Breaking bunk door

[dthurston]

So, it's been a year since I posted here last.... been too busy either working or camping to post more, but now that we're probably done for the year, time to ask a couple of questions.

I have noticed what appears to be a fatal problem with the back bunk.

Here's a page of a 3 pictures of it:
http://picasaweb.google.com/stargatesg1/BackBunkOfThe2000Cub

I'm afraid, but becoming resigned to this being a dealer replacement job, but I wanted to run it by the great folks here first. And ask if anyone had an idea before I call someone about what it is likely to run. I'm in central Indiana.

TIA, and happy camping (for those who are still going out)

Doug

[AustinBoston]

I have noticed what appears to be a fatal problem with the back bunk.

Here's a page of a 3 pictures of it:
http://picasaweb.google.com/stargatesg1/BackBunkOfThe2000Cub

Can you show us what it looks like:

1) In the open position
2) From the inside (open and closed)

Austin

[dthurston]

Can you show us what it looks like:

1) In the open position
2) From the inside (open and closed)

Austin

I'll see about doing that, might be another day or two still. Stupid work gets in the way of stuff like this,

Doug

[dee106]

haven't seen that problem before! we had the hinge come loose on the bunk end, and the company replaced it. have you contacted the manufacture? check for recalls?

[dthurston]

haven't seen that problem before! we had the hinge come loose on the bunk end, and the company replaced it. have you contacted the manufacture? check for recalls?

Haven't talked to the mfr yet. Based on our previous contact with them, um, I'm not optimistic of a pleasant (or cheap) experience. They're on the list of course.

It's also a 2000, so no warranty would apply.  I'll check for any recall, but I'm not holding my breath on that either.

Thanks!

Doug

[wavery]

I was having a heck of a time trying to figure out what I was looking at. I thought that you had PU with a slide-out bunks :eyecrazy: .

Is this camper like yours?


If it is, it seems like you have suffered some water damage. and the integrity of the bunk platform is shot.

Of course the dealer's remedy is going to be to replace that entire platform. However, here are a couple of alternatives that may work:

Ideally, that painted panel may separate from the wood platform itself, without damage. However, that's probably not the case. It may be laminated on to cheap composite wood.

If you can separate it without damage, you may want to consider laminating that panel onto a piece of 5/8" or 3/4" CDX plywood. If it were me, I'd use 5/8" marine plywood because of it's superior strength an lack of plywood "voids" that most plywood has. However marine plywood is pricey.

If you can't get the old material off, an option may be to reinforce the old material with new 5/8" plywood (if there is room). Although, in order to do this, the old material must still be in good shape over at least 75% of the door. If you can crumble the old material, that is what it will continue to do. If you can remove the bad portion from the lower part of the door with a scraper and glue down new material (of the same thickness) to replace what you took away, that would be helpful. If there is an ugly gap between your new section and the old section, fill it in with body filler, let it set (per instructions) and sand it smooth.

You will need to remove that entire assembly, no matter which way you go. I would separate the panel from the frame, if it's possible. Use the old panel as a pattern to cut your new panel.

Lay the new panel on the floor and paint on a thin layer of contact cement. Put a thin layer of contact cement on your old surface (whatever it is). Allow the directed amount of drying time (usually about 30 minutes) and carefully lay it on the new panel. This will be very tricky, you only get one shot at it because contact cement is instant bond and not movable.

The other option for adhesive would be epoxy resin (more expensive, takes longer to cure but safer to use). It is available at most marine stores. Follow directions very carefully for mixing the 2 parts. Proportions are critical with epoxy resin. You can apply it to both surfaces and have about 10 minutes to work it out flat when you put the pieces together.

Have another piece of plywood handy to lay on top of the assembled parts and about 20-30 concrete block (or similar weight) to weight the parts flat. Allow 24 hours before handling and about 4 days before assembling. You may want to put wax paper between the top plywood and painted surface of the door.

Put your new assembly back in the frame. Reinstall.

NOW!!!!

If there is a thickness restriction, you may be forced to try to get all of the old wood off and replace it with the exact thickness of new plywood (please don't use composite again). If the painted panel gets damaged.......OH WELL!!!!  Put a couple coats of epoxy resin on the outside of the (Marine plywood) and spray paint it white. It'll look fine but you'll lose your decals (big deal :p ). You can get new aluminum sheeting to glue onto CDX plywood but I wouldn't bother. Epoxy coated marine plywood will paint nicely, be impervious to water and know one but you will know. :sombraro:

BTW

I wouldn't get it that bunk again. Someone could fall right through that thing. :yikes:

[dthurston]

I was having a heck of a time trying to figure out what I was looking at. I thought that you had PU with a slide-out bunks :eyecrazy: .

Is this camper like yours?


If it is, it seems like you have suffered some water damage. and the integrity of the bunk platform is shot.


I wouldn't get it that bunk again. Someone could fall right through that thing. :yikes:

Yep - that looks like a 18-20' model, with dual wheels. Ours is th shorter, single axel, but yes. That's the generation.  Think I have other shots still up on my Google pages (and public) fwiw.

I'm definitely keeping the detailed idea you put out there - wow... I was only HOPING for that kind of idea.

As I might have said, I'll try to open it this wknd and look more thoroughly. Partly, I wanted to get a feel from others as to how feasible a self-repair job on this might be.

Also not looking forward to losing my garage to the process and having to tarp the hole in the thing.
Oh, and I just thought about the fun of moving hardware and all. Kind of daunting to one who doesn't do it normally.

Anyway, I think the outer skin is fiberglass and it appears intact, though bent around the bottom seal. Will know better when I look at it again.

Thanks man! I love this place.
Doug

[AustinBoston]

You can get new aluminum sheeting to glue onto CDX plywood but I wouldn't bother. Epoxy coated marine plywood will paint nicely, be impervious to water and know one but you will know. :sombraro:

I agree with the vast majority of Wayne's post, except possibly this.  If the bunk serves as a front panel, then a layer of aluminum serves to protect it against high speed impact from small pebbles, sand, etc. that would cause pitting or gouges in plywood.

Austin

[6Quigs]

Here's a post from over at RV.net where someone else had problems with the door of his Cub, and took it off to repair it.He said his dealer wanted $2,000 to repair it but he did it for $150 in parts

Cub Door repair

I know this is not the exact same problem you have but I hope this helps, as it does show some of the construction of the door.

Here's the link to more of his photos
2000 Cub