Hot water heater Anode rod replacement?

[dkutz]

So reading through the paperwork for our 02 Coleman this weekend, I read that our Heater anode rod should be replaced every year.  I have read posts that say every three years.

I am pretty sure ours hasn't been replaced in 7 years, but not sure.  Should I replace it?  Or leave well enough alone?

[coach]

Replace it when it has been used up or slightly before!

[waygard33]

You should remove it and take a look. I had to buy a 1 1/16" socket to remove mine. I take it out every year to drain the hot water tank and I get a look at it then. If you have the socket (I had to buy one), it only takes a minute to take a look.

HE RUIDE (member) has a smugmug site where he shows how to do it.

Here's the link to his site. HE RUIDE SITE I don't think he'll mind me giving it out. (Thanks He RUIDE!)

Wayne in Oregon

[He Ruide]

Wayne,  

You are welcome and thanks for sharing my web site.  I need all the helps as I don't get a chance to see all the posts.

Dkutz,

Just in case you had to wade through all my galleries, here is a direct link to the anode removal pictures.

Ruide

[Azusateach]

Dieter, I think you'll be surprised at what's left if you think the anode hasn't been replaced.  I did mine after just over 2 years and there was NOTHING left of it.  

If you get the anode and bring it to Smith Woods, I've got everything else to help you replace it -- including this handy-dandy little wand you attach to your water hose to help flush the tank.  I had about 1/2" of sludge in the bottom of my tank, which was giving me trouble by clogging the water basket on my faucets and showerhead.  

It's really, really easy to replace and clean.  If anyone wants to do theirs while at Smith Woods, I'd be happy to let them borrow my socket, breaker bar, and flushing wand.  

Laura

[dkutz]

Dieter, I think you'll be surprised at what's left if you think the anode hasn't been replaced.  I did mine after just over 2 years and there was NOTHING left of it.  

If you get the anode and bring it to Smith Woods, I've got everything else to help you replace it -- including this handy-dandy little wand you attach to your water hose to help flush the tank.  I had about 1/2" of sludge in the bottom of my tank, which was giving me trouble by clogging the water basket on my faucets and showerhead.  

It's really, really easy to replace and clean.  If anyone wants to do theirs while at Smith Woods, I'd be happy to let them borrow my socket, breaker bar, and flushing wand.  

Laura

ha ha sounds like an adult craft project... I will see if I can check it out here.  Are the anode rods universal in size?  Just go the the RV parts place.

[coach]

atwood or suburban?

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-water-heaters/anode-rod.htm

[Dray]

I used the He Ruide site to help guide me too.  Thanks He Ruide!  It is real easy.  One thing that I wasn't ready for was the anode rod shooting out, because of the pressure I guess.  Was I supposed to open one of the water lines to realease pressure?

[He Ruide]

Dray,

You are welcome.

Yes you could open one of the hot water lines or the pressure release valve.  However, you still have all the water in the tank that is going to come pouring out once you loosen the anode.

Ruide

[hoppy]

I replace my anode rod, and flush the heater about every third season...... But I do drain my heater after every camping trip during the ride home. My PU came equipped with drain valves under the PU, so it is real easy to drain it.

 I suggest using plumber's tape on the anode's threads when installing the new anode. It will make it some-what easier to replace it in the future. Be careful not to cross-thread it when installing it also.

[Hackker]

You are welcome and thanks for sharing my web site.  I need all the helps as I don't get a chance to see all the posts.

I ran across your site a while back and loved the mod for extending the fresh water drain.  Just did that to my '07 Niagara a month ago and its worked great!

Makes it a lot easier to sanitize the tank and also lets me easily dump the water before I leave the campground.

[He Ruide]

Thanks Hackker.   Your note made me smile as I've been getting pretty good about using up all the water during a weekend trip.  I'm on pins and needles hoping I'll have enough to wash up the plates on Sunday morning.  Plus it means not having to make two runs to the dump station.  

Now having said this, I bet I'll be draining my fresh water tank on my next camping trip :banghead:

Ruide

[PatB]

I pull the anode every trip in order to drain the water. Don't like keeping the water in there to go bad, or don't need the extra weight. I have an '05 FW Victory and assume that's the only way to do it. I open and drain the two valves near the rear of the PUP but noticed the water heater has to be drained separate. Right?

[bud121156]

This is what mine looked like after 2 seasons.

[wavery]

Just a tip here.

You will probably find the anode very hard to loosen. This is not because some animal over-tightened the nut. It's because microscopic bits of corrosion builds up between the threads over time. This makes the threads "Lock" because those little pieces of corrosion are like tiny sharp rocks laying between the threads, The harder that you try to turn the nut, the tighter the pieces will lock and jamb between the threads.

ALL plumbers know about this problem and the solution is [COLOR="Red"]NOT[/COLOR] to get a bigger wrench, as you can damage the the tank. The solution is to tap around the edges of the nut with a small hammer or the back side of a Crescent wrench BEFORE you try to turn the nut. Tap around the nut in a counter-clockwise pattern. This will break down and loosen up the corrosion in the threads before they become locked and packed together so tightly that the nut becomes very difficult to turn. If you do this first, you may be surprised at how easily the nut turns.