making an indoor stove into a indoor/outdoor stove?

[ScouterMom]

My first pup had a 2 burner stove that was built into a box cabinet about 6-8" high with a drawer underneath.  it had the same track hardware mounted on the back edge of the cabinetry as a camper's table, and a prop underneath so that you could hang it on the outside of the camper to use it.  It also had little rubber feet underneath so you could set it on a countertop inside, and use the stove inside as well. same hookup for both - a 'quick change' gas line hookup.  If you used the stove outside, you simply ran the gas line under a velcro'd part of the canvas to the outside.


Since I'm rebuilding many of my camper's cabinets anyway - I'm wondering if I can do the same kind of thing with my current inside stove.  I prefer cooking outside anyway, and hanging the stove or using it on a table outside puts it at a much better height for my bad back (I'm tall, and camper cabinets are really, really too short for me!)

Do I need to do anything differently for the gas to work? other than getting the quick-change hookups instead of the permanent mount ones?  I've heard there are differences in inside and outside stoves, but really can't see what would neccesitate a separate gas line or pressure - unless the stoves themselves are different.  Since I am using the same stove, and I know it already works fine onmy gas hookup, is there any reason I can't or shouldn't do this?

thanks -

Laura

[Tim5055]

Actually, yes there are differences.  On campers that have two stoves (one inside and one outside) you will have a low pressure stove inside and a high pressure stove outside (usually).  The high pressure stove gives off more BTUs and thus is a little better for coking.

Is there a gas line on the outside of your camper?  If so what kind of connector does it have (quick connect or screw on).  Low pressure uses a quick connect and high pressure requires a screw on.

A little more information please...

[austinado16]

Our Starcraft has a low pressure stove that can be used inside or outside. We've used it in both locations and it works fine.  I can certainly see where a high pressure stove would be nice outside though.

[Recumbentman]

since you are re-building you cabinets. it would be easy to add a new counter-top and remove the stove from the new top. then build a new box that you install the stove into and have the box sit on top of your new counter-top. this will bring the height up more to your liking, install some grip handles on the side of the new box so you can easily move it from inside to your outside area. the only trick is getting your new gas line to the outside area of your PU.
sounds like a nice mod

[ScouterMom]

since you are re-building you cabinets. it would be easy to add a new counter-top and remove the stove from the new top. then build a new box that you install the stove into and have the box sit on top of your new counter-top. this will bring the height up more to your liking, install some grip handles on the side of the new box so you can easily move it from inside to your outside area. the only trick is getting your new gas line to the outside area of your PU.
sounds like a nice mod

Recumbentman, you hit the nail on the head - EXACTLY what I want to do!

My camper is a '73, so  no, I don't have an outside gas line like some of the newer campers.  In Starcraft campers of my vintage, they did offer two modifications that were really cool - but  were not included in my camper.  one style allowed the stove/sink to flip up on top of an interior cabinet, or the cabinet slid out and the stove and sink unit dropped behind it, and when pushed back in place, the stove and sink popped out the side of the camper like a big drawer.  another option , one I really like, but you don't see much anymore, is the 'Swinger' model.  Someone on the board here bought one used last year, I think. Starcraft put the stove on a pivot hinge - you could 'swing' the stove/sink into the camper and use it, or the whole cabinet swung thru an access door to the OUTSIDE of the camper the hookups for everything stayed put - they just pivoted thru the exterior wall.  

Mine is the plain jane version - a starmaster 6 - the only 'upgrade' that came with my model is the furnace. So I don't have any exterior anything.  except an outside electric outlet (which I don't think works - another item on my 'list') and a track to mount the table outside if I want to.

If the only difference between the low pressure /interior stove and the high pressure exterior is more BTU's, then I can deal with using the low pressure outside.  We use the stove mostly for things like bacon & eggs, or a coffeepot - we do more of our 'cooking' in a dutch oven with charcoal, anyway.  

However, I'm a little confused.  Tim said "Low pressure uses a quick connect and high pressure requires a screw on." when we removed the interior stove for installing the new floor, it was definately a screw on-attachment. So am I correct in thinking that low pressure stoves CAN use either a screw on OR a quick connect? (as long as they are the same at both connections) and high pressure MUST use a screw on?  I assume my stove IS low pressure, because it was designed for inside use and the dual tanks have a regulator on them.

Will I need to change the connector on the stove itself to use a quick connect hose in both locations?  

Or am I better off sticking to screw on for both inside and outside?

While the current stove line is on the road side of the camper (comes thru the floor at the front corner of the wheel well)  there is also a line that comes thru the floor on the door side for the furnace.  Can I "T' off this line?  Both lines, UNDER the camper are hard copper lines - once they come about 6" above the floor, the furnace one screws directly into the furnace, and the stove one has a 3'-4' rubber hose running from the floor to the stove itself.  I'm thinking I could 'T' off the hard line to the furnace, run the line along the camper floor and out the side of the camper right by the door?  Can you get some kind of shut-off valve if I am not using this line? (If I am using the stove, inside, on the original gas hookup?)

Thanks for the help.

Laura

[austinado16]

Check out all the cool fittings that are available at MB Sturgis online.  Then call them if you have question.  There are all sorts of cool quick couplers for use with Propane.

I believe if you want to run a high pressure stove outside, you'll need to run 2 regulators off your propane bottle.  You'd run them in series.  The first one would be a single stage, like you have on a propane BBQ.  That would be your high pressure feed.  From that, you would run your copper hard line over to where ever the outside stove will connect, and then from the end of that, you'd go with propane rated flex hose and a coupler to get you on and off the stove fast.  The flex hose would thread onto the copper pipe with compression fittings.  But at the stove end, it would be some sort of coupler.

