absolutely nothing - you can do to overcome these problems besides replace it with a better controller.

People who have used both timer-based and inertial controllers never go back to the timer controller.  In my opinion, they should be outlawed.  

Inertial controllers (one type of proportional controller) respond to how rapidly you are slowing, not how long you have been slowing.  So if you give a light touch to the brakes, you get little or no pop-up braking.  Hit the brakes hard, and the pop-up brakes give you all they have - instantly.  Make changes in how hard you are braking (you do this whether you realize it or not) and the pop-up brakes will adjust to follow you.

In my opinion, timer based controllers should be outlawed.  If you look around, you will find inertial controllers that cost little more than the vastly inferior timer-based controller you have.  But if you put the money down for a Tekonsha Prodigy ($140-$170) you will never look back.

If you can find a way to afford it, get a Tekonsha Prodigy.  If you can't, get a Voyager.  But get rid of that timer-based controller.  You will never be happy with it.

Austin

[wynot]

Mmmkay, we're towing our 1600 lb Jayco with our Toyota Sienna. Still relatively new to popups / towing but thanks to the good people on this message board, we went and had the brakes installed last summer, which has brought us great peace of mind.
 
What would be considered good settings for the brake controller? And what's the best method to determine that? The installers set the voltage/timing at 6.5/5 respectively, which was awfully grabby. We've fiddled with it some and now have it at 3.5/4... better but maybe not ideal. It is a "towing products" controller (prolly not the best on the market, but certainly adequate for our situation).

Buy a Prodigy, remove new/old controller, open trash can lid, insert new/old controller, close lid.  Install Prodigy.  Alternate disposal methods - skeet shooting target, wheel chock, yard sales...
 
You will continue to have grabby brakes with that controller.  If you set it too low, then you are not using the camper brakes much.  It just approaches all stops as the same type.  And because you are using a minivan, it makes it real obvious.  Stop and go traffic is particularily bad with a time delay controller, because it will take 3-5 mph stops the same as 65 mph.

[RCA]

Many many thanks all, this is extremely helpful.  Thanks CCG for including the video links; they were just the thing.  
We are heading out on the season opener camping trip next weekend (Tuttle Creek S.P., KS)... will be a good opportunity to play around with the controller and see how this forum's theories and opinions apply.  Will visit back with the post-trip rollup!

[AustinBoston]

Will visit back with the post-trip rollup!

Please do; newbie's observations and experiences are more valuable than you may realize.

Austin

[astrowolf67]

Not trying to hijack the thread, but I currently have a Tekonsha Voyager, and, have thought about upgrading to the Prodigy.  Is the wiring harness and plug the same on both?

I like the Voyager better than a timer based unit, but still have the problem of getting it set right, and constantly having to fiddle with it.

David

[wavery]

Prodigy :-()

[GeneF]

Have to echo echo echo echo everyone else's suggestion that you get the Prodigy.

It paid for itself the first time I was driving down the road and did not see the big "C" for connected.  Yup a stupid thing to do but I  didn't put the plug in all the way, jumped in and took off.

Pulled off and fixed it as soon as I saw it.  Now, if the C ain't there, the truck doesn't move.  Other codes and features make it worth it.  I set it at the beginning of the season and very seldom touch it after that.  Mainly in mountains if I want a bit more grab going down the steep hills.

Dealer talked me into a Voyager when I got the Kiwi.  Used it to tow the Mesa to the dealers to trade in.  Voyager came out and the Prodigy went in after the one tow.