Coleman roof light problem

trachexs · Jul 25, 2007, 09:26 PM

I have Coleman 2001 Mesa that suddenly developed a problem. The roof lights do not work on 110V AC but they work on 12V DC. I've checked all the outlets and they work fine and the fridge works, but no lights. I found a connector by the rear left lift post and I checked it for 110V AC, but no luck. (Maybe it's only a 12V DC connector??) I'm pretty sure the convertor works OK because the lights work on 12V. I'm also not sure how it could be the galley switch because once again, the lights work on 12V. I'm no wiring genius but I do know just enough to be dangerous. It's got me stumped and we're planning a long camping weekend. ARRGH!!! There doesn't seem to be a good wiring diagram on the 110V circuit, so any help would be appreciated.

AustinBoston · Jul 25, 2007, 09:38 PM

Quote from: trachexsI have Coleman 2001 Mesa that suddenly developed a problem. The roof lights do not work on 110V AC but they work on 12V DC. I've checked all the outlets and they work fine and the fridge works, but no lights. I found a connector by the rear left lift post and I checked it for 110V AC, but no luck. (Maybe it's only a 12V DC connector??) I'm pretty sure the convertor works OK because the lights work on 12V. I'm also not sure how it could be the galley switch because once again, the lights work on 12V. I'm no wiring genius but I do know just enough to be dangerous. It's got me stumped and we're planning a long camping weekend. ARRGH!!! There doesn't seem to be a good wiring diagram on the 110V circuit, so any help would be appreciated.

Those lights only work on 12 volts, even when plugged in to 120 volts. What happens is when plugged in, the 12 volts comes from the converter, and when not plugged in it comes from the battery.

The converter has an electronic switch that instantly switches between battery and converter when the 120V is plugged in or unplugged. My guess (and it's only a guess) is that the gate in the witch is fried. If I'm right, you will need a new converter.

But before going there, make sure about the 12V/120V power. Turn on the lights, plug in the camper, and make sure the lights go out. Make sure they come back on when unplugged.

If you still have a problem, then post about it. By then someone who's thought of the things I'm forgetting will have posted.

Austin

trachexs · Jul 25, 2007, 10:03 PM

Quote from: AustinBostonThose lights only work on 12 volts, even when plugged in to 120 volts. What happens is when plugged in, the 12 volts comes from the converter, and when not plugged in it comes from the battery.

The converter has an electronic switch that instantly switches between battery and converter when the 120V is plugged in or unplugged. My guess (and it's only a guess) is that the gate in the witch is fried. If I'm right, you will need a new converter.

But before going there, make sure about the 12V/120V power. Turn on the lights, plug in the camper, and make sure the lights go out. Make sure they come back on when unplugged.

If you still have a problem, then post about it. By then someone who's thought of the things I'm forgetting will have posted.

Austin

Thanks for the reply. I didn't know the lights are 12v only. When you say plug in the camper etc. are you talking about the battery or the 110V cord? The lights don't come on at all when the 110V cord is plugged in but come on and go off when I plug in and unplug the battery connection on the tongue.

AustinBoston · Jul 26, 2007, 07:20 AM

Quote from: trachexsThanks for the reply. I didn't know the lights are 12v only. When you say plug in the camper etc. are you talking about the battery or the 110V cord? The lights don't come on at all when the 110V cord is plugged in but come on and go off when I plug in and unplug the battery connection on the tongue.

I'm thinking of the 120V. When you unplug the battery, could you also be unplugging the power converter? That would kill the lights! It doesn't sound like a typical Coleman setup, but people will do just about anything to their pop-ups.

Austin

Chief USAF · Jul 26, 2007, 02:50 PM

What setting is the converter switch on? It should have Converter/off/battery, it's on the front of the converter you will have to open the cover to see it.

AustinBoston · Jul 26, 2007, 02:54 PM

Quote from: Chief USAFWhat setting is the converter switch on? It should have Converter/off/battery, it's on the front of the converter you will have to open the cover to see it.

A 2001 Coleman Mesa should have an automatic switchover (no manual switch). But if an owner changed the converter along the way, anything goes...and this is a distinct possibility.

