First post and a question on fridge

[dlwilliams]

I'm just getting back into PU camping after a long hiatus.  I have a 1990 Starcraft Starmaster that was not used for years.  I needed it last year for a long trip to TX, so I pulled it out of the carport, popped it up and did a little work on it.  The A/C was working (I thought), but turns out it was no match for the TX sun.  I'll be getting that serviced before the next trip in May.  But, here's the question.  The PU has a 2 way Dometic (12V and LP).  First I cannot get it to stay lit, and when I finally got it to stay lit for a while, it didn't seem to cool very much.  After that length of time I figure it is probably toast.  I'll have it looked at when they check the A/C, but I don't intend to put a lot of money into it.  So, here are what I see as my options.  (1) Leave it alone and carry an ice chest.  (2) Remove it and replace with a 110V dorm type fridge.  (3) leave it alone and buy something like a Coleman cooler that uses 12V or AC (advantage there is that it's portable and weighs much less than the dorm type AC fridge).  (4) I could just buy a dorm type fridge and set it on the counter.

I guess the major choice is going to be whether to buy the Coleman rig or the small dorm type fridge.  I'm leaning toward the Coleman but I'm hesitant because I know it will not cool as effeciently as a regular fridge.

Any comments or suggestions?

[mountainrev]

Welcome!

Before you give up on the Dometic, I would give it another try.  It's very common for spiders to clog up the exhaust stack.  Did you try cleaning it out yet?  Also, these fridges take a long time to cool down.  Once you get it lit, give it 24 hours before deciding whether it's working or not.  It will help speed up the cooling process if you start by filling it with cold items rather than trying to cool an empty fridge.

I have a Dometic on my '03 Viking, and sometimes have trouble lighting it, too.  No spiderwebs, just finicky.  But once it's lit, it seems to work well.  So don't throw in the towel just yet!

[AustinBoston]

The PU has a 2 way Dometic (12V and LP).

That would be highly unusual.  Most are either 2-way (120V and propane) or three way (12V, 120V and propane).  It probably costs no more than a few dollars to make a fridge that worsk on 12V also work on 120V.

First I cannot get it to stay lit, and when I finally got it to stay lit for a while, it didn't seem to cool very much.  After that length of time I figure it is probably toast.

How did you determine that it didn't cool very much?

It takes time - plenty of time - for an evaporative fridge to cool.  Even domestic fridges used in homes are supposed to be left running for 24 hours before being adjusted.

Use a thermometer.  Our pop-up fridge doesn't necessarily feel cool, but then we'll find the eggs frozen.

Then if it is shot, consider a replacement 3-way ($$$), a dorm fridge ($$), or an ice chest ($), depending on your camping style and budget.

Austin

[Recumbentman]

dlwillians
Welcome to PUT
on the A/C issue the unit can only do so much with fabric walls. You should consider getting some solar covers for the bunk ends to help keep the heat out and the cold air in. I believe the A/C units are a closed system, so there is not much to do to them other then cleaning the screens and filters.

for the fridge issue, mountainrev gave you good info. I always turn mine on a day ahead of time. and the fridge can only keep items cold to within 40 degrees from the outside air. it will never get as cold as an ice box will. most campers use both. You should do a search here on fridges and/or Dometic and see what has already been said about this problem. because I know it comes up a lot.

[dlwilliams]

Thanks for the quick replies.  On the 2-way, yes it is 12V and LP, no AC on this one.  But it is also 17 years old.  Maybe the newer 2 way are LP and AC.  I wish this one was.  I did search and read a bunch of posts on refridgerators before I posted.  

I'll try to keep it lit again and let it cool for a day or so and use a thermometer as suggested.  As I recall, I was able to keep it lit in my driveway last year, but I didn't leave it on for 24 hours, probably only about 6.  I do remember it getting somewhat cool.  When I got to the campground in TX though, I couldn't keep the darn thing lit.  I finally gave up and just used the ice chest.   I was there for about 2 weeks and pretty much had to buy ice every day.

