Newbie /w a question ..

[robpoe]

I bought a really clean (1994 IIRC) Jayco PU.  

I lent the camper to my best friend, and after an unfortunate incident (the TV blew a rear tire, spun around, the camper went off the highway, then came back on to the pavement, which was about 6" higher than the dirt on the side of the road.  The resulting thud bent the wheel, broke the hub and bent the axle).  After a prolonged storage 131 miles away, and the first replacement axle was ordered incorrectly by the trailer dealer (not a Jayco dealer .. but rather another trailer supply house) and I got an indentical axle for about $225 - installed it with said friend (he's still my best friend, yes) and we're back in business (though their vacation was ruined).

The axle is rated for 2500 lbs.  The weight plate on the Jayco says 2499lbs.  The tires are the little ones, and they're rated for 1120 lbs each.  

So obviously, the camper with the extras outweigh the axle capacity (both, the old and the new one!) and tires.  

Doesn't this seem like a little bit of oversight on the part of Jayco?  The camper is great, tows great (before and after), but isn't this pushing things?  Is there anything to do to "beef it up" ??

Or am I just not thinking clearly enough and (obviously) probably forgetting tongue load - but still seems like it's pushing it ..

Also, can you upgrade a camper with surge brakes (or maybe electrics to ASSIST)?  Almost had a bad situation where the TV made an emergency stop, and could have had a bumper to bumper with the car in front -- if the car had not gotten out of the way..

[ScoobyDoo]

Let's see; Less than 300 miles ov towing, 1 wreck, 1 close call. Sounds like a good time to do some research.
   If your tires are rated for 1140lbs the 2500lb axle rating means nothing... your axle load is max 2280. If you are over this you need to ajust the load and driver.
 Wreck "caused" by a blowen tire on TV.Tire bad, overloaded, underinflated, or driving fast?
 Don't know what the TV is, can't guess about capacity to tow a trailer butas a rule if the truck can't haul the weight of the trailer in the truck than it needs brakes on the trailer. (my ram needs brakes for trailers GW 2000

[AustinBoston]

The axle is rated for 2500 lbs.  The weight plate on the Jayco says 2499lbs.  The tires are the little ones, and they're rated for 1120 lbs each.

With a 2500 lb trailer, your tongue weight should be at least 250 lbs., but not more than 375 lbs.  So if you take 2240 (the real axle weight limit because of the tires) and add the tongue weight (at least 250 lbs.), you get a trailer weight of 2490 lbs.  If 10 lbs makes a difference, there is a problem.

Note to those who use a WDH: The above does not apply to WDH's, because part of the tongue weight is "distributed" back to the trailer's axle and the Tow Vehicle's front axle.

Almost had a bad situation where the TV made an emergency stop, and could have had a bumper to bumper with the car in front -- if the car had not gotten out of the way..

Brakes or no brakes, you need more following distance and less speed when towing even a modest 2500 lb. trailer.  Brakes (either surge or electric, but I prefer electric) are a good idea.  With smaller tow vehicles, they are a necessity.  In some states, they are required at that weight.

Austin

[robpoe]

Let's see; Less than 300 miles ov towing

 Wreck "caused" by a blowen tire on TV.Tire bad, overloaded, underinflated, or driving fast?

Oh, no, I've towed it a lot more than 300 miles.  Probably, 3000 - 4000 miles.

The TV that blew a tire had a substandard tire on it.  My guess was it might have been a little underinflated, it had a LOT of miles on it, and just blew on the hwy.

My buddy's TV is a Dodge Durrango.  I have a 4Runner I tow it with.  Besides the 4Runner's lack of power (which the Durrango more than makes up for with it's V8 Hemi) both vehicles tow it really nice!

But you have a good point about the weights...

[flyfisherman]

The axle is rated for 2500 lbs.  The weight plate on the Jayco says 2499lbs.  The tires are the little ones, and they're rated for 1120 lbs each.  

So obviously, the camper with the extras outweigh the axle capacity (both, the old and the new one!) and tires.  

You did'nt mention the tire size, so I'm going to make a guess that they are 6.90 X 9 ~ that's the only only size Carlisle Tire shows for the weight capacity you posted. Let me ask, too, how many lug nuts (or bolts) hold the wheel on ... four or five?

My Starcraft has the 5.80 X 12" rated for 1045 lbs making for a total tire weight capacity of 2090 lbs, although it has a higher rating factoring in the tounge weight. However, I consider the tire capacity weight my redline as for figuring GVWR.

I have come to believe (big time) in a safety margin when it come to the camper GVWR and also for the towing capacity for the TV. Tooling down the pike at highway speeds and everything riding on a 2" ball is enough for serious concerns!



Fly

[robpoe]

four lugnuts each

[flyfisherman]

I bought a really clean (1994 IIRC) Jayco PU.  

The axle is rated for 2500 lbs.  The weight plate on the Jayco says 2499lbs.  The tires are the little ones, and they're rated for 1120 lbs each.  

So obviously, the camper with the extras outweigh the axle capacity (both, the old and the new one!) and tires.  

Doesn't this seem like a little bit of oversight on the part of Jayco?  The camper is great, tows great (before and after), but isn't this pushing things?  Is there anything to do to "beef it up" ??

Or am I just not thinking clearly enough and (obviously) probably forgetting tongue load - but still seems like it's pushing it ..

Also, can you upgrade a camper with surge brakes (or maybe electrics to ASSIST)?  Almost had a bad situation where the TV made an emergency stop, and could have had a bumper to bumper with the car in front -- if the car had not gotten out of the way..

Your camper, as presently set-up with the present tires (assuminging they are 6.90 X 9), were about par for the weight axle and labeled GVWR, factoring in Jayco's consideration for the TV handling the trailer tounge weight. However, you could bump up the tire size which would increase the tire load carrying capacity to 1330 lbs. providing the wheelwell could handle another 1 1/2 inch  width along with maybe another 1/2 inch height, by going with a 20.5 X 8. - 10" tire (LRD). But I'd have to ask you another question before you went to this additional expense ... have you ever weighed the camper while it's loaded with all the cargo you normally carry? ~ The reason I ask is that maybe your PU is not as heavy as you think (then on the other hand, it could very well be!)

In the past I've had trailers with both electrial and surge brakes, and there are pros & cons to each. The surge brakes are popular with boat trailers that are being submerged in water and do better than the electrial in this case. Also, the surge do not require a controller in the tow vehicle so they will work with any TV, as they work on inertia proportional to the brake application of the TV. However, they do require adjustment and maintnance. The advantage of the electrial is you can apply trailer brake independent of the TV brakes if need be, an option surge brakes don't have. But electrics require adjustment and maintenance, too.


Fly

[Nemesis56]

Also Surge Brakes will sometimes activate when backing up on steep inclines or rough terrain and will lock the wheels up unless you use the lock out pin on the trailer tounge.  I had it happen a couple times to me.  The first time I couldn't figure out what was wrong until I had DW try and backup and I actually saw the trailer tounge apply the brakes.  After that if i'm not sure , I'll just put the pin in anyway.