Austin

wavery · Jul 26, 2007, 04:56 PM

Do you have an electric water pump? If you do, does it work while the converter is plugged in?

trachexs · Jul 26, 2007, 11:17 PM

Quote from: waveryDo you have an electric water pump? If you do, does it work while the converter is plugged in?

In doing some more checking and in talking with my dealer, I'm now pretty sure it's the power convertor. It had been working just fine then suddenly 1 second later boom it's on the fritz. The power convertor has an automatic switchover. The only thing manual on it is the 110V breakers. We do not have an electric pump. My dealer's tech said he's pretty sure it's the convertor and recommended we take along a battery charger to plug into an outlet and keep the battery charged so we can use the lights that way for the weekend. And at $320.00 for a new convertor it may stay that way for awhile! GRRR! Does anybody know where you can get a reliable 110VAC to 12VDC 20A (or larger
) convertor with an automatic switchover for less money? Thanks for all the input on this subject so far!

wavery · Jul 26, 2007, 11:29 PM

Quote from: trachexsIn doing some more checking and in talking with my dealer, I'm now pretty sure it's the power convertor. It had been working just fine then suddenly 1 second later boom it's on the fritz. The power convertor has an automatic switchover. The only thing manual on it is the 110V breakers. We do not have an electric pump. My dealer's tech said he's pretty sure it's the convertor and recommended we take along a battery charger to plug into an outlet and keep the battery charged so we can use the lights that way for the weekend. And at $320.00 for a new convertor it may stay that way for awhile! GRRR! Does anybody know where you can get a reliable 110VAC to 12VDC 20A (or larger
) convertor with an automatic switchover for less money? Thanks for all the input on this subject so far!

If you don't have AC, you may only need a 20A converter.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Elixir-20-Amp-Switching-RV-Power-Converter-BRAND-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ50073QQihZ016QQitemZ260143820662QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Here's a 30A:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RV-CONVERTER-12-VOLT-30-Amp-AC-DC-DISTRIBUTION-PANEL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ50073QQihZ015QQitemZ250147711858QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

There are lots of them listed on eBay:
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&_trksid=m37&satitle=rv+converter&category0=

cojake · Jul 27, 2007, 01:02 AM

Also, if you are not into Ebay, try //www.puxtradingpost.com they have 25 amp converters for about 130.00 I have ordered from them in the past and have been very satisfied with their service. Jake

AustinBoston · Jul 27, 2007, 05:37 PM

Quote from: waveryIf you don't have AC, you may only need a 20A converter.

I'd just love to know how the presence of air conditioning has any bearing at all on the capacity of the power converter.

Austin

aw738 · Jul 29, 2007, 07:47 AM

QuoteQuote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally Posted by wavery
If you don't have AC, you may only need a 20A converter.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'd just love to know how the presence of air conditioning has any bearing at all on the capacity of the power converter.

The 30 amp would be on the 120 volt output side of the converter only. You should need a 20 amp breaker for the A/C and a lower amp breaker for the remaining 120 volt outlets?

AustinBoston · Jul 30, 2007, 08:02 AM

Quote from: aw738The 30 amp would be on the 120 volt output side of the converter only. You should need a 20 amp breaker for the A/C and a lower amp breaker for the remaining 120 volt outlets?

Which has nothing to do with whether the converter is a "20 amp" "25 amp" or "30 amp" converter. Those ratings only refer to the 12V output of the converter, which has nothing to do with the 120V capacity. On the 120V side, the converter functions strictly as a breaker box without a main breaker, and nothing more.

My converter is a 25 amp converter, and could be used with 50 amp, 120V service if such a thing were available. It has two 15 amp breakers and two 20 amp breakers installed. Notice that even though the breakers add up to 70 amps, the converter is not rated to hande that much 120V current.

Notes for the electrically challenged: The power cord could not handle 50 amps. The breaker on the campsite post serves as a main breaker.

The capacity of the converter has absolutely nothing to do with air conditioning or the 120V demand.

Austin

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Coleman roof light problem