Get more BTU'S out of Stove???

[AustinBoston]

Ther are other factors involved in your bakery example. Like my Suburban cook stove in the camper, it was designed to operate (max) at a certain level. As already posted, no doubt it can be bumped up in performance but that would be contrary to what it was designed for. But no way, under the sun, will it ever operate on the scale of the Coleman camp stove, with only 11" WC pressure. Impossible.

Now, my Coleman camp stove uses 10 psi ... you keep saying 15 (unless you know more than Coleman?) ~ it has a regulator on it to ensure the burners will receive that max amount ... and obviously that 10 psi can be regulated further by the burner valve. But the fact is that stove, as presently designed, can only deliver so much heat (BTU's). Maybe someone real knowledgeable could boost it a tad with bigger jets as it is presently set-up. And here's the point ... in order to achieve a higher BTU level, assuming one where to have the proper burner/orifice set-up, would be to increase the supply of fuel and with propane that would be a higher psi.

Please, please, tell me why my furnace, three burners of my inside stove, and my hot water heater can all run off the same regulator and not have their BTU output affected?  Does your stove put out 30,000 BTU's like the combined output of my three devices (all running off the same regulator)?

I'd bet an oven in a large bakery, running at 11" W.C., could put out 100,000 BTUs.  Could your stove do that?

You clearly have no idea how this stuff works.

Austin

[flyfisherman]

This is totally and utterly irrelvant to the point.  At 11" water column, you can deliver 50,000 BTUs.  It's not about efficiency.



And this has to do with PSI how?



Misuse of the term "regulator."  W/R/T propane, a regulator sets the pressure, not the rate of flow.  This stove did not regulate pressure, only the size of the opening through which propane could flow.



OK so far...



Analogy FAIL.  You are comparing a valve to a regulator.  Different animals entirely.

1) The hose will build to 45 PSI if the nozzle is all the way off, no matter how little the valve is turned on.  The propane line will not exceed 11" WC, even with everything off.

2) The hose will drop to near zero pressure when the nozzle is turned all the way on.  The propane line will remain at 11" WC unless there is a catastrophic failure (i.e. major leak).

3) If the hose has a "Y" in it with two devices connected, turning one of the devices on and off will affect the amount of water going to the other device, because the pressure will fall when the device is on, and rise when it is off.  This does not happen with a propane regulator.  The regulator will allow more gas to flow when there is more demand in order to maintain the 11" W.C.

A valve (faucet) linits flow rate.  A regulator (below a certain flow rate) does not.  You will hit the tanks OPD leak limit before hitting that limit with an 11" W.C. regulator.  You would hit the very same limit if the regulator were for 10 or 15 PSI (220 or 330" W.C.).



And indoors, 11" WC is optimum pressure.

Austin

What we are discussing here is a small volume regulated propane system for an RV and the appliance efficiency (i.e., cooking stoves) operating on 11' WC pressure.
We are not talking a large bakery with maybe a 3" incoming supply line and with volumes and volumes of fuel source, like maybe enough to perhaps heat a city. An entirely different animal.
I've laid out how the system works and have answered your baiting questions in about as simple terms as I know how.
But I'm not about to indulge in any of your well known, AustinBostin, pseudo intellectual, put down, question and answer nonsense.

Comprende?

[flyfisherman]

Please, please, tell me why my furnace, three burners of my inside stove, and my hot water heater can all run off the same regulator and not have their BTU output affected?  Does your stove put out 30,000 BTU's like the combined output of my three devices (all running off the same regulator)?

I'd bet an oven in a large bakery, running at 11" W.C., could put out 100,000 BTUs.  Could your stove do that?

You clearly have no idea how this stuff works.

Austin

Your three burner stove and water heater all work off the same regulator with the same line pressure and appliance performance because the regulator is doing exactly what it was designed to do.

Again, we're not talking about a bakery, the topic is popup campers.

I may very well have limited knowledge on how things work (especially bakeries), but I do understand how my popup camper propane system works; and that's got to be more than you know.

[JohnandLeann]

Find the orface that regulates the flow of fuel into your stove.  It will be inline probably after the connection where the supply hose connects to the cook top.  It will have a very small hole in it to reduce the fuel flow.

