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fridge only working on propane

Started by CamperGirl, Sep 15, 2007, 10:40 AM

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CamperGirl

Okay, I'm stumped!  The fridge works great on propane but will not operate on AC or DC.  We tested the outlet, it's fine.  Checked the breakers, they are fine.  Left it plugged in for days still not cooling.  Any ideas?  Thanks

LimeJeeeep

there is a little heater that is powered by either 12v or 120v they may be malfunctioning..is it a 3way refrigerator?

austinado16

I'm not sure which brand and model fridge you have, but there should be one switch for 120v operation  and another switch for 12v operation.

You need to turn just one of these switches on (the other switch remains off) to have it operate in the mode you want.

Operation in 12v is for while you are towing to the campground only.  The 12v heating element draws 9-10amps and will drain your camper's battery in 3-5hrs.  12v mode simlpy maintains the precooling you did on propane or 120v at home, 24hrs before leaving.

My suggestion would be that first you do a voltage test at the switches and make sure you have 120v coming out of that switch in the "on" position, and 12v coming out of that switch in it's "on" position.  

If you have voltage coming out of the switches, then you need to test the individual heating elements.  Do this with an ohm meter, touching each of the ohm meter leads to each of the heating element wires.  You should see a resistance reading, which would indicate the heating elements are good... and not "infinity" or "open loop" which would indicate a broken element.

Check back here with your results and we can take more steps from there.

chip

[snip]
If you have voltage coming out of the switches, then you need to test the individual heating elements. Do this with an ohm meter, touching each of the ohm meter leads to each of the heating element wires. You should see a resistance reading, which would indicate the heating elements are good... and not "infinity" or "open loop" which would indicate a broken element.

[end snip]

You may want to be sure that there is no power to the element before you attach the probes from the ohm meter.  :yikes:

austinado16

As with any diagnostic, mechanic or electrical repair, or anything else on a piece of equipment there is a litany of safety measures and methods to adhere too.  It has to be assumed (right or wrong) that person on the receiving end of advice in a forum like this, either has the skill to do the task, is willing to gain the skill, or is going to realize that a professional should be doing the work for them.

If we posted warnings and step-by-step how to's with every response, it would be nearly impossible to get out an answer.

Use caution when replying because prolonged exposure to a computer screen is harmful to your eyes and typing on a keyboard can cause wrist and hand injuries.

Jestercat

Quote from: CamperGirlOkay, I'm stumped!  The fridge works great on propane but will not operate on AC or DC.  We tested the outlet, it's fine.  Checked the breakers, they are fine.  Left it plugged in for days still not cooling.  Any ideas?  Thanks


Have you checked the GFI (ground fault interupter)?  If it has tripped, none of your 120v outlet/systems will be working.  The GFI is located on one of the 120v outlets - mine is near the converter/fuse/breaker panel.  It should have two buttons on it - test & reset.  Press the reset and you should be good to go.

The GFI might be affecting the 12v, as the 12v comes from the converter, which gets its power from the 120v circuit.

Do you have a 12v battery in the system, and is it charged?  Even if it is, 12v operation of the fridge is very slow, takes forever to cool a warm fridge.  It's more for maintaining cold.

Your actually lucky in a sense..... most have problems getting propane to work, not the other way around  :p

dupreet

Don't know if this will help or not - another forum had a similar discussion about a fridge that would not run on 120V AC.  A couple people posted that in addition to the 120V for main power, the fridge HAD to have 12V coming from either the battery or converter to power the fridge electronics.  

I don't know if this is true or not, but might help work you out of your jam.

Good Luck,

Todd

srds

Make sure trailer is level-check to see if switches are in the right positions-12v=off,lp=off,120v=on turn temp to cold.touch tin wrap around above where pilot light is.It should get hot very fast,if not you have a power problem.Might be the 120v switch itself.Good luck