Back to the regulators:  After the single stage regulator, you'd have a "T".  One leg of the "T" would be feeding your high pressure. The other leg would go into your existing 2 stage regulator and feed the existing low pressure stuff in your camper.

[Recumbentman]

The quick connectors are all the same, they do not determine whether an appliance is high or low pressure. That is determined by the appliance itself.
'code' only allows for low pressure inside a RV. here is the link to
MB STURGIS

Also I would think it would be easier to use a portable table for your outside stove, plus it will give you a working surface for your food prep.

Will I need to change the connector on the stove itself to use a quick connect hose in both locations?

that would be a good idea. this will allow you to move your stove from inside to outside very easily.

[Tim5055]

However, I'm a little confused.  Tim said "Low pressure uses a quick connect and high pressure requires a screw on." when we removed the interior stove for installing the new floor, it was definately a screw on-attachment. So am I correct in thinking that low pressure stoves CAN use either a screw on OR a quick connect? (as long as they are the same at both connections) and high pressure MUST use a screw on?  I assume my stove IS low pressure, because it was designed for inside use and the dual tanks have a regulator on them.Laura

Laura, the connections in line between the regulator and the appliance will almost always be screw connections because they can handle any pressure up to their rating (which is usually higher).  It is only the appliance connection to the LP gas system that is usually screw on vs. quick connect.

The quick connectors are all the same, they do not determine whether an appliance is high or low pressure. That is determined by the appliance itself.
'code' only allows for low pressure inside a RV. here is the link to
MB STURGIS

Also I would think it would be easier to use a portable table for your outside stove, plus it will give you a working surface for your food prep.


that would be a good idea. this will allow you to move your stove from inside to outside very easily.

I'd like to clarify my statement, and point out that for the uninformed it is dangerous to just say "that's a great idea, do it".

The type of connector does not determine if the appliance is LP or HP, but it is "indicative" of the pressure rating.  A high pressure appliance should never use a "quick connect", both because code prohibits it and the fact that many quick connects will not support the pressures involved.

Someone who is uninformed on LP gas may go to the link for MB Sturgis and then click on the quick connects and pick one to purchase, thinking that a quick connect is much easier to use then a screw on connector or that "The quick connectors are all the same".  I noted that there are seven quick connects listed; how many folks would know which would work?

Of the seven three may fail if used on either high pressure or tank pressure as they are rated as 5 PSI Max Pressure and 1/2 PSI max pressure.  Remember, there are three LP gas pressures available:

    *      Tank pressure...several hundred psi
    *      High pressure...approx 13 psi
    *      Low pressure....less than 1 psi, approx 11 inches of water column

Working with LP Gas is not the same as working with the plumbing in your pop up.  Failure to understand the items you are working with when dealing with LP Gas can kill you.  Please note that any installations and work on your LP Gas system should always be performed by someone knowledgeable and qualified to do such work.  Taking advice from someone over the in this instance can have tragic results.

OK, I'm off my soapbox now..........

[ScouterMom]

Ok - lets keep things simple....

Seems like Tim has some experience with LP gas? my only experience is with using LP appliances as they were installed  - and possible, re- installing them.  

My stove is a low pressure, 3 burner stove - the original that came with my 1973 camper. I  installed newer LP tanks and replaced the old rubber hoses and broken regulator with new hoses and a new dual regulator last summer.  I have never used the furnace, but there is no reason it should not be in working order, also - the appliances that came in the camper appeared to have been used very little.  The solid pipe connections and lines underneath the camper were checked with soapy water last year, and were all in good shape.

So let's forget about 'high pressure' equipment.  I am only interested in 'LOW Pressure' equipment which I already have. I don't need an additional regulator, or to bypass the regulator, then, either. Right?

I do not need quick change couplers - screw ons are fine with me.  Since I will probabably connect and disconnect the stove only once per campout - and it will stay in it's outside location most of the time, I don't really need to move it 'quickly' . And I probably will set it on my portable table, rather than 'hang' it on the camper, as I really don't want to drill more holes in the old girl, anyway!

So if I build a portable box around my stove and get a standard hose to connect it to a standard connection, can I "T' that connection off the furnace line? (just because it is the shortest distance inside the camper on the curbside)I'm also interested in how I can add in a line for a 3-way fridge someone gave me from another PUP - though that line would be a permanant hook up - probably in the street side of the camper.

I can see that the appliances have a switch to turn off the gas at the appliance, but how does the gas get shut off if there is no appliance on that line at the time?

Normally, when I use the stove inside, I turn on the gas at the tank when I use the stove.  I may leave the LP tank 'open' so the stove is ready to use,  but before I head home, I always light the stove, and close the LP tank handle to burn off any gas in the lines, before I pack up.

IF I add a line that is not always connected to an appliance, what keeps gas from escaping out the unused line?  (what keeps the gas from leaking out the line outside the camper if the stove is hooked up to the inside stove line, or the gas from leaking out the unused line inside the camper if the stove is hooked up outside? do I need some kind of shut-off valve for the stove lines if I do this?

Laura

[wavery]

We have an outside counter-top that mounts on the open door with one of those "C" channels. Our stove and that counter-top are interchangeable. We can put the stove on the door "C" channel and the counter top where the stove goes. I hope that makes sense.

It's a low pressure stove and the hose is attached with a quick coupler that can be used indoors and outdoors.

Here's a pic with the counter-top on the door. When we put the stove outside, that counter goes where the stove normally sits, inside:


Here's a pic with the stove on the inside but they are interchangeable. Notice the latch on the bottum of the stove base (counter-top):