Compressed-air for clearing water lines--winterizing

[GWPeck]

I have a Coleman 2006 Timberlake.  Last year, I winterized the water system with the traditional glycol RV-anti-freeze.  It worked fine.

This time, however, I'd like to try the compressed-air approach.  I understand one connects the air-compressor to the city-water inlet with the appropriate fitting, and that 30-40 psi air is all that is necessary for the job.  I also understand that one should open all the faucet-valves to allow for escape of air/water as the process goes.

I'm wondering if anyone has any other helpful-hints that would make my task more successful?  Thanks in advance for the assist.

[He Ruide]

I have a Coleman 2006 Timberlake.  Last year, I winterized the water system with the traditional glycol RV-anti-freeze.  It worked fine.

This time, however, I'd like to try the compressed-air approach.  I understand one connects the air-compressor to the city-water inlet with the appropriate fitting, and that 30-40 psi air is all that is necessary for the job.  I also understand that one should open all the faucet-valves to allow for escape of air/water as the process goes.

I'm wondering if anyone has any other helpful-hints that would make my task more successful?  Thanks in advance for the assist.

I took some pictures and documented my winterizing process with some options and modifications.  

Note - you will need a high volume air compressor.  Also if you don't add antifreeze you run the risk that water could accumulate in low spots and cause problems.

Hope this helps.

[tlhdoc]

I don't trust just blowing out the lines.  I have blown mine out, but after I put antifreeze through the system.  I worry that some cold water will lay in a low area and freeze causing problems.  Many people do use just air and don't have a problem.    If you do use just air, I would leave the faucets open, so any water in them can evaporate.

[campdaddy]

I don't trust just blowing out the lines.  I have blown mine out, but after I put antifreeze through the system.  I worry that some cold water will lay in a low area and freeze causing problems.  Many people do use just air and don't have a problem.    If you do use just air, I would leave the faucets open, so any water in them can evaporate.

Yea, what tlhdoc said.......
I too put antifreeze in THEN blow out the lines because I'm not confident that blowing out the lines alone would be sufficient to eliminate all the water. It's probably redundant over kill but I'm a "better safe than sorry" kinda guy.
 :p

[haroldPE]

GWP:  what d you consider 'traditional' method?  if it's putting AF IN the FW tank, then you can save effort and $$ by adding a bypass take up, just putting AF in the areas needed... gold tee valve below.. AF is taken up into the pipes where needed, not in the tank.  Very easy process in Fall and
 Spring.

[He Ruide]

Harold, Thanks for sharing that picture.  I had considered going to the hardware store and buying the parts to install a similar "T" on my tank.  Now, in one of those "Why did I not think of that" moments, I realize that I can use the winterizing kit that I no longer use as my pump is under my slide out.

[PatB]

Something I read about but hadn't considered is making sure that you don't use an air hose on your compressor that was previously used with any air tools. Most air tools require oil, and that oil eventually finds its way inside the hose. I'm looking to buy a new, clean, hose to use.