If you don't have some, get some small pin drill bits.  I got mine at harbor freight.  Find out which of the small drill bits from this kit fit the very small opening.
When you find which one goes through the orface without much resistance, go to the next size bigger pin drill bit.  Do this with your hand only and not with a drill or any thing else.
I would not recommend going more than 2 or 3 sizes bigger than "stock".
Try each "adjustment" after you have done this and see what if any improvement has occurred.

Remember to think safety here and have a fire extinguisher at the ready if needed.

[coach]

A mole of propane has the same BTU available no matter what pressure or state.

My Coleman stove regulator is set at 15 psig, written right on the lid/wind guard.
Coleman/Fleetwood/FTCA PU use a 16 psig regulator for the outside stove high pressure stove which at on time was a Coleman 2 burner stove and later changed to an Atwood.

Many a stove top have an internal regulator set at 10" wc.

Coleman? 15 PSI Regulator

So I'm filling my pool with a garden hose. Then I put my finger partly over the end of the hose cuz some one suggest higher pressure would fill faster. The water shoots out farther, the pressure in the hose goes up but the pool don't fill as fast as when the hose had lower pressure.

[coach]

Coleman warning sticker and close up - preset to 15 psi.






Same sticker on the PowerPack™ 1-Burner Propane Stove 7,500 BTU max.

[AustinBoston]

I may very well have limited knowledge on how things work (especially bakeries), but I do understand how my popup camper propane system works; and that's got to be more than you know.

The fact of the matter is, you claimed pop-up stove BTU rate is the result of low pressure.  When someone else pointed out that you were wrong, you tried to defend yourself with a an analogy that just doesn't compare.

Several people (not just me) have tried to point the truth out to you.  They all agree with me.  But for some reason you think I'm the one who doesn't know how it works?

Have a nice day.

Austin

[oreo57]

Remember, theres a BIG differance in what you 2 are talikng about. ones talking pressure and one volume, and the regulator is designed to keep a consistant volume regardless of the pressure to the stove,heater or whatever it may be or btu rating, thats why its called a regulator.

[coach]

Wow, we're getting some great discussion on this topic, thanks! So far, I've learned that the manufacturer deliberately keeps the output on these stoves low as they are used inside or outside,close to the camper. Ok, makes sense. As I never use the stove indoors, it wouldn't be big deal for me,  not mount it on the outside, but rather set it on a table close to the camper. (I presently place a glass cutting board between the stove and the camper to deflect excessive heat and it has worked well for the last 2 years.) I'd still like to tweak the orifice a little (replace or slightly oversize it) if you think it will increase BTU output.

Knowing the risks, I suggest you find numbered drill set.
The numbering seems backwards.

I'm guessing your control valves have hole through them (might find a disc orifice). Find the drill that fits the hole ( a 65 or so). See PROPANE ORIFICE CAPACITY 11 INCH WATER COLUMN, scroll to see. Drill away, a tad larger and pray! There is a limit of how much bigger you can go and still have a blue flame. One burner may use a different size than the other as they may not be rated the same. I disavoy any knowledge of this!

When the wind blows from the PU's side it blows much of the energy toward the PU.

Is it worth the risk?



BASIC CONCEPTS FOR LP GAS REGULATORS

[coach]

The propane supply tubing in an RV is designed to carry the entire load of all appliances on high with only a 0.5" drop in pressure.

The green ACME is rated to 200,000 BTU capacity.
Model 299 Marshal integral two-stage regulator has an 160,000 BTU/hr capacity. Both in excess of a PUs requirement.

[hoppy]

As I never use the stove indoors, it wouldn't be big deal for me,  not mount it on the outside, but rather set it on a table close to the camper...... I'd still like to tweak the orifice a little (replace or slightly oversize it) if you think it will increase BTU output.

 The only problem I see with this senerio is if or when you lend the PU to a friend or family, or you decide to sell the PU to some unsuspecting soul, the unsafe condition will not be known by these individuals, since that stove will be stored inside the PU during transit or sale. This is all dependent on your memory to inform all parties of this modification. You may also need to de-mod this in the event of a possible sale in the future.

 IMHO, Me thinks just purchasing an outside stove is the way to go for efficiency and safety in the long run. (Esp. if you have CRS syndrome like me)