Electrical Cable extension

[dvierling2000]

We have a Fleetwood 2001 Sedona and purchased a bike rack that attaches to the TV.  Problem is that the cable that connects the PUT to the TV is now too short to connect.  My husband wants to do the extension himself...but I'm a little wary.

So My question is...Has anyone else ever had to extend this cable and if so, how hard is it to do?  Did it still work properly?  If you have done it, and it did work, could you give me details on how you did it? (Guess there are more than one question )

[wavery]

WELCOME TO PUT!!!!

Boy....that's a tough one to answer. Everyone has different abilities in this area. :confused:

First, I find it hard to believe that your cable is that short ( I mean..... I believe you...it's just hard :p ). I would check to see if the trailer harness is doubled over somewhere. Maybe the cable is longer than you think. I have a 2002 Coleman and my cable is about 3' longer than it needs to be. It is doubled back on itself and attached to the trailer tongue with a clamp.

If that doesn't work, see if the connector on the TV can be relocated closer to the center of the hitch, closer to the trailer ball.

If all else fails, go to an electrical supply store and buy 3' of each of the correct colored wires, in the correct gages for the job. Try to get heat shrink butt connectors like these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/HEAT-SHRINK-BUTT-CONNECTORS-QUALITY_W0QQitemZ230146995244QQihZ013QQcategoryZ73141QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Some marine stores carry a butt connector with heat-shrink AND low temp solder inside. They are really cool because you don't have to crimp them and they actually solder the connection. That's the ultimate but not really necessary :p . I would buy at least 5 of the blue ones and 5 of the yellow ones (maybe a couple more for spares).

Disconnect the trailer plug from the wire harness by removing 1 or 2 tiny screws in the side of the connector (I'm assuming that you have a 6 or 7 pin connector. If you have a 4 or 5 pin connector the directions will be different)That will allow you to push the inner part of the connector out the front, with the wires attached. You will see an individual screw for each wire. Loosen that screw and remove the wire. Be sure to leave the outer part of the connector slid down over the wires though-out this process. Now add the length of the appropriate size and color wire to each wire, then reconnect the trailer plug to the new wire. If you have a 4 or 5 pin connector, you will need twice as many butt connectors and just splice the new wires in the middle of the old ones.

I would first cut off about 3" of the old wire (all of them) and remove about 1/4" of insulation, exposing fresh, un-corroded wire and install one side of the heat shrink butt connector. Next put the correct color wire in the other side of the connector. Crimp both sides, then heat the heat shrink connector with a heat gun or lighter until it shrinks snuggly around the wire (not too much heat because it will crack). This should keep out any moisture.

Last, you can buy plastic wiring conduit from most home improvement centers or auto parts stores. Cover your wire extension with conduit and wrap that with electrical tape. That way, if there are problems later, it is much easier to get to the wires to inspect them.

Here is a wiring diagram that should help with the colors, depending on what connector that you have:
http://www.accessconnect.com/trailer_wiring_diagram.htm

[ldgregory]

So My question is...Has anyone else ever had to extend this cable and if so, how hard is it to do?  Did it still work properly?  If you have done it, and it did work, could you give me details on how you did it? (Guess there are more than one question )

Another option would be to buy a 7-pin extension cable. I've seen them around, and just a totally cursory and quick Google gave me this:

http://www.caravanadditions.co.uk/acatalog/Tow_Ability.html

I searched for "7 pin tow extension".

[wavery]

Another option would be to buy a 7-pin extension cable. I've seen them around, and just a totally cursory and quick Google gave me this:

http://www.caravanadditions.co.uk/acatalog/Tow_Ability.html

I searched for "7 pin tow extension".

The problem with that is inevitable. Some people loose the extension while camping and are miles away from any help (someone posted that just the other day) . IMHO, it's best (and cheaper) to do it the right way the first time.

I still can't believe that harness is too short :confused:

[ldgregory]

The problem with that is inevitable. Some people loose the extension while camping and are miles away from any help (someone posted that just the other day) . IMHO, it's best (and cheaper) to do it the right way the first time.

I still can't believe that harness is too short :confused:

I'm surprised that it ended up that short too. I've got a six inch maintenance loop like you but mine is hidden inside the covered triangle of the popup behind the hitch.

So you can dismantle your 7 pin? Wish mine was like that. I've got a sealed 7-pin.

http://trucks.pcwize.com/temp/connector001.jpg
http://trucks.pcwize.com/temp/connector002.jpg

I suppose they could accidentally lose it, but I'd just disconnect from the TV and leave the other connection alone so it all stays hooked together on the front of the popup.

[wavery]

I'm surprised that it ended up that short too. I've got a six inch maintenance loop like you but mine is hidden inside the covered triangle of the popup behind the hitch.

So you can dismantle your 7 pin? Wish mine was like that. I've got a sealed 7-pin.

http://trucks.pcwize.com/temp/connector001.jpg
http://trucks.pcwize.com/temp/connector002.jpg

I suppose they could accidentally lose it, but I'd just disconnect from the TV and leave the other connection alone so it all stays hooked together on the front of the popup.

