Several Battery/Electrical questions

[dkradcliffe]

OK Here goes:

1 year old Santa Fe Pop-Up bought brand new.  

1.  I bought a battery charger and always get a fault code that indicates a problem with an internal cell of the battery.   Just recently bought new battery and just tried to charge it and got the same error code.  Am thinking the issue is with the charger?

2.  Sometimes when hooking up to TV, the turn signals and brake lights work and sometimes they dont!  Sometimes when hooking up safety chains I see sparks when touching the tow hitch.  Is this because the battery is grounded to the trailer frame and it connects to the hitch when hooked up?

3.  And the most frustrating of all....The plastic battery box that came with the trailer has to be the most difficult contraption I have ever faced in my life.  The cloth strap that secures it to the trailer frame is almost impossible to loosen and when you get that done opening the lid of box requires two flat tip screw drivers to pry open...Is there a better alternative?

Am guessing the two electrical issues are related?  any simple things to check/fix/replace?

Oh I guess I should include that when dealer installed the brake controller they had issues with the wiring and it took them almost 7 hours to install it.....I guess there could be an issue with that installation but that wouldnt affect the battery or brake lights?

Derek

[brainpause]

Here are my best answers, and I bet you/me are on the right track:

OK Here goes:

1 year old Santa Fe Pop-Up bought brand new.  

1.  I bought a battery charger and always get a fault code that indicates a problem with an internal cell of the battery.   Just recently bought new battery and just tried to charge it and got the same error code.  Am thinking the issue is with the charger?

What kind of charger? Is it just a light that is lit on the charger, that is labeled, "Fault"?

If you are hooking directly to your battery with the charger, and the battery has water in it (some new ones are shipped empty), and you still get the fault, my money is that the charger is bad.

2.  Sometimes when hooking up to TV, the turn signals and brake lights work and sometimes they dont!  Sometimes when hooking up safety chains I see sparks when touching the tow hitch.  Is this because the battery is grounded to the trailer frame and it connects to the hitch when hooked up?

The battery on your trailer is grounded to the trailer frame, but this is likely unrelated. What is probably causing this is a bad ground (or inadequate grounding) through the trailer plug into your tow vehicle. Often times, the plug has a ground on it, but much of the actual ground conduction happens through the hitch/ball connection. Have seen this several times, and currently happens with my utility trailer. If I go over a pretty good bump, the hitch/ball connection loosens, and I get some flicker of the running lights.

Check the ground wire in the trailer's wiring to the plug. If you can trace where it goes to for ground on the frame, you may be able to scuff it with wire brush/sandpaper, and reattach using a star washer and nut, then painting over that.

3.  And the most frustrating of all....The plastic battery box that came with the trailer has to be the most difficult contraption I have ever faced in my life.  The cloth strap that secures it to the trailer frame is almost impossible to loosen and when you get that done opening the lid of box requires two flat tip screw drivers to pry open...Is there a better alternative?

Agree that the box is pretty frustrating. I might try to find a super short ratchet strap, or just use bungees this year, since I have an abundance of them in the garage (I think rabbits and bungees have the same ancestors).

I do not have to use a screwdriver to get my top off, but I'm sure we use the same box. I am able to finagle it with firm finger pressure in opposite directions to pop it open. It's not easy, though.

Sounds like this could be a contest of sorts. Who can mod the battery box (cheaply), to end this frustration?

I might just grind off the barbs on the tabs (but keep the tabs for placement), and use some good firm bungees this year. I believe this would work, especially since I don't keep the bungees in the weather, and they wouldn't get weak.

Larry

[austinado16]

I would disconnect the battery from the camper wiring and try to charge it.  If you still get the "faul" warning, consider buying one of those little suction bulb style battery cell testers that float little balls in a chamber depending on the specific gravity in each sell.

Some of these new "smart" battery chargers can be a pain in the butt because if the battery is too low, they won't charge it and will simply indicate a fault and shut off.

I guess you'll have to prove to yourself that you have a good battery and what it's current state of charge is, before deciding the smart charger is bad.

Regarding the trailer's wiring and the sparks, yes, your camper's wiring is looking for a good ground, but I'm also wondering if something isn't "on" in the camper as you're hooking up.  

Sounds like there was a major problem with the brake controller install.  Are the camper brakes being held on by the camper battery and a bad or activated brake switch out on the tongue?

I would start by redoing the ends of all your battery ground cables (usually white wires) and remount them to the trailer and battery using new eyelet connectors, star washers, and stainless fasteners.  Where you mount to the camper frame, clean the are the eyelet will be touching with the tip of a screwdriver blade, so you've got shiny bare metal.  On my Starcraft, there are seperate ground locations for the battery and the camper's wiring harness.  Inspect yours and see what you've got.

[PattieAM]

Your Carbon Monoxide alarm/sensor is a 24/7 draw and that might be why you are getting a 'fault' reading.

As to the battery box, think I've seen them fairly cheap at Wal-mart, but you might be able to find a marine retailer with decent deals.

[dkradcliffe]

Your Carbon Monoxide alarm/sensor is a 24/7 draw and that might be why you are getting a 'fault' reading.

As to the battery box, think I've seen them fairly cheap at Wal-mart, but you might be able to find a marine retailer with decent deals.

I have been removing the battery(s) to try and charge.  It is a smart (3 stage charger).  I have taken the old battery to OReilly's and they charged it  - then i tried to maintain it with my charger and got the fault.  Now again with the new battery so I am starting to really think it is the charger!  Will let you know what I find.  

I like the idea of cutting the tabs off of the battery box.  I am sure I could rig a strap out of some canoe straps or something similar....Maybe some old fastex buckles I have from my old Army days.

Will look into the grounds and see what I see.

[Toby]

As far as my battery box I gave up on the strap it came with and use strong rubber bungees, two and it works very well.  I had a problem with my wiring and it was a loose ground, the ground will cause alot of problems.  You may consider installing a quick disconnect on your hot side of the battery very cheap at wal-mart or harbor freight tools, when I charge I always take off my hot side from the battery so no juice is going to the trailor, just a precaution, good luck.


Rob.

[dkradcliffe]

I tested the battery and it is fully charged.  So the charger must be faulty.