Electrical Problem

[Heff]

I'm having trouble with my ceiling lights & fan, they will not come on. All other electrical is working fine. gfi outlets, water pump, thermostat. The lights and ceiling fan appear to be on the same output circuit  I checked fuse in converter and also in fan. My converter is the Elixir elx-25. Any help would be aprreciated.

[Tim5055]

I'm having trouble with my ceiling lights & fan, they will not come on. All other electrical is working fine. gfi outlets, water pump, thermostat. The lights and ceiling fan appear to be on the same output circuit  I checked fuse in converter and also in fan. My converter is the Elixir elx-25. Any help would be aprreciated.

Well, saying the water pump is working tells me your 12v output from the converter is fine.  If I was going to guess (really not fair, because this is a common problem) I would say the wire running up from the trailer box to the roof is cut or unplugged.  Look around the four lift posts.  You can usually see where the wire exits the box and travels up through the tenting (again usually) next to a lift pole to the roof.  Again, depending on manufacturer there is either a plug at the bottom of this wire, a plug at both ends or just a plug at the top.  Unplug and reconnect them.  This usually clears up the problem.

Oh, if you can add a signature (in the user control panel) with your make/model of camper folks can give more exact answers to your questions.

[fallsrider]

Brands of pups vary in their designs, but I'm currently having the same problem with mine. My Jayco has the wire run up the rear driver's side lift post. There is a switch up in behind the edge of the roof, just in front of the post, that presses open when the roof is lowered all the way, cutting off the lights. The wire connects to the roof switch with a standard spade connection. That connection over time has become corroded. I've sanded it once and put some dielectric grease on it. It worked for a while, but started acting up again on this past weekend's local trip. I had to jiggle the wire about 3 different times over the weekend to get the lights to work again.

[austinado16]

Brands of pups vary in their designs, but I'm currently having the same problem with mine. My Jayco has the wire run up the rear driver's side lift post. There is a switch up in behind the edge of the roof, just in front of the post, that presses open when the roof is lowered all the way, cutting off the lights. The wire connects to the roof switch with a standard spade connection. That connection over time has become corroded. I've sanded it once and put some dielectric grease on it. It worked for a while, but started acting up again on this past weekend's local trip. I had to jiggle the wire about 3 different times over the weekend to get the lights to work again.

Don't some of these also have a switch on the swing up galley, so if the galley isn't in the right position, or that switch is bad, the lights won't get power.

Personally, I'd bypass the switch.

[WV Hillbilly]

Had the same problem with my Starcraft.  It was the swing up galley...it wasn't making enough contact with the switch on the back of the galley.   Added a shim to the swing up part of the galley where it contacts the switch.  Works fine now.

Only problem if you by pass the switch......if your forget to turn off the lights you could have a hole burn in the canvas :yikes: when you close everything up.

[chasd60]

Only problem if you by pass the switch......if your forget to turn off the lights you could have a hole burn in the canvas :yikes: when you close everything up.

Agreed

[austinado16]

Well, mine's an '87 and in 22 years it's never had an issue with not having a safety switch for the ceiling lights.

[Wingdreamer]

I had the same problem near the end of last season. Everything below the tent line worked, everything that was 12 volt above the counter level wouldn't work. Thought for sure that it was the switch at the swing down cabinet. Turned out the be the crappy connectors that held the 12 volt wiring harnesses coming off of the power convertor were not tight enough to make a good connection. I could hear them crackle and hiss when I wiggled them.  Most of them are actually giant "scotch" connectors     :yikes: .

Steamed me off royally to think that in today's day and age that any factory would use these fire hazards!!! I have been in the automotive repair trade for over 30 years and would take a tech out back and "shoot him" if he ever used a scotch connector!!! When I open my trailer up this weekend, I will be soldering, shrinking and taping up all connectors in and around the convertor, then use nylon ties and conduit as needed to safely route everything.....

Do it once, do it right

Alan