In that case, I guess the only alternative would be to cut the harness, somewhere between the trailer and the connector and splice in a section (if that's what they want to do). However, if mine was sealed, like yours, I would get a plug in extension too. I'd sure as heck figure out a way to secure that bugger so it couldn't walk away though. I would also coat the connectors with dielectric grease because those connectors may corrode like crazy and if it is plugged together for a few years, it may just fuse together with corrosion and give them a lot of trouble.

[ldgregory]

In that case, I guess the only alternative would be to cut the harness, somewhere between the trailer and the connector and splice in a section (if that's what they want to do). However, if mine was sealed, like yours, I would get a plug in extension too. I'd sure as heck figure out a way to secure that bugger so it couldn't walk away though. I would also coat the connectors with dielectric grease because those connectors may corrode like crazy and if it is plugged together for a few years, it may just fuse together with corrosion and give them a lot of trouble.

I went and looked at the other end where it breaks out at the popup and that's also got a sealed connector, although of a much different type (flat). Well, hopefully they have one that isn't sealed.

[dvierling2000]

I really appreciate the input.  Not sure what I'll use to fix it, but I do know that I'll be looking to see if there is more cable somewhere first.

My PU's cable seemed to be long enough before the bike rack.  Guess I should have explained that the rack fits into hitch and has an extension bar with ball on it that the PU goes onto.  There is now about 2' difference between the 7 pin female part on TV (located just left of hitch) and the cable from the PU.  It normally fits with a little bit left over.
So what I need to tell the hubby, before he goes slicing into everything, is to see if there is extra cable coiled and stored somewhere on the PU?

Also, we did go looking for an extension first since I don't like him messing with the electrical stuff, but were unable to find anything at the local RV place that didn't require some splicing.  Didn't look on the net yet, but now I'll try that.

Thanks!!

[wavery]

I really appreciate the input.  Not sure what I'll use to fix it, but I do know that I'll be looking to see if there is more cable somewhere first.

My PU's cable seemed to be long enough before the bike rack.  Guess I should have explained that the rack fits into hitch and has an extension bar with ball on it that the PU goes onto.  There is now about 2' difference between the 7 pin female part on TV (located just left of hitch) and the cable from the PU.  It normally fits with a little bit left over.
So what I need to tell the hubby, before he goes slicing into everything, is to see if there is extra cable coiled and stored somewhere on the PU?

Also, we did go looking for an extension first since I don't like him messing with the electrical stuff, but were unable to find anything at the local RV place that didn't require some splicing.  Didn't look on the net yet, but now I'll try that.

Thanks!!

WOW!!!! I've seen some "Receiver Hitch" type bike racks. They are usually about 6-9" long. 2' is a lot.

Your 2001 Coleman Sedona has a fair amount of tongue weight (I believe). My Tacoma has over 300#. Extending that weight back 2' will add a lot of leverage weight on your TV, not to mention the weight of the bikes. Will your TV handle that? :confused:

[dvierling2000]

Okay..I've never been good with measurements..so maybe 2' is not accurate...it just seems like it is that long.

As far as the weights and measures goes..I leave that to hubby.  All I know how to do is:
1. Drive the TV and PU to our destination and home
2. Make sure it gets set up and taken down properly
3. Make sure he has clean dry socks to wear during the trip
4. Make sure EVERYTHING ELSE is taken care of (ie..packed all we could ever need, food, beer, toys, etc..)

So when I post, I might not be the best with the technical stuff.  That's why I post my question and then let him read the replies.

[wavery]

Okay..I've never been good with measurements..so maybe 2' is not accurate...it just seems like it is that long.

As far as the weights and measures goes..I leave that to hubby.  All I know how to do is:
1. Drive the TV and PU to our destination and home
2. Make sure it gets set up and taken down properly
3. Make sure he has clean dry socks to wear during the trip
4. Make sure EVERYTHING ELSE is taken care of (ie..packed all we could ever need, food, beer, toys, etc..)

So when I post, I might not be the best with the technical stuff.  That's why I post my question and then let him read the replies.

I just noticed that you have a 2007 Silverado.........tongue weight probably isn't an issue. However, you may see a difference while towing.

[AustinBoston]

They are usually about 6-9" long. 2' is a lot.

I have to admit, I missed that.  I read 2' as 2"...and could not figure out how two inches could possibly make that much difference in the electrical connector.

In any case, dvierling2000 should consider using cable ties or something like that to attach the extension to the bike rack.  This would prevent it from getting lost, and would make the extension handy the only time it is needed - when the bike rack is in use.  Just make sure it doesn't rub on anything that moves - coupler, chains, etc. - or it will fail.

Austin

[wavery]

I have to admit, I missed that.  I read 2' as 2"...and could not figure out how two inches could possibly make that much difference in the electrical connector.

In any case, dvierling2000 should consider using cable ties or something like that to attach the extension to the bike rack.  This would prevent it from getting lost, and would make the extension handy the only time it is needed - when the bike rack is in use.  Just make sure it doesn't rub on anything that moves - coupler, chains, etc. - or it will fail.

Austin

That's a good idea.

I was mainly concerned with either losing the extension or leaving it permanently attached to the trailer harness and suffering from corrosion. Attaching it the the bike rack would insure that it is unplugged and stored with the rack after every use, solving both issues.