On the AC - I went with a friend the year before in his pop up, and his AC would get it really, really cool.  Mine was nowhere near as cold as his was.  Mine would get "cool", and was fine at night, but after staying up until 2 or so playing music (this was at a music festival), the sun and heat would drive me out of the bed no later than 9.  I will get an AC that will work before the next trip.

[AustinBoston]

and the fridge can only keep items cold to within 40 degrees from the outside air.

This is wrong.

Electric coolers (such as the 12V Igloo we used to have) can only cool things to 40-45 degrees below ambient, but that is not true of evaporative coolers (all multifuel RV fridges, all propane powered fridges).  Evaporative coolers are capapble of freezing the fridge contents solid on a 90 degree day, which is a good deal better than 45 degrees below ambient.

Austin

[AustinBoston]

I'll try to keep it lit again and let it cool for a day or so and use a thermometer as suggested.  As I recall, I was able to keep it lit in my driveway last year, but I didn't leave it on for 24 hours, probably only about 6.  I do remember it getting somewhat cool.  When I got to the campground in TX though, I couldn't keep the darn thing lit.  

One thing I have heard of is an accumulation of white powder on and around the "burner".  Cleaning this area with a dry toothbrush might help.  Sorry I didn't make this suggestion in my previous post.

Austin

[dlwilliams]

This is wrong.

Electric coolers (such as the 12V Igloo we used to have) can only cool things to 40-45 degrees below ambient, but that is not true of evaporative coolers (all multifuel RV fridges, all propane powered fridges).  Evaporative coolers are capapble of freezing the fridge contents solid on a 90 degree day, which is a good deal better than 45 degrees below ambient.

Austin

That might be what I was thinking about, because I know I looked at the Coleman cooler today and it said it could cool to 40 degrees less than ambient temp.  Maybe I read somewhere else that the Dometic could only cool that much too.  Good to know that it can cool more.  I'm going home to try and keep the thing lit and if I can, I'll let it run all night.  I did check to make sure the chimney was clear.  I'll give it another good visual before lighting it off.

By the way, it's sunny and about 66 degrees right now.  

[gypsy_soul]

Try contacting Dometic to get the manual for your fridge. The burner, most likely, needs to be cleaned.

[dlwilliams]

Try contacting Dometic to get the manual for your fridge. The burner, most likely, needs to be cleaned.

Actually, I still have the owners manual, but not any kind of tech manual.  There's not a lot to the owners manual.  I did get the flame to stay lit, and has been going for about an hour.  I'll let it go until tomorrow night.  I had to keep the "peep hole" cover up for it to stay lit though.  If I put it down, it would burn for a while then sound like the wind was blowing and then go out.  I suspect there is a blockage somewhere.  I'll need to examine the air intake and flue again most likely.

[gypsy_soul]

here is a sample of the service part of a dometic manual:
3. PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
To keep your Dometic refrigerator operating efficiently
and safely, periodic inspection and cleaning of several
components once or twice a year is recommended.
A. It is important to keep the area at the back of the
refrigerator clean. Check the lower vent, upper vent
and area between these openings for any obstructions
such as bird/insect nests, spider webs, etc.
Clean the coils on the back of the refrigerator. Use a
soft bristled brush to dust off the coils.
It is important to keep the refrigerator area free from
combustible material, gasoline and other flammable
vapors or liquids.
NOTE: The following maintenance is required once or
twice a year, but should only be done by a qualified serviceman
who is familiar with LP gas systems and refrigerators.
B. Check all connections in the LP gas system (at the
back of the refrigerator) for gas leaks. The LP gas
supply must be turned on. Apply a non-corrosive
bubble solution to all LP gas connections.
The appearance of bubbles indicates a leak and
should be repaired immediately by a QUALIFIED
SERVICEMAN WHO IS FAMILIAR WITH GAS SYSTEM
AND REFRIGERATORS.
DO NOT use a flame to check for gas leaks.
C. Check the AMES control system by connecting/disconnecting
120 volt AC power, start/stop the engine,
etc. Compare the operation with the operation described
in section Operating Instructions.
D. The LP gas pressure should be checked and the main
regulator readjusted if pressure is incorrect. The correct
operating pressure is 11 inches of water column.
The correct place to take the LP gas pressure is at
the test port just ahead of the burner jet. (See FIG. 12).
E. Inspect the flue baffle. It should be reasonably clean
and free of soot. Heavy soot formation indicates improper
functioning of the burner. The flue and burner
both require cleaning in the following manner:
1. Unplug the refrigerator power cord from the 120 volt
AC outlet. (See FIG. 11).
2. Disconnect or shut off the 12 volt DC power to the
refrigerator.
3. Turn manual shutoff valve to OFF. (See FIG. 1 & 12).
4. Remove cover from the burner housing. (See fig. 1).
5. Disconnect the wire from the high voltage electrode.
6. Remove the burner mounting screw and remove the
burner assembly. (See FIG. 12).
7. Remove the wire and flue baffle from the top of flue
tube. Clean the flue from the top using a flue brush.
Blowing compressed air into the flue will not properly
clean soot and scale out of the flue tube. Replace
the flue baffle.
8. Clean burner tube with a brush. Blow out burner with
compressed air.
9. Before removing burner jet, clean burner area of soot
and scale that fell out of flue tube. Remove the burner
jet. Soak the jet in wood alcohol and blow it out with
compressed air. Reinstall and tighten burner jet.
NOTE: The color of the flame shall be clear blue over
the slots of the burner. (See FIG. 13).
10. Reinstall burner, being careful that the end of the
burner fits into the slot on the burner bracket. Check
to make sure slots are centered under the flue tube
and the thermocouple is positioned properly (tip of
thermocouple extends over two slots of burner).
11. Be sure to reconnect the wire to high voltage electrode.
Check the electrode for proper location and
gap. (See FIG. 14).
DO NOT use a wire or pin when cleaning the burner
jet as damage can occur to the precision opening.
This can cause damage to the refrigerator or create
a fire hazard.

[dlwilliams]

So I checked this morning and the flame is still burning.  It's pretty cold inside the fridge, with a little "frost" in the freezer.  I put some water in the tray to see if it will freeze by tonight.  Also looked again in the manual and there actually is a little section on maintenance, so i will probably take it apart and clean it this weekend.  Maybe there is life in it yet.  If I can just get it to stay lit without having to keep the flame inspection cover open.  Maybe after I clean it good.

[AustinBoston]

That might be what I was thinking about, because I know I looked at the Coleman cooler today and it said it could cool to 40 degrees less than ambient temp.  Maybe I read somewhere else that the Dometic could only cool that much too.  Good to know that it can cool more.  I'm going home to try and keep the thing lit and if I can, I'll let it run all night.  I did check to make sure the chimney was clear.  I'll give it another good visual before lighting it off.

I probably should have said that even with the evaporative fridges there is a limit; even going full blast, it's not going to freeze anything when it's over 100

[dlwilliams]

And we're expecting another 18-20 inches of sn*w in the next 48 hours.

Austin

Well, it's still nice here, but T-storms tomorrow.  I am hoping I can get the PUP buttoned back up tonight.  

Speaking of snow, my daughter lives at Ft. Drum, NY, just outside of Watertown.  They have about 6 feet of snow.  This is the first winter there, and she doesn't like it too much.  She's a runner, and it's hard to run with that much snow on the ground.

[AustinBoston]

Well, it's still nice here, but T-storms tomorrow.  I am hoping I can get the PUP buttoned back up tonight.  

Speaking of snow, my daughter lives at Ft. Drum, NY, just outside of Watertown.  They have about 6 feet of snow.  This is the first winter there, and she doesn't like it too much.  She's a runner, and it's hard to run with that much snow on the ground.

If she doesn't like snow, she'll need to see if she can get a different assignment.  That area always gets snow (although 6 feet might be a wee bit more than usual).

Austin