2003 Coleman Niagra ABS Roof Leak

[DaveMiller]

I just opened up my 2003 Coleman Niagra only to find a couple of gallons of water sitting on the canvas.  Very disheartening considering I thought that with the one piece ABS roof with a lifetime guarantee, I'd be free of leak problems.   Just shows how naive I can be at times!  

It appears the water is coming in from the roof rack track.  Fortunately, the only internal damage I have found so far is discoloring of the canvas and the ceiling.   It appears the canvas protected the beds and everything else below.  

I have two questions:  

1. What is the best way to dry out the area between the ceiling and the roof?  I pulled the light fixtures hoping to get some airflow, but there is Styrofoam insulation in the openings.  The ceiling material (vinyl coated hardboard?) is soft in several places and definitely still wet.  I have an industrial fan circulating air in the trailer, but not sure if that will do any good for the really wet areas above the ceiling.

2. Can the ceiling material, whatever it is be replaced without taking the entire roof apart?  I don't want to start taking out screws to get at the roof without really knowing what I'm in for.

I've spoken with a couple of dealers who warn me having this handled under the Coleman warranty will be costly and time consuming.  According to one Dealer, the leadtime for a new roof is about a year plus a $1500 freight charge plus labor.  If fixing the leak is a matter of resealing the rack track, I can handle that, but I'd like to get the thing dried out and haven't had much luck on finding out how I can do that.  

Your suggestions and expertise are appreciated.

Best Regards,

Dave Miller
Newark, CA

[waterdoctor]

It appears the water is coming in from the roof rack track.
I have two questions:
 
1. What is the best way to dry out the area between the ceiling and the roof? I pulled the light fixtures hoping to get some airflow, but there is Styrofoam insulation in the openings. The ceiling material (vinyl coated hardboard?) is soft in several places and definitely still wet. I have an industrial fan circulating air in the trailer, but not sure if that will do any good for the really wet areas above the ceiling.
 
2. Can the ceiling material, whatever it is be replaced without taking the entire roof apart? I don't want to start taking out screws to get at the roof without really knowing what I'm in for.

Dave,

I really don't have much in the way of answers for you. But.... I've been reading volumes on the PUT and PUX boards trying to learn as much as I can about these ABS roofs, since I have a '00 Coleman Mesa with an ABS roof, myself. So I'll try to share what I've learned to try to give you some guidance.
1 - The roof is manufactured of an inner and outer pre-formed ABS shells with the foam sandwiched between. The three components are glued and pressed together. So, in answer to your question # 2, I don't believe there is a way to take the roof apart without basically destroying it.
2 - If I had to try to dry the thing out, I think I might try to rig up a way to get as much heat built up from the inside (heat rises) to try to drive the water vapor out of wherever it came in from. I don't know if that would work, but considering heat is energy, and by applying energy in this form, you can make water move, especially in it's vapor form. I would think if you can move the PUP indoors (garage?) where you can have a warmer outside temp, you could, perhaps, avoid condensation as the vapor approached the outside skin. I can't think of any other course of action, but then again, I know I'm really thinking outside the box - waayy outside the box. If you can remove the track, that would probably provide a larger area for the moisture to escape from. But, and I'm only guessing here, it's probably glued in to the channel.
 
Something I would consider: since it can be assumed that much of the water that's trapped within the roof layer, perhaps drilling several small holes thru the ABS shell around the bottom edge of the roof, where the roof gasket is attached, will allow gravity to cause the trapped water to pool arond the lowest point. By drilling the holes, you have facilitated some drainage. I think I would place a layer of towling around the top of the camper box, and with the top resting on the towels, the pooled water will 'wick' out to the towels. You might want to experiment with this unorthodox approach with one or two trial holes to see if there's any water drained out. Just remember, water likes to run downhill.
 
The thing is, I'm positive it will take a good long while to get the interior of the roof dried out regardless of the approach you take. On the other hand, none of my ideas may work at all.
 
All that being said, it's probable your best course of action is to wait out a roof replacement. I hope somebody else who really knows, or has a better idea how to address your problem will chime in.
 
I hope this helps. Good luck and keep us posted with what you come up with. I'd be real interested, myself.
 
Steve

[DaveMiller]

Steve,
thanks for the reply and "out of the box" suggestions.  I was afraid the "gap" between the roof and ceiling was filled with foam.  I'll definitely try the heat approach.  Fortunately, the area where my trailer is located gets a good amount of sun. My only concern is the affect the sun will have on keeping the trailer "popped out".  I'd love to put it in my garage, but my shop tools refuse to share the floor space!  

I'm going to have a talk with the dealer and see if I can work something out with them.  The main problem is I have lots of plans for the trailer this summer.  

Thanks again!

[waterdoctor]

Dave
I believe, if your roof is constructed like mine is, there is, in fact, a layer of foam sandwiched between the roof (outer shell) and the ceiling (inner shell) and the whole thing is glued and pressed together. I'm not sure if there are any 'ribs' imbedded within the foam to enhance structural integrety. There should be, however, a steel brace affixed to the inside of the roof structure (ceiling) that is there to support an A/C unit. I have one of those braces on mine, although I don't have A/C.
 
The bottom line is, the roof is a single unit laminated together. Obviously, there is a gap or 2 within the internal layers that has allowed water to not only enter, but to migrate around within the different layers.  :%
 
After sleeping on it, if it was me, I'd try drilling 1 or 2 small holes (1/8") along the very bottom edge (under the roof gasket) in the area you think has the most water intrusion. I might even try lowering the tongue all the way down to allow gravity to help. Also, if you can raise one side of the trailer (blocks, Bal leveler, or perhaps jack stand under the axel?) at the same time, might help to get the water to "pool" at the low corner. The low corner is where I'd drill the drain holes.
 
It's just a thought. My mind works in really weird ways, sometimes. :eyecrazy:
Good luck
 
Steve

[DaveMiller]

Steve,
I'll try a couple of test holes and see if that helps.  I've already got the trailer angled to try to direct the water.  I like your I idea of blocking one side.   Looks like I've got more work to do.

Thanks again!

[waterdoctor]

Dave
Good luck. I sure hope you're able to get that thing dried out pretty quick.
I'm going to be putting Grizzly Grip on my roof in an attempt to stop or hopefully slow the cracking in my roof top. I got started on the prep last night. I'm hoping to be finished with it by Sunday afternoon. I've noticed the cracks are really starting to grow (getting wider and longer) and I'm sure it won't last thru the rest of this camping season without doing something.   :banghead:  I'm not even sure I could get another roof for my PUP, although I haven't checked on that. From what I hear, somewhere around $4K  :eek:, probably higher will get me a new one. I don't have that kind of $$ just laying around, so hopefully this approach will, at least, delay what I consider the inevitable. I think I could probably make a new roof for far less than it would cost to get a new one.

Anyway, keep us posted on your progress.

Steve