Can I raise the PU roof with a drill?

[outdoors5]

Can I raise my PU roof using a drill?  I have a 2000 Coleman/Fleetwood Niagara 12ft box PU.  There is an air conditionar on the roof.  I am concerned about the added weight of the AC and the size of the roof on a 12ft box.  If so what is the minimum voltage for a cordless drill and what about a plug in drill.  I am aware that I will need adapters to attach the drill to the lift.

[wavery]

Can I raise my PU roof using a drill?  I have a 2000 Coleman/Fleetwood Niagara 12ft box PU.  There is an air conditionar on the roof.  I am concerned about the added weight of the AC and the size of the roof on a 12ft box.  If so what is the minimum voltage for a cordless drill and what about a plug in drill.  I am aware that I will need adapters to attach the drill to the lift.

I've been using this electric drill for a long time:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93632

We have a 2002 Coleman Tacoma. 12' box with A/C.

[tlhdoc]

If you want to use a cordless drill, you should get one that is at least 18 volts, has metal gears, and 350 to 400 pounds of torque.

[sandykayak]

I've been using this electric drill for a long time:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93632

We have a 2002 Coleman Tacoma. 12' box with A/C.

for the ignorant:  how many volts does this one have?

I got an 18-volt Dewalt cordless.  Tried to buy a handle at Home Depot and was told it had to come with the drill, so it's awkward to brace with my knee.    Also, one day it was making a weird noise and wasn't gripping.

the harborfreight price is good.  i have an 8' Jayco...presumably this would be better than what I have - it's used at home, so it wasn't a loss.

tx

[fritz_monroe]

Hey Waverly, do you use this drill?  Many electric drills do not have a whole lot of torque at low speed.

I tried using my Craftsman 18V drill to raise my roof and it was straining so much that I decided that I'd rather crank it instead of possibily ruin my current drill.  But when it's time for a new drill, enough torque to raise the roof will be one of my requirements.

[Tim5055]

Raise the Roof! - My Drill Lift System

You need at least 400 inch pounds of torque (generally)  If the drill dosn't list it on the box, it probably doesn't have it

[wavery]

Hey Waverly, do you use this drill?  Many electric drills do not have a whole lot of torque at low speed.

I tried using my Craftsman 18V drill to raise my roof and it was straining so much that I decided that I'd rather crank it instead of possibily ruin my current drill.  But when it's time for a new drill, enough torque to raise the roof will be one of my requirements.

I've used it at least 30-50 times. It's a 110V drill. I use it with my generator and it does a great job.

If I had it to do over again, I think that I would buy this one though:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44790

It goes on sale for $69 every once in a while. I would like the 340RPM instead of the one that I have (550RPM). Mine runs the top up sort of fast but it goes up smooth and easy.

A lot of people like this DeWalt cordless drill. I just don't want to spend that much on a drill.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96009

[badabing67]

I use a craftsman 19.2 volt cordless with 510 inch pounds of torque in low gear and it will raise the roof in high or low. I also used it when leveling our 30ft. tt and it would just about pick the tires off the ground with the BAL jacks.

[curryp]

This may be a stupid question, but here goes.......What do you put in the drill to crank up the camper. The handle I have to hand crank doesn't seem like it would work. Do you use a deep socket of some size?

[wavery]

This may be a stupid question, but here goes.......What do you put in the drill to crank up the camper. The handle I have to hand crank doesn't seem like it would work. Do you use a deep socket of some size?

Not a stupid question at all. You are exactly right. You do need, "a deep socket of some size". It's called a "Socket Genie" and it's described in the link below.

http://www.title-3.com/EasyLift.htm

Some people have purchased a spare crank handle and cut the end off with a hacksaw. For best gripping power, you may need to grind three sides of the round bar flat, that you put into the drill. You don't need to make it a triangle. Just grind 3 flat spots (fairly evenly spaced) that your drill chuck can close down on and that will prevent it from slipping.

[tlhdoc]

I took a deep socket to a body shop and they cut a groove in each side so it would work with a drill.

[curryp]

Thanks Waverly........for two reasons.

1. For not thinking my question was stupid.

2. For giving an answer

I could cut the crank handle with my recriprocating saw and sand it down or rough it up so it fit in the drill and didn't slip. Your link to the Socket Genie didn't work, so I am not sure what that is or where I can get one. I am surprised Coleman or some other PU manufacturer doesn't make one of these.

[tknick]

One thing not yet mentioned about using a drill... You must be very careful when you get to the top (when lifting) or the bottom (when closing) so you do not overcrank and potentially break something.  

I use THIS one also from Harbor Freight.  I think I only paid $39.99 on sale.  I also just bought a spare handle and cut it off the socket part.  That way I can use it for my stablizers too.

When I get close to the top or bottom when using the drill, I switch back to the handle and go by hand just to be sure nothing happens.

travis

[wavery]

One thing not yet mentioned about using a drill... You must be very careful when you get to the top (when lifting) or the bottom (when closing) so you do not overcrank and potentially break something.  

I use THIS one also from Harbor Freight.  I think I only paid $39.99 on sale.  I also just bought a spare handle and cut it off the socket part.  That way I can use it for my stablizers too.

When I get close to the top or bottom when using the drill, I switch back to the handle and go by hand just to be sure nothing happens.

travis

Good point. I marked one of the rear posts on our PU with a line for 10 more cranks, 5, 2, 1 and dead top. We usually start being cautious at 10 very slow at 5 and hand crank the last 2.

I bought that #47991 drill from HF. It wouldn't lift my top and I thought that it might be defective. I exchanged it and had the same result. I got the other one and it works well.

We have a 12' box and a Carrier heat pump/AC. Maybe my roof is just hard to lift. :sombraro:

[wavery]

I could cut the crank handle with my recriprocating saw and sand it down or rough it up so it fit in the drill and didn't slip. Your link to the Socket Genie didn't work, so I am not sure what that is or where I can get one. I am surprised Coleman or some other PU manufacturer doesn't make one of these.

You might want to consider purchasing another handle instead of cutting the one that you have. I can assure you, you will need it on occasion .

Sanding the shaft may not cut it. It would be best to grind three sides flat about 1/4" wide. That way the jaws of the chuck grip on the reduced diameter of the shaft and the shaft can't turn in the chuck. You may not even have to use the chuck key. Ruffing it up won't help and you may find yourself becoming frustrated with having to continually re-tighten the chuck with all your strength. I'm sure that one of your friends or neighbors has a grinder. If not, mail the thing to me, I will grind it and mail it back to you. :